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November 2005

Christkindlmarkt Mania


Love ’em or hate ’em, there’s no escaping the good ole’ German Christmas market. So, for those of you who take the “seen one, seen them all” approach, we’ve tried our best to come up with a slightly alternative guide to surviving (and possibly enjoying) the Christkindlmarkt season, both in and around Munich:

Spare a thought for history—whether you’re impressed by the wares on offer or not, it’s still pretty astounding to consider that the Christkindlmarkt tradition in Munich began in the 14th century. Discover more about the fascinating background by taking a free guided tour around the Marienplatz market (November 25–December 24). These run every Sunday, starting at 4 pm, from the Marienplatz Christmas tree.

Do your bit for the environment—many of the food stalls now offer organic food. Hunt ’em out, instead of settling for any old sausage!

Christmas is for kids—so help yours make the most of it by taking part in a free Christmas baking session in the Ratstrinkstube in the Rathaus. Workshops run daily until December 17 from 2:30 pm to 4 pm and from 4:30 pm to 6 pm.

Go decoration shopping—while the various decorations on offer may be nothing special to those of us who see them year in, year out, relatives abroad may not be so familiar with them. How about popping a traditional straw star into each of your Christmas cards for friends to hang on their trees?

And, while you’re at it, why not have your cards delivered by the Christ Child himself? All mail dropped at the Christkindl post office (at the gateway to the Prunkhof in the Rathaus) will be given a special Christkindl stamp. The service promises to deliver to destinations around the world in time for the big day. Drop your mail in any other box around the Rathaus, and it’ll be given a special Christmas market stamp.

Music, sweet music—there’s nothing like a few alpine sounds to conjur up a Christmassy feeling, even in the most hardened old Ebenezer Scrooges out there. Each day, at 5:30 pm, various bands will perform traditional music from the Rathaus balcony.

Stay warm—and enjoy the markets from the inside of a tram. For just € 1 per person (kids are free) the Christkindltram will take passengers on a 30-minute tour through town, during which they can enjoy Christmas music, Glühwein and cookies. The tram leaves Sendlinger Tor every half hour, starting at 3:30 pm on weekdays and 11 am on weekends. The last tram leaves at 7 pm on weekdays and 7:30 pm at weekends.

Avoid the crowds—if the festive throng on Marienplatz is simply too much, then why not check out the markets around the city? We particularly like the one at the Chinesischer Turm (November 26–December 23), which, when it’s covered with snow, is enough to soften even the hardest of cynics. It’s the sort of thing Cliff Richard Christmas hits are made of…

Those who can’t resist crafty stuff should check out the market in Schwabing (November 27–December 24), which, in keeping with the district’s roots, has a slightly more arty feel about it than your average Christmas market.

Possibly the most romantic Christmas market experience is a trip to the Fraueninsel on Chiemsee. Not only do you have the snow-covered Alps looming in the background, but you also have to take a boat to reach the island in the first place. The market runs from November 25 to 27 and from December 2 to 4. For more details, see www.christkindlmarkt-fraueninsel.de.

For those who love a good nativity scene, check out the Christmas offerings in Landshut (November 26–December 23). As well as visiting a cute market, visitors can go on a “Krippentour” through churches, monasteries and shops, spotting nativity scenes, some of which date back 300 years.

Or head to Dachau (November 25–December 23)—home to Bavaria’s biggest advent calendar. Each day, there’s a different prize to win.

And, if all else fails—while the rest of the family are mulling round Marienplatz, grab yourself a bag of chestnuts and sneak into the Augustiner in Neuhauserstrasse for a cool beer. It works wonders for the spirit… Full details of all Munich Christmas markets and their opening times can be found at www.muenchen.de.


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