Bars and Clubs in the Kunstpark Ost, in Munich.
Situated in what was once the Pfanni potato processing plant, behind the Ostbahnhof, Kunstpark Ost is a beacon in the midst of gray industrial gloom. The sprawling factory surroundings are an unlikely setting for the hippest cultural center in Munich, which now hosts over 200,000 people a month at its eight clubs and seven bars/restaurants. The functional industrial architecture and jumbled conglomeration of buildings is unattractive at first glance, but after dark it comes alive with light and pulsating music. At night Kunstpark Ost (KPO) becomes the ultimate party zone. On any given weekend, thousands of locals and out-of-towners flock to KPO to party into the morning hours. It features a variety of nightlife venues - from the pumping techno beats of the Ultraschall to the wild Brazilian tunes of the Bongo Bar - accentuated by the beer tent oom-pah-pahs of Wies'n World, Kunstpark's year-round mini-Oktoberfest. The best way to experience this kaleidoscope of tastes, music and people is to begin your evening with a visit to the Werkbar. For a long time this bar was the Kunstpark's best-kept secret, accessible only after a six-story stair climb. One good way to catch your breath after the arduous ascent is to check out the ceiling: large paper-mache starfish float about, adding a surreal touch to this loftiest of KPO bars. Housed in a large studio-like room, the Werkbar has an expansive view over the Kunstpark. To the east, the trains' tail lights glow a vibrant red as they pull in and out of the Ostbahnhof. There's no cover charge, the beer is cheap and they serve the Kunstpark's best Caipirinhas, rum-and-lime cocktails. If you're in search of hard-core dancing, then the Ultraschall might be the place for you. Gyrating mirrors and dark tunnels lit by a thousand staccato strobe flashes, totally distort your sense of time and place, giving you the feeling of passing through a time warp and landing on the set of a science fiction movie. Ultraschall prerequisites are a taste for thumping techno beats and an appreciation of raves. The cover charge is DM 15 on Fridays and Saturdays. Venturing past both Babylon and Incognito, where tunes of the '70s and '80s are the music of choice, you'll encounter a little red tent with a big burly bouncer lurking inside, concealing the entrance to the Milch Bar. If you make it past the close scrutiny, then fun is guaranteed. The cover charge is DM 7. And, there is truth to the rumor that the most beautiful KPO party people frequent the Milch Bar. Just a few steps away, the Bongo Bar's '20s Cotton Club interior is a must-see. Salsa, tango and Caribbean beats whip the crowd into a shimmy frenzy that would put the "Dirty Dancing" cast to shame. Chairs and tables often fall victim to sudden outbursts of passionate dancing - on our night there, a girl named Julianne jumped onto the stage and shouted, "It's so much fun here. Always!" The Bongo Bar also features cabaret and dance shows true to the roaring '20s style; the cover charge is DM 10. When dawn breaks, the park resumes its button-down existence. It is home to lawyers' offices and artists' studios, a small kindergarten, as well as antique dealers, a movie theater and weekend flea market, open on Fridays and Saturdays. Hours spent fondling dishes, measuring antique picture frames to see if they will accommodate your favorite photos or digging through vintage clothing can yield that one-of-a-kind item that you've been searching for. "A good market should have tables that are crammed full. You need patience and a love of flea marketing to comb over everything for the grand prize," says Carol, a veteran antiques buyer and first-time visitor to the Kunstpark. Space is available outdoors for anyone to set up a table of goods for DM 22; the indoor halls are filled with regular vendors offering everything from period furniture to books and toys. For athletic types, Kunstpark Ost houses its own skate park, called Skate 'n' Fun, an indoor area where skateboarders and skaters can hone their skills on a series of ramps and obstacles. The entrance fee is DM 6.50 for kids and DM 8 for adults; you can rent skates and protective gear by the hour. A new addition to the sports facilities at KPO is Heaven's Gate, boasting the highest indoor climbing wall in Germany. Whether you're a novice or a seasoned professional, you can take climbing classes, at reasonable prices; they also offer kids' classes. Creative souls feel at home in KPO's art gallery. Kunstpark Forum exhibits art produced mostly by local artists in their Kunstpark studios. It's impossible to predict what kind of art awaits visitors on any given day as exhibitions are scheduled spontaneously, depending on the whims and inspirations of the artists. It can be as refreshing for some as it is indigestible for others, but gives local artists a unique venue for new work. The Forum's ample 1,200 square meter space is also available to rent for corporate events and private parties. This cultural oasis in an industrial desert did not materialize on its own. The idea for Kunstpark Ost originated in 1996, when the Hallenkultur began looking for a new home. Munich's previous mass party zone - utilizing Riem's old airport hangars as huge bars, clubs and restaurants - closed down when construction began on the city's new Messe, trade fair center. The closure of the Riem venues meant the loss of a nocturnal way of life, especially for Munich's under-30 crowd. It was then that Wolfgang Nöth and Gabi Scheffel, two of Munich's most experienced party organizers, combed the city for possible venues to replace Riem. They succeeded by leasing 40,000 square meters of factory space, situated directly behind the Ostbahnhof in the heart of Munich's east side. Club owners and dance fanatics, designers and independent artists all caught Kunstpark fever. Now heading into its second year, Kunstpark Ost proves that downtown is not the only place to get down. The east side is alive with entertainment for all. "What I find so good about the KPO is that there's so much to choose from," says Nicki, a girl we met in front of the Kraftwerk, KPO's Saturday night answer to trendy P1. "But the drinks are too expensive!" shouts her friend, Sandra. Well, you can't please everyone.