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March 2001

Peas and Queues

Munich lines up for great vegetarian cuisine

Das Gollier
Gollierstrasse 83
Tel. (089) 50 16 73
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 12-15 and 17-24; Sat. 17-24; Sun. 10-24

Walls textured with layers of paint, blossoming flower buds in the windows and genuinely friendly service make you feel at home in this superb vegetarian restaurant. Each table is adorned with a single rose in a recycled bottle — proof that protecting the environment is a top priority of Das Gollier proprietor Ignaz Schmid. A wholesome selection of meatless melodies, all of which are organic, highlight the menu here.

The garlic bread starter (DM 4.50) is a tasty snack — pungent garlic and subtle parsley atop oblong slices of wheat bread. A more creative introduction is the gebratene Champignons und Ingwer (fried mushrooms and ginger, DM 11). Internationally influenced entrées range from pizzas (DM 14.50-DM 16.50), on white or whole wheat dough, to crêpes with such toppings as broccoli, feta, tomatoes, spinach and Gorgonzola. The house specialty, Gemüsepfännchen, which can be ordered in 18 variations, is served steaming hot in blackened pans, straight out of a brick oven. Topped with a light cream sauce, the i>Grünkernpfännchen (DM 17.50), with broccoli and spinach, is kissed by the sweetness of ripe mango. The Polentapfännchen 17.50) with peas, chestnuts and mushrooms is topped with a bubbling layer of creamy Gorgonzola. Pfannenfrom the Wok) based on Italian, Greek, Indian and Japanese-inspired dishes round off Das Gollier’s diverse main course offerings. Most exotic is the Pfanne mit Reis, with its combination of mango, dates, zucchini, broccoli and tofu in a sweet and sour curry sauce (DM 21.50). For those who prefer less elaborate dishes, the savory Kartoffelpfanne (DM 19), potatoes with al denté broccoli, mushrooms and leeks covered with a warm, buttery and lightly seasoned sauce, is pure comfort food. A small salad, from a bursting vegetable bar, comes with all entrées. Desserts include ice cream with several toppings (DM 9) and crêpes (DM 9.50-DM 12) with chocolate mousse or fresh fruit and whipped cream. Organic beer, wine and fresh juice concoctions wet the thirsty vegetarian’s whistle.

On Sundays and holidays a brunch is offered at DM 16.80 per adult, DM 10 per child between the ages of six and twelve and DM 6 for those between three and five. The lunch buffet, Monday to Friday from 11:30 to 14:30, includes the salad bar, three different warm dishes, which change daily, two soups and a selection of desserts.
FOOD 9, SERVICE 8, ATMOSPHERE 7

Prinz Myshkin
Hackenstr. 2
Tel. (089) 26 55 96
Hours: Daily 11-24

Was Dostoyevsky a vegetarian? This question may interest only eccentric fans of the author. But every Münchner interested in vegetarian cuisine must be familiar with Prinz Myshkin, not only the name of the main character in Dostoyevsky’s novel The Idiot but also that of an exceptional vegetarian restaurant in Munich.

The cavernous downtown restaurant’s walls are decorated with exotic tapestries, created by Bangkok artist Somyot Hananntasuk. Myshkin’s menu is as esoteric as its décor — the first page sports a philosophical text on trees and friendship. It also informs guests that all ingredients used by house chefs are organic, and that all dishes without eggs and milk are marked with a star for Vegans.

The ensuing pages take you on a journey through a variety of international cooking styles — Indian, Mexican, Italian, Thai — unmistakable proof that no meat is necessary for a gourmet dinner. The Gemischter Vorspeisenteller (mixed starter plate, DM 15.50) is a splash of color: dried tomatoes, baked beans, a spicy slice of eggplant, breaded zucchini and garlic yogurt. Turkish mashed chickpeas, or hummus, a piece of potato-cake and marinated kohlrabi can be added to this Italian starter. Especially to be recommended among the various soups is the curry-carrot-orange soup (DM 7.50). The entrées are such beautiful works of art that it is hard to lay a destructive fork on them. Ricotta balls with cashew nuts, carrots and peas doused in a curry sauce, fresh tomato slices and basmati rice are served together and go by the evocative name of Malai Kafta (DM 23.50). Petite side dishes (carrots and broccoli in butter and potato gratin) flank such creamy dishes as Tofu Stroganoff (DM 24.50). Marinated tofu squares in a delectable Burgundy cream sauce laced with juniper, laurel, pepper and mushrooms delight.

A variety of pizzas (DM 13.50-DM 19.50) are an exciting variation of Italian originals, the dough as thin as parchment paper and covered with individually chosen vegetables. Finally, the Prinz Myshkin Dessert (DM 14.50) is a bursting combo platter of honey-sweetened fruit salad and a red-berry purée, chestnuts on ripe dates, fresh fruit sauce and chocolate, nut and cream layer cake. The Prinz Myshkin restaurant is a must for all vegetarians but even meat-eaters find this restaurant to be a stimulating alternative. For a culinary preview, see Prinz Myshkin's beautifully designed Web site at www.prinzmyshkin.com.
FOOD 9, SERVICE 8, ATMOSPHERE 7


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