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July 2001

Topless Restaurants

Munich's cafes offer everything under the sun

Fünf Höfe
Theatinerstrasse 8
Tel. (089) 20 80 21 31
Mon.–Sat. 9 am–10 pm
The outdoor courtyard of the glass-enclosed È tricaffè—housed in the heart of Munich’s new, noble shopping mall, Fünf Höfe—offers a rather meditative atmosphere. Here, the architectural concept is a European version of a Japanese zen garden: guests enter the café through a small gate, which is flanked by walls from which water gently trickles. The café floor is lined with tiny pebbles, and two trees are planted in the middle of the seating area. By contrast, the café’s cuisine cannot compete with its architecture. A surprisingly limited menu will satiate only those in search of a snack. The common variations of Tramezzini (DM 4) and other such Italian sandwich varieties as Corretto with ham and brie (DM 5.50) or a dull combination of tomatoes, mozzarella and peppers on Focacchia bread (DM 7) reflect the new sandwich trend that recently hit Munich. Larger meals are represented by one “pasta of the day” (DM 13.50), several Insalatas (DM 11.50–DM 16.50) and minestrone soup (DM 7). The house Nizza salad (DM 14.50) is a cut above those of the city’s pizza joints with the more exciting addition of green olives and slices of artichoke heart. È tricaffè’s heaping cold vegetable platter (DM 13.50) is delightful. Tomatoes and mozzarella form the centerpiece of five different flavorful vegetable concoctions: caper-stuffed sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, sweet onions, marinated eggplant cubes, a mushroom and yellow zucchini medley and sliced kohlrabi. If the exceptionally busy waiters ever find the time to take your dessert order, try the café’s smooth tiramisu (DM 6). Don’t fall for the Torta di Frutta (DM 5.50). Virtually devoid of fruit, this small whipped cream and gelatin tart deceptively takes its name from a scant strawberry-slice garnish. Though è tricaffè may not be one of Munich’s top cafés, its atmosphere more than makes up for its culinary shortcomings. FOOD 6, SERVICE 6, ATMOSPHERE 10

Königinstr. 34
Tel. (089) 33 34 02
Daily 9 am–1 pm
The Café Reitschule has the bad reputation of being a magnet for Munich’s arrogant, yuppie crowd. Though that is, to a certain degree, true, wary diners may wish to overlook the “cell-phone crowd” and enjoy the café’s outstanding menu and veranda seating. Be it for breakfast, a light lunch or a hearty dinner, the Reitschule’s offerings are more than adequate. Das Frühstück (The Breakfast) includes freshly baked croissants (DM 2.90), quark with fruit (DM 7.50) and a selection of platters. The Reitschule’s American breakfast (DM 9.90) comprises thick slices of french toast, real (!) maple syrup and is accompanied by apple and pear “fans” atop watermelon and honeydew melon, ripe pineapple chunks and grapefruit sections. A guest later on in the day will find a diverse menu that ranges from fine Italian cuisine to first-rate burgers. Freshly made gnocchi are the base of a filling stew (DM 17.90). Served in a rich tomato “aurora sauce,” the potato dumplings are topped with melted mozzarella and basil. House salads (DM 7.90–DM 20.90) attest to the chef’s inventiveness. Arugula and lamb’s lettuce are the basis of this healthy treat. Fried mushrooms, roasted sunflower seeds, a nut oil-sherry dressing and grated Parmesan cheese top off the truly culinary jewel. Though the pizzas (DM 10.50–DM 15.50) don’t compete with authentic Italian ones, the tasty pies should not be missed. Desserts (DM 8.50–DM 10.50) are always as laudable as the Reitschule’s entrées. Great food and the café’s fast, friendly and efficient staff—what yuppies? FOOD 10, SERVICE 10, ATMOSPHERE 8 <<<

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