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December 2002

Season's Eatings

Celebrate the holidays by eating out

The festive season is upon us. At Munich's Christmas markets the scent of mulled wine and caramelized almonds permeates the air while the notion of seasonal goodwill is put to the test as harassed shoppers search for perfect presents and elusive ingredients. For anyone looking to avoid the strain of preparing a holiday meal, a number of restaurants around Munich are willing to do the dirty work for you. The luxurious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten (Maximilianstrasse 17; Tel. [089] 21 25 22 00) will be serving a variety of special several-course meals all month (€ 30–€ 198) and the Michelin-starred Hotel Königshof (Karlsplatz 25; Tel. [089] 55 13 60) will be offering light meals on December 24 and 25. Ring in the new year over a formal six-course gourmet meal (€ 55) at the Marriott Hotel’s California Grill or enjoy a more casual evening at the hotel's Champions Sportsbar (both at Berlinerstrasse 93; Tel. [089] 36 00 20). And if you are looking for a full turkey dinner Edison and Co. (Schulstrasse/corner Schlörstrasse; Tel. [089] 13 03 93 93) will come up trumps. While most small restaurants are closed on Christmas Eve and Day, many—including those reviewed below—provide perfect settings for a special holiday meal. Finally, if you're new to Munich or alone this holiday season, some social and religious groups organize dinners, too. Pastor Steve Henderson of the Munich International Community Church extends a warm welcome to anyone interested in attending his group's Christmas Day dinner. For more information call (08141) 88 91 86.

The Victorian House
Frauenstrasse 14
Tel. (089) 25 54 69 47
Open daily 9:30 am–11 pm

Modeled on a traditional English townhouse, the Victorian House provides respite to the hungry and the homesick. Clearly benefiting from its proximity to the Viktualienmarkt, the restaurant focuses on fresh seasonal ingredients. Salads are abundant and the spicy cream of pumpkin soup (€ 4.90), flavored with a touch of curry, captures the essence of the season. Main courses include fish, seafood and hearty meat dishes, such as venison casserole cooked with apricots, plums and chestnuts in red wine (€ 17.80). The vegetarian is also catered to and the helpful staff makes every effort to accommodate special dietary needs. Comfort is key here and the food is good with only minor shortcomings. The wild mushroom risotto (€ 12.50), studded with fresh chanterelle mushrooms and garnished with shaved Parmesan, for example, is satisfying but made with ordinary long grain rice, which lacks the characteristic creaminess of arborio rice. For the holidays the Victorian House offers traditional English roast turkey, mincemeat pies and Christmas pudding. The Saturday “After Shopping Lunch” of pork chops in Scottish whiskey sauce (€ 8.20) is served from 11 am to 2 pm and provides holiday shoppers with a welcome break from the crowds. Classic English tea with homemade scones, strawberry marmalade and clotted cream (€ 11) is served daily. The combination of comforting food, friendly service and a cozy atmosphere succeeds in bringing a slice of English life to Munich. Food 8, Service 10, Atmosphere 9

Pazzo Trattoria Volkartstrasse 70
Tel. (089) 55 54 47
Open Tues.–Fri. and Sun. 11:30 am–2:30 pm, 5:30 pm–11:30 pm;
Sat. 5:30 pm–11:30 pm.
Closed Mondays

Tucked away on a quiet residential street in Neuhausen, Pazzo (the Italian word for “crazy”) first grabs your attention with its sleek, backlit bar stylishly laden with graceful glasses and colorful liqueur bottles. Once inside, you are enveloped by the warmth of the ochre walls, dark woodwork and charming owner. She invariably offers you an aperitif (€ 6) and how could you say “No,” when it's made with fresh oranges from Sicily? The menu comprises excellent Italian pasta, pizza and main dishes, but the weekly specials menu usually looks too good to ignore. The large antipasti platter (€ 9.50) contains succulent grilled eggplant, zucchini, oyster mushrooms, roasted peppers and prosciutto. Homemade pasta dishes might include spinach cannelloni filled with ricotta and fresh spinach (€ 7.50), or meat-filled tortelloni with tomato and goat’s cheese (€ 7.50). The extraordinary wine list is compact but includes some of Italy's top producers, such as Friuli's Masi. Classic tiramisú and panna cotta are dessert standards that manage, nonetheless, to impress, but the weekly special—possibly German Apfelküchl or vanilla ice cream with warm raspberries (€ 4.50)—is always worth considering. The restaurant's smooth and impeccable service delivers some of Munich's best Italian food at very reasonable prices. After just one visit you're sure to go crazy for Pazzo.
Food 10, Service 10, Atmosphere 10
Please note: since this review was written the management has changed


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