When is a restaurant not a restaurant?
It’s no secret that Munich’s gastro scene is somewhat volatile. Bars come and go, and those that do survive are up against some stiff competition. Which could explain why more has suddenly become more when it comes to culinary concepts. Instead of focusing on one thing, an increasing number of bars and restaurants are promising to be all things to everyone—the perfect place for breakfast, lunch, coffee and dinner. We checked out three of the latest additions to the scene…
Is there anything Eatery can’t do? It opens at 7 am (in time to catch those business breakfasters), and closes whenever the last evening diners go home. In between, you can call in for brunch, lunch, an after-work party or even a cookery course. And, if that’s not enough, there’s also a delivery service. Phew. But what about the goods on offer? Are they exciting enough that you’re going to want them round-the-clock?
Let’s start with the menu. I know you should never judge a book by its cover, but you can always judge a restaurant by its menu. Eatery’s, I have to say, is encouraging. It’s not too long—I think I’ve mentioned before my distrust of any restaurants that claim to be able to offer dozens and dozens of ambitious dishes—it changes every week or two, and it’s creative and playful, while still remaining true to the classic combinations. Take the beef carpaccio, for example. The combo of rare filet, seared at the edges, with rocket and parmesan is so good, it’s best left intact: a fact that Eatery’s chefs seem to have understood. All they play around with is the way they plate it up to add a certain “ooh!” factor when the dish is served.
Which takes us on to the next point—presentation. And it’s here where Eatery comes in to its own. Helped by some creatively shaped crockery, the dishes are a treat for the eye. As my husband remarked, it’s almost as if you’re getting top-notch restaurant presentation for bistro prices. Indeed, the only thing on the menu for more than € 15 (most mains are less than € 10) is the Russian baked potato for € 111.11. Told you it was playful—the humble spud is stuffed with 50 g of caviar and served with an entire bottle of vodka.
And so to the most important factor—the food itself. I certainly had no complaints. The carpaccio was beautiful—done to perfection and not too oily, as carpaccios can be. The chicken, stuffed with spinach on a bed of tagliatelle in an herb sauce was tasty and tender. I’d feared a heavy creamy sauce, but no—it was more like a light vinaigrette. Come dessert, I was pretty full. But, all in the name of duty, I forced myself to attempt “chocolate and cherries”—a glass of hot chocolate pudding, with seven marinated cherries. Very girly, but very good.
All in all, I’d not hesitate to recommend it. Tucked behind the Sparkasse at Heimeranstrasse 39, Eatery is not easy to find but, whether you’re after a light bite or a major feast, it’s definitely worth the hunt.
And so on to Bon Valeur. Conveniently located on the corner of Josephspitalstrasse, at Sonnenstrasse 17, this has a very limited, daily-changing menu of about eight dishes, all of which, however, would suffice for either brunch, lunch or dinner. Add to that a range of coffee and tea, and you’ve got another all-rounder.
Bon Valeur, however, has picked one key concept, in an attempt to appeal to the increasingly health-conscious Münchner: you are what you eat. Yes, it’s the sort of food that feels as if it’s doing your body a favor. Indeed, a chickpea and ratatouille salad with goat’s cheese left me almost bouncing with goodness. The flavors were distinctive and the textures interesting—the only downside being the fact that I paid nearly € 7 for it, and it came with one lonely, thin slice of baguette on a side plate. Those who are serious about the whole “goodness” thing can be even more virtuous and sip freshly pressed carrot and apple juice. I, on the other hand, prefer grape—and was well catered to with a selection of mainly Italian wines.
For me, this is the ideal place for a healthy lunch or a post-shopping drink. As for a night out, well, it seemed a bit too wholesome for its own good!
And, while we’re on soul food—don’t miss Selig, in the Glockenbachviertel. Hunt for this place on the Internet, and you’re likely to come across a number of gay listings sites. But don’t let that put you off. The crowd tends to be mixed for the best part of the day—and, as the bar opens at 7 am and closes at 3 am, there’s certainly a lot of day to be had! Yes, this is another true all-rounder, transforming itself from a casual breakfast, lunch and coffee bar into a cool bistro / club when the sun goes down. There’s a limited menu of reasonably priced, feel-good food. Nothing too fancy, but the sort of stuff that gives you that laid-back, contented feeling. While Selig (Hans-Sachs-Strasse 3) deals with the stomach quite nicely, it also has a few treats in store for the eyes. Not only is this a great spot for some very colorful people-watching, but it also runs occasional art exhibitions.
So what’s the verdict? Is it possible for a bar to be “niche-less” and still succeed, or does the “everything for everyone” approach dilute the appeal? With these three, certainly, the conceptless concept seems to work a treat. Only time will tell if they’re in it for the long haul.
