In need of some dolce vita? Italy’s greatest undiscovered region is on your doorstep
A four-hour drive from Munich and you could be in Frankfurt. Or, you could be sitting on a sunny piazza in Udine, Italy, supping an aperitif and listening to jazz. Take your pick. But next time you’re planning a weekend break, instead of looking north, remember that the land of dolce vita is within far easier reach. For starters, once you’ve conquered the hour-long drive to Salzburg, you’re free of German Autobahns. Cross the Austrian border, and the pace of the roads slows, meaning you can cruise through some amazing scenery at your leisure. (Those who’ve headed north, meanwhile, will probably be around Stuttgart at this point, which has to be one of the country’s biggest permanent traffic nightmares.) But I digress… With the Alps crossed, you’ll find yourself in the region of Friuli, an area bypassed by most travelers heading straight for the tourist biggies of Florence, Verona, Rome or the ferries to Sardinia. With these being too far away for a weekend break, why not take the plunge, turn off the freeway, grab your Italian dictionary (few people speak anything but the local lingo) and discover the gems of a region untainted by tourists?
First stop: Udine. This pretty little town is about as far south of the Alps as Munich is north. To the east of it is the Collio wine region. Though this may not have a huge international reputation, owing to the fact that its yields are relatively low, connoisseurs have credited Collio with producing some of Italy’s finest whites. And to the west is the picturesque town of San Daniele, whose cured ham is considered to be on a par with that from Parma. With such gourmet delights on either side, it’s hardly surprising that Udine is buzzing—its streets are filled with wine bars and restaurants. Many bars have set up outdoor counters, which, come l’oro dell’aperitif at 6 pm, come alive with people enjoying a glass of local wine and a plate of the silky, San Daniele prosciutto. It’s only when you visit somewhere like Udine that you realize how much you’re being overcharged in Munich and elsewhere for food and drink. We paid just 80 cents for a glass of the local wine and € 1 for some bread and ham to go with it. And it’s seriously good stuff. No wonder these people are so happy! For those who can’t get enough of the gourmet delights on offer and want to re-create the whole thing back home, be sure to head to the Pastificio Artigianato di Stefano de Luisa (Via Poscolle 16), which, as well as the usual hams and cheeses, stocks 42 different sorts of dried pasta and 35 fresh. Flavors are a bit wacky—they include coconut, kiwi, coffee and rose petal—but it’s certainly an experience. For a wine to match, check out La Casa del Vino (Via Poscolle 6), which represents 1,200 local growers and has information about all the region’s wines. Tempting as it was, we couldn’t spend all day eating and drinking (though, believe me, we tried!). So what else is there to do? The town itself has some of the most impressive Venetian-style architecture outside Venice, and some great shops, where you’ll find the same names you know from home, but at a fraction of the price. Just one word of warning—the fact that Udine is a relatively tourist-free zone does have its downside, namely that the shops remain closed for around three hours each afternoon. Get there early in the morning, or wait until after 3:30 pm before you hit the town!
Once you’ve seen Udine, there’s plenty to be explored in the surrounding area. Food and drink lovers may like to concentrate on the nearby Collio wine area, which is centered on the small town of Cormons. Although not a huge draw in itself, Cormons is home to what is widely thought of as Italy’s best restaurant—the Trattoria al Giardinetto (Via Matteotti 54, Tel. 0039 0481 60 25 79). The town also boasts a great wine and jazz bar, Jazz & Wine, where it won’t be long before you find yourself being bought drinks by the extremely friendly locals, and an enoteca, where you can sample wines from hundreds of local growers (Piazza XXIV Maggio 21). Make a note of your favorites, then drive out to the wineries themselves, most of which are within a 15-km radius, to experience some more great Friulian hospitality. For those more accustomed to wine-tasting in Burgundy or Bordeaux, this will be an eye-opener. Unlike in France, where arrogance prevails and you don’t stand a chance of getting a sniff of grapes unless you’re a major buyer, Friulians are happy to share their passion for their wine with everyone. We turned up unannounced at Schiopetto, for example, which regularly wins the highest accolades from the prestigious guide Gambero Rosso, and were given a two-hour tour and tasting by the winemaker himself.
One place you shouldn’t miss is La Boatina, a wine estate with restaurant and rooms just outside Cormons (Via Corona 62, Tel. 0039 0481 604 45-639 914). The menu here is a wonder in itself. There are no warm dishes, just 250 different sorts of cheese and ham, and 10 types of chocolate. With no idea where to start, we let the boss simply bring on one course after the next—and enjoyed a five-course cheese and ham feast, washed down with wines from the estate. From local smoked ricotta with peach mustard and ricotta with chocolate and cinnamon to selections of local hams and pancettas, finishing with chunks of delectable chocolate from across Europe, this was heaven on a plate. Take a room (from € 70 per night, including a breakfast of fresh local produce) and make it a night to remember.
For those for whom a holiday is not a holiday without the sea, you’re in luck, too. The Friulian coast is the closest to Munich, and well worth a visit. Perhaps the most attractive spot is Grado—an island, some 50 km along the coast from the Slovenian border, connected to the mainland by a causeway. Although Germans have discovered this place, it remains fairly untouristy, bar a few tacky pizzerias and a train that chugs around ringing its bell each evening. On the whole, though, Grado is still a thriving fishing community, where locals outnumber visitors. It’s not uncommon to stumble across a little bar at the port, or on one of the islands in the Laguna, and find it alive with the sound of drunken seamen singing and playing Italian shanties. The best way to get a feel for the place is to hire a motorboat (from € 45 for half a day, for three people, no sailing license required) and explore the islands. One word of warning (and I speak from experience!)—the waters aren’t deep, so make sure you stick to the marked channels if you don’t want to end up pushing yourself off a sandbank. If you’ve time for a stop, be sure to call in at Ai Ciodi at Porto d’Anfora, where the aforementioned singing sailors regularly gather for a bit of a jam session, Italian style, and where you can enjoy a fresh fish, thrown on the grill as you listen. Don’t be shy to join in—as soon as they realized there were Brits among them, they piped up with “Yellow Submarine” and had us all singing along!
Those after some simple sunbathing, be warned: as with most resorts in Italy, a beach mafia rules the sand. Expect to pay between € 10 and € 40 per day for entry to the beach, a parasol and sunbeds. Or do as the locals do, and take your own parasol and set up camp on one of the many small piers.
History lovers shouldn’t miss a trip to nearby Aquileia, which in Caesar’s time was as significant a base for the Roman Empire as Rome itself—the name Friuli derives from “Forum Giuli,” as in Julius Caesar. There are still some impressive mosaics and collections of Roman relics, albeit on a smaller scale than in the Italian capital.
There are numerous hotels on Grado—the Hotel Metropole (Piazza San Marco, Tel. 0039 0431 87 62 07) has a great harborside location, is just a five-minute walk from the beach and is run by a lovely family who have lived on Grado for years. Rooms are big, and prices reasonable.
If more evidence were needed of Friuli’s universal appeal, there’s even a treat for city lovers in the region’s capital, Trieste. Despite only having been part of Italy since 1954, when it was taken over from the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the postwar rearrangement of Europe, Trieste mirrors the region it represents very well. First, there’s the culinary interest. As well as the Italian influences, Trieste’s cuisine is still flavored by its Slavic past. The city is renowned for its lunchtime buffets, where diners pick from a selection of cooked meats, sausages, sauerkraut and dumplings. As one of Europe’s chief ports, Trieste also has a long-established coffee culture. The city is home to numerous Art Nouveau-style coffeehouses—perhaps one of the most famous is the Caffè San Marco (Via Cesare Battisti 18), which has been an institution since 1914. Coupled with coffee culture is literary richness. Indeed, James Joyce was one of a number of European writers who would while away the hours over a steaming cup in a Trieste café. On the musical front, Hungarian composer Franz Lehar is also closely associated with the city, and each July, visitors converge here for an international operetta festival. There’s also plenty of interest for historians. As well as relics from Trieste’s Roman history, you’ll find evidence of the city’s turbulent past as a contested border town.
Sounds good? It’s perfect. Unspoiled, genuine and the embodiment of la dolce vita. Perhaps even too chilled out for some. In which case, I know the perfect place. It’s about a four-hour drive north of Munich…
