Where to get the best regional cuisine
Forget Asian, Fusion or modern European. Bavarian cuisine is the way to go. Ok, I might be sticking my neck out here—after all, a hefty Knödel may not strike you as the sort of food that it’s cool to be seen munching. But look more closely. While Munich’s ladies who lunch may choose sushi over sauerkraut in company, it’s a different story when they’re alone. Just like the rest of us, they’re only too happy to dive into the nearest Augustiner Gaststätte and order a giant schnitzel and a Helles. I’ve had numerous visitors from various countries, and, while you’ll get the usual “I’m not keen on Vietnamese,” or “I’m not a lover of Italian” comments, no one will struggle to find something that takes their fancy on a Bavarian menu (vegetarians excepted). What’s more, it can be made to fit any occasion, be it a business lunch, a special treat or a standard Friday night meal out. We’ve scoured Munich for the best Bavarians in town, be they classy, cult or classic.
Classy
Top of the ranks has to be Schuhbeck’s Südtiroler Stuben at Platzl 6 (Tel. 216 69 00). Don’t be put off by the name—just like Alfons Schuhbeck himself, the food is, in essence, Bavarian. Indeed, the chef describes his cooking as “Bavarian in character, new in its conception, light, modern and of a high quality”—which sums it up pretty well. Don’t go expecting belly-busting portions—this is Michelin-starred stuff, in Michelin-starred mini quantities. With the majority of ingredients sourced locally, the menu changes regularly, depending on the availability of produce—always a plus in my book. Indeed, there’s no denying the food is worthy of its one Michelin star. Purists, though, may question whether you can turn what are traditionally down-to-earth, heavy dishes into gourmet food without spoiling them. It’s one thing eating a thimble-sized amount of foie gras, for example, but does it work with a juicy Kalbsbraten, or would you rather pay half the price and get double the quantity? Whatever your thoughts, you’ve got to give Schuhbeck credit for flying the Bavarian flag, rather than jumping on the rather vague and wide-ranging “modern European” bandwagon. Go and try it. You won’t be disappointed.
Cult
Obviously there are hundreds of places in Munich where you can get a Bavarian meal. But, for some reason, most of the city’s residents appear to head to two in particular. At least they seem to—I’ve never been in either of an evening and seen a table free. The first is Wirtshaus im Fraunhofer at Fraunhoferstrasse 9 (Tel. 26 78 50). Munich juice has been on tap here since 1875 and, looking at the place, it comes as no surprise—the décor is as traditional as it comes, with wood paneling and rows of antler trophies adorning the walls. But that’s not the only thing that draws an extremely diverse crowd. For starters, there’s an incredible buzz. Staff have a wry, Bavarian humor and service is pretty spot-on. But it’s the food that wins the most brownie points. Unlike some Bavarian restaurants, which fall into the trap of thinking that just because they’re serving simple food, it doesn’t have to be particularly good, Fraunhofer dishes are made with love—it’s feel-good stuff at feel-good prices.
Run according to a similar philosophy is Wirtshaus in der Au (Lilienstrasse 51, Tel. 448 14 00). Apart from an opportunity to ogle some nice waiters in Lederhosen (I guess it’s one of those jobs for which applicants are required to send photos), this place offers Bavarian classics put together with thought and imagination. The only thing that might put you off the delicious mains, though, is the thought of dessert. I don’t see how it’s physically possible to tackle a mixed platter of apple cake, four types of strudel, chocolate pudding, ice cream and apricot Knödel (amongst others) unless you’re running on an empty stomach. And, speaking of Knödel, Wirtshaus in der Au also runs Munich’s Knödelei—a tent on the Wies’n devoted to Knödel in flavors both modern and traditional—this year’s specialty, for example, is a Weisswurst Knödel. The tent has gained a cult following and now receives hundreds of booking inquiries every year.
And if those two are full, you could always try:
Wirtshaus Kleine Schmausefalle, Mariahilfplatz 4, Tel. 44 21 88 21—a witty menu, giving Bavarian classics a cheeky twist. Great food, big portions, honest prices.
Alter Simpl, Türkenstrasse 57, Tel. 272 30 83—a hangout for artists and intellectuals in the 1920s and 1930s, this boho spot takes its name from Simplicissimus—a satirical magazine that was banned by the Nazis.
Classic
They don’t come much more traditional than the Gaststätte Grossmarkthalle (Kochelseestrasse 13, Tel. 76 45 31). With its opening hours tailored to the needs of the market traders (it starts serving at 7 am and closes at 5 pm) this pub at Munich’s massive wholesale market is an absolute gem. It has a butchery on site and, as a result, produces some legendary sausages—the Weisswurst are said to be among the best in town.
Got something to celebrate? Then head to the Osterwaldgarten (Keferstrasse 12, Tel. 38 40 50 40), which describes itself as one of Schwabing’s last remaining original inns. Not only are staff quite happy to deck your table with white cloth and flower arrangements, to make the whole experience that bit more elegant, but the food also takes some beating, both in terms of quality and price. Osterwaldgarten is big on tradition—on Fridays they serve baked fish and, on weekends, roast duck. Word has it people come from miles around for the duck—and, having experienced how meltingly tender it is, I’m not surprised. And, as if it couldn’t get any better, there’s also a lovely, quaint little beer garden, should the sun decide to shine…
