October 2005
Fresh from the gourmet scene
Still standing after two inebriating weeks of Oktoberfest? Still lusting after all things Bavarian? Then head back to the Theresienwiese and check out Munich’s newest gastro institution. On the site of what was the Pschorr Keller, overlooking the Wies’n, the newly constructed beer temple,
Bavaria Bräu (Theresienhöhe 7, Tel. 51 99 77 57), is a massive operation and includes three restaurants and a beer garden. As well as brewery classics (a Schweinshaxe costs around € 6.50), there is a section devoted to Italian food, Tipico, and a Euro-Asian restaurant, Colonial.
Another spot that’s risen out of the ashes—literally—is
Der Pschorr (Viktualienmarkt 15, Tel. 51 81 85 00) at the Schrannenhalle, which has been rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1932. Chef Peter Lamy (formerly of Mövenpick) serves up traditional Bavarian treats in a rustic atmosphere.
Before you order the
Helles to go with your meal, however, perhaps it’d be best pay a visit to Munich’s first beer sommelier. Florian Riedl, manager at
Wirtshaus Ayingers (Platzl 1a, Tel. 23 70 36 66), admits he was skeptical when his boss first suggested he go on a two-week course at the brewery academy in Doemens. But he was won over, and is now fully qualified to help diners match their brews to their stews. So what goes with what? Game dishes, which come into their own at this time of year, go perfectly with a good Dunkles, recommends Riedl. And, for dessert, you can’t beat a tasty
Doppelbock.
If the thought of more beer makes your stomach turn, there are alternatives. For something a tad lighter and more modern, head to Schwabing’s newly opened
Riviera restaurant (Türkenstrasse 79, Tel. 28 77 77 15). This molto stylish Italian offers hip surroundings and, among other things, a nice selection of pizzas. These cost between € 7.50 and € 10.50 and are available to take away, too.
Equally stylish, but a touch more upmarket is another new Italian—
Fratelli’s (Blumenstrasse 1, Tel. 26 01 18 50). The menu looks promising, with a limited selection of carefully thought-out dishes. How about duck breast with pistachios and cassis for € 17.50, or veal medallions with taleggio cheese, truffle oil and spinach for € 17? Mmm. Mouthwatering.
Yes, Munich is having an Italian resurgence. Just when you thought the pizza/pasta thing had been done to death, dozens of new Italian restaurants spring up where you least expect them. Check out
Il Conte (Hildegardstrasse 9, Tel. 24 20 88 80), conveniently located between Isartor and Marienplatz, or take a trip to Bogenhausen and try out the slightly smarter
Gambrinus (Ismaningerstrasse 45, Tel. 47 88 41). For some more creative Italian cuisine, take a look at
Highlight (Mies-van-der-Rohe-Strasse 10, Tel. 354 08 11 95), which promises a swish interior and dishes to match—such as salad lasagne with sesame or elderflower pannacotta and berries. They don’t call Munich the northernmost town in Italy for nothing.
And, finally, to spice things up a touch … don’t miss the newest opening at the Viktualienmarkt—the market’s first kosher snack bar. French Jew Vicky Vilf offers spicy vegetarian treats as well as classic pastrami and beef salami, washed down with mint tea. The perfect antidote to last month’s excesses!
