November 2005
That's Kosher
Food from the Holy Land has never been cooler
Rounding the corner in Maxvorstadt, Café Schmock appeared before us—beckoning with a warm, yellow light that spilled out onto the dark streets like an oasis on an otherwise dry stretch of Augustenstrasse. We were in search of a bite to eat, and had yet to venture this way.
Entering through the formidable
Altbau facade, we stepped straight into the bar—dark wooden paneling with old-fashioned silver beer taps and a glimpse of the busy kitchen through the window just beyond. With high stuccoed ceilings, white walls and dark wooden tables and chairs, Schmock’s ambience is chic and smart, while at the same time relaxed and welcoming.
It was not long before the bartender, with a twinkle in his eye, presented us with two empty wine glasses and a menu. Before we could say “wir hätten gern zwei Weissbier bitte,” the red stuff was poured: “Try this.” Somehow he sensed it was our first visit, and wanted to surprise us with the good stuff.
After my first swirl, sniff and sip, I thought I had died and gone to Napa Valley. “It’s a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Golan Heights in Galillee,” the bartender said, smiling. I mean, I knew that Jesus had turned water into wine, but I never realized it could be this good.
Reading the appetizer portion of the menu, our eyes jumped from the tempting Moroccan fish soup to stuffed calamari with bulgar salad. Eventually we decided on the Israeli Appetizer Plate and the ever obliging bartender (now our trusted friend after the divine wine experience) explained each morsel, from taboulleh to homemade Hummus (chickpea purée), Baba Ghanouj (eggplant with a sesame seed paste) to chopped parsley and tomato salad. We scooped eagerly with our pita bread. Each delight was fresh and tasty—the cooks obviously recognise the importance of allowing each of the delicate flavors to show.
We were so impressed with our first foray, we came back the very next night—though this time with more of an appetite. Cool music played as our waitress escorted us briskly to our table with the smooth efficiency I’d expect to find in one of the finer restaurants in San Francisco. Well-versed in proper customer service (a rarity in Deutschland), she suggested trying a new wine they had just received, and patiently answered my many questions about the rest of the menu. Our meal this time began with the spring onion couscous with grilled octopus—so delicate I barely had to chew. Again, it was fresh, not overly oiled, salted or offensive in any way. It was the best thing I have tasted in a long time. We also ordered the Arabic Appetizer plate, which turned out to be a drier, spicier version of its Israeli counterpart, complete with falafel, halloumi cheese, and, again, pita bread. After savoring every last morsel of the Tunisian dorade fillet, we finished with the surprisingly light—but incredible—orange mousse with roasted sesame seeds. It was official. I had found my new favorite restaurant.
(“Schmock” is a Yiddish term that means “idiot,” by the way. Though, I won’t tell you what you’d be if you missed out on this place.)
Café Schmock, Augustenstrasse 52, Tel. 52 35 05 35
The following week (again coincidentally) I found Cohen’s, on Theresienstrasse. This was a sign, I thought. Two Israeli restaurants in one week. Curiosity led me down the driveway into the small, unassuming courtyard in which this family restaurant is tucked. Jacques and Yocheved Cohen have run this place for years and, if you’re looking for some home cooking of Jewish, northern African persuasion, you’ve come to the right place. Just for fun, Cohen’s also offers Arabian appetizers, Russian stews (fresh Borscht!) and Austrian/Hungarian desserts. And, of course, bagels and lox, the Yiddish answer to smoked salmon.
The décor is refreshingly simple and unpretentious, yet classic with white tablecloths and a long row of large windows to give it a very open feel. Since it was Friday, I tried the Gefilte Fish (Yiddish for “gefüllter Fisch”) for which, aside from having the biggest Wiener Schnitzel in town, this place is apparently famous. The restaurant also hosts a weekly session of live Klezmer music.
The food portions here are large. I was also pleased to see they offer a good selection of wine from the Israeli region Golan Heights—my new favorite wine area. In chatting with the cook, Shaapera—another bonifide member of the famiglie—I learned that Cohen’s was inspired by the idea of creating a warm and loving atmosphere in which friends and family come together to eat. And, as with all proud cooking families, they have their favorite secrets. Try as I may, there’s no chance of squeezing the recipe for chopped chicken liver out of this place. I guess that means we’ll just have to keep coming back for more.
Cohen’s, Theresienstrasse 31, Tel. 280 954 54
Another Jewish jewel worth checking out is Café Bracha in the Glockenbachviertel. This minimalistic yet funky spot offers extremely reasonably priced dishes (mains come in at around the € 5–8 mark) all of which are kosher. Various ingredients are also available for purchase.
Café Bracha, Klenzestrasse 47, Tel. 13 95 86 70
To top off my adventures in kosher, falafel and wines from the Holy Land, I ended up at Danel Feinkost in the Vikualienmarkt. This is like a pared-down takeaway version of the others (with a second shop in the Pilgers-heimerstrasse), where you can walk away with a falafel wrap and, to the delight of many a displaced New Yorker, a real pastrami sandwich. Danel Feinkost is bulging with a large assortment of Jewish groceries—from matzos to Manischewitz wine. And their deli counter boasts a wide selection of cold cuts and freshly made salads—all of which is kosher. Another must-visit for anyone, from the Orthodox Jew to those of us who are just curious.
Danel Feinkost , Viktualienmarkt, Tel. 22 80 02 58, and Pilgersheimerstrasse 44, Tel. 66 98 88.
