November 2005
Snuggle Up
The best spots near Munich for a cozy weekend
Christmas is just round the corner. But before you jump on to that festive treadmill and start thinking about presents, cards, food, entertaining, etc., here’s a thought: wouldn’t it do you a world of good to treat yourself to a pre-Christmas weekend break? Not only would a few days away give you a chance to recharge those batteries before chaos strikes, but it would also give you something to look forward to in what is otherwise a somewhat drab season. Convinced? Then pack those cuddly sweaters and head away for a weekend with a difference…
First stop,
Alpenhof Murnau. This rather grand version of an alpine chalet is perched in a dreamy location above the Staffelsee, just a 30-minute drive from Munich. Breathe in some mountain air from your wooden balcony, steam all the Feinstaub out of your pores in the free steam room and sauna and enjoy some cracking food and wine. This is the sort of place where everyone is made to feel special—spend a day or so here and the smiling Swiss manager will be greeting you on your way down to dinner each evening. If that’s not enough, catch some age-old Bavarian tradition on the weekend of November 5 to 7, when the hotel is running a special offer to celebrate St. Leonhard’s Day. In nearby Froschhausen, 80 decorative horse-drawn carriages parade through the village on November 6 to pay their respects to the patron saint of farm animals. For € 267 per person, guests can enjoy a welcome cocktail, two nights’ accommodation, a three-course meal, a celebratory “goose banquet,” a visit to the parade and free entry to the wellness zone.
www.alpenhof-murnau.de, Tel. (08841) 49 10.
The location for foodies has to be the
Residenz Heinz Winkler in Aschau im Chiemgau. Run by the three-star chef Heinz Winkler, whose CV reads like a who’s who of contemporary cuisine, this stunning mountain palace, 45 minutes’ drive from Munich, is something very, very special. Packages, not surprisingly, are based around food—try the autumn special, which includes three nights’ accommodation, a three-course, three-star meal every evening and an hour’s massage for € 640 per person. Or, if you’ve just gotta get out into those hills, Winkler will pack you up a gourmet backpack as part of a walking package. Want to re-create the whole experience back home? The hotel also runs a consultancy service to help you plan the layout of your kitchen. Sadly, they don’t provide the chef.
www.residenz-heinz-winkler.de, Tel. (08052) 179 90.
Another gourmet spot, but on a somewhat more modest scale, is the
Altes Fahrhaus, just south of Bad Tölz. A converted ferryman’s cottage, this restaurant with rooms (there are just five of them, so be sure to book in good time!) attracts foodies from across the region for its local specialties of wild boar, venison, turbot and perch. Rooms, each of which has its own terrace overlooking the river, cost around € 100 per night, including breakfast.
An der Isarlust 1, Tel. (08041) 60 30.
If your idea of fine dining is more along the lines of
Schweins-sbraten with a
Helles, then take a look at the
Brauereigasthof in Aying. This inn on the site of the Aying brewery, a 30-minute drive from Munich, has been wooing beer-lovers for 620 years. One nice little touch (although that depends how many beers you’ve supped before you hit the sack!) is the way staff place a bottle of beer on each guest’s pillow, instead of the usual chocolate. Rooms are elegant and prices start at € 135 for a double, including breakfast.
www.ayinger-bier.de, Tel. (08095) 906 50.
For goodness of a different sort, head to
Der Benediktenhof in Arzbach. This “Bio Hotel,” a 45-minute drive from Munich, offers organic food and even a chemical-free outdoor swimming pool. Quintessentially Bavarian rooms, many of which have a four-poster bed, cost from € 65 for a double, including breakfast.
www.benediktenhof.de, Tel. (08042) 914 70.
Another organically minded hotel has allegedly been chosen by the England soccer team as their base during next year’s World Cup Championships. The
Hotel Schlossgut Oberambach on Lake Starnberg promises organic food and 80 organic wines. Not that this did the German team a lot of good when they stayed in the hotel prior to their historical 5-1 thrashing by England in Munich in 2001. Still, with clean, white, elegant rooms, a fantastic setting and a range of wellness activities on offer, it’s a good choice for an autumn break.
www.schlossgut.de, Tel. (08177) 93 23.
Or check out the choice of the boys from Bayern München. Each year Kahn and clan head down the A8 to
Hotel Bachmair Alpina on Tegernsee for a week of preseason training. It’s not difficult to see why—the hotel offers a variety of sporting opportunities, whether you’re into ballooning, mountain-biking, tennis, golf or walking. Take advantage of the sporting weekend offer, which includes two nights’ accommodation, mountain bike hire, a full body massage and use of the sauna and swimming pool for € 300 for two people.
www.bachmair-alpina.de, Tel. (08022) 92 88 80.
