December 2005
King of the Fungals
Treat yourself to a truffle or two this holiday season
It’s probably one of the ugliest foods in the world. Small, brown and knobbly, it contains the same chemical that men secrete in underarm sweat, is 73 percent water, and used to be hunted by flies. And yet, it’s said to have been the favorite food of popes and pharaohs, has driven people to crime and is said to be one of the world’s greatest aphrodisiacs. What’s more, we’re actually prepared to pay as much as € 6000 a kilo for this wonder stuff, which pretty much makes it one of the only foodstuffs which is literally worth its weight in gold. We’re talking truffles.
Taking this into account, it’s hardly surprising that truffles are often seen as something rather elitist. Indeed, few of us would even consider picking up a few as part of our weekly shop at the Viktualienmarkt. But there really is no reason to be afraid—truffles are one of the simplest ingredients with which to cook and, ok, so they’re expensive, but a few grams are really all you need to transform a good dish into a magical dish. So what better time than Christmas to get to grips with one of the greatest culinary treats you’ll ever experience? We’ve put together a beginner’s guide to the mystery fungus and asked one of Munich’s top chefs, Hans Hollweck, who also runs the Rottler stand at the Viktualienmarkt, to reveal his favorite recipes for the ultimate Christmas truffle feast. Try the lot—or just individual courses—you won’t be disappointed!
ARE ALL TRUFFLES THE SAME?
There are many varieties of truffle to be found all over the world. However, there are three biggies on the food front—and most of them are found in Italy and France. The most highly-esteemed truffles are the black Perigord truffle, which is black on both the out- and inside and the white Alba truffle, which is pale brown on the outside and white on the inside. As these are so aromatic to begin with, the best way to cook with them is simply to shave the truffle over hot, fresh pasta and add a splash of olive oil. Or try a few shavings with some scrambled eggs for a special Christmas breakfast.
If you don’t have quite as much cash to splash, try the less expensive Summer or Scorzone truffle—black on the outside, off-white inside. As it would seem a waste to kill the delicate aromas of the Perigord and Alba with intense cooking, this is probably the best choice if your recipe calls for actually cooking the truffle, as with the truffled chicken dish recipe we’ve included.
HOW MUCH SHOULD I EXPECT TO PAY?
Prices vary from day to day, but, in general, you will shell out between € 3.50 and € 4.50 per gram for white truffles, up to € 3.50 per gram for Perigord truffles and up to € 1.20 per gram for Scorzones. Obviously, in restaurants, you’ll pay more.
AND HOW MUCH TRUFFLE WILL I NEED PER PERSON?
Reckon with 4–6 g per person with Scorzones. If you’re using white truffles or Perigords you’ll need less—about 3–5 g per person.
WHAT IF I’VE ANY LEFTOVERS?
Truffles only stay fresh for a matter of days—about 5 days for Perigords and white ones and 15 for a Scorzone. So short of indulging in an exquisite midnight feast, freeze them whole and they’ll keep for months. If you intend to eat the truffle soon, store it in uncooked rice. Not only will this keep the truffle at its best, it also means you can use the aromatized rice to make a risotto the next day.
WHERE CAN I BUY THEM?
Your best bet is the Viktualienmarkt.
CAN’T I GO OUT AND PICK
MY OWN?
No. Even if you knew where to look—truffle hunting spots are closely guarded secrets—and had a dog up to the job, you’d still need a license from the local authority. Klaus Gerard, who lives just outside Munich, is the only German officially licensed to hunt truffles in Italy. It took passion, perseverance—hunters must pass tough written and oral exams—and the occasional bribe with a crate of Andechs beer.
YOU MENTIONED A DOG?
Truffles were traditionally hunted using pigs. But because the chemicals emitted by the truffles are the same as those released by a sexually-aroused sow, amorous boars would ravage the innocent fungi when they found them. Dogs, on the other hand, are happy to settle for a standard doggy treat for their efforts and generally don’t damage the truffles. In order to prevent his dog, Attila, from damaging truffles during training, Gerard buried the delicacies in the yellow shells from Kinder Surprise eggs.
IS IT EASY TO SPOT A DAMAGED TRUFFLE?
Truffles should be hard and firm and not damp and soft. Check to make sure it has no holes, no cracks and isn’t broken. The best way to guarantee yourself a good one, is to find a reputable dealer.
OK, I’M HOOKED. TELL ME MORE…
You’ll find lots of information, in German, on Gerard’s Website,
www.trueffelpfote.de. Or, for the ultimate treat, why not book one of his many truffle holidays? Check out
www.trueffel-reisen.de for details. If you’d prefer to stay in Munich, you can enjoy truffle dishes at either Tantris or Boettner, both of which, says Gerard, do magical things with the magical fungus. <<<
