The best places to stay in the Alps
The Alps. In winter there is no better place to be. This, at least, appears to be the opinion of the thousands upon thousands of visitors who gladly transverse the planet (or at least Europe) each winter for the simple pleasures of pristine mountain air, powdery ski slopes and all the irresistible trappings of an alpine lodge, or Hütte. For those fortunate enough to live in Munich, these winter joys are just a short jaunt down the road. And, if you’re willing to cross borders, the Austrian, Italian and Swiss Alps are all within easy reach.
Alpine accommodations range from the austere to the opulent. Adventure seekers can pack up their supplies, set out on foot and spend winter nights in a solitary wind-whipped shack. At the other extreme, lovers of luxury can indulge in beauty treatments and five-course meals at spa hotels, which dot chic alpine-valley villages. And, for those who want to balance reasonable comfort and a true alpine experience, there are plenty of options as well.
For the alpine traditionalist
In both summer and winter, the most authentic of alpine experiences can be had in one of the Deutscher Alpenverein’s (DAV) 352 mountain lodges (Hütten), which are scattered throughout the German Alps, often within hiking distance of one another.
The DAV offers three categories of Hütten, which are loosely rated according to accessibility and comfort. Category one Hütten represent the most remote and primitive lodges, while category three lodges are the most accessible. Category one lodges are Schutzhütten, which offer rustic accommodations for alpine trekkers. With few exceptions, these are reachable only on foot: some are manned (bewirtschaftet) and others are not (unbewirtschaftet or Selbstversorgerhütten).
In the manned lodges, hikers can expect to check in upon arrival and pay the proprietor directly for lodging. Accommodations are simple (think youth hostel in the rough) and are available as either sectioned-off rooms furnished with beds (Zimmerlager) or large dorm-style halls (Matratzenlager) lined with mattresses. Note that the DAV Hütten provide blankets only, therefore you must bring your own sleep sheet or sleeping bag. Also, it is advisable to take a pair of slippers, as boots may not be worn in most of the lodges. In the dining room (Gastraum) of a manned lodge, trekkers find drinks and a small selection of warm alpine favorites on offer, such as Kaiserschmarren, Würstel mit Kartoffelsalat and Rühreier mit Schinken.
In unmanned self-service lodges (Selbstversorgerhütten), the going is rougher and the century-old spirit of the first DAV Hütten is well preserved. In these huts the hearty and adventurous pack in food and are responsible for heating the lodge using wood-burning stoves. If you don’t have experience in starting a fire, you may want to acquire these skills before heading for an unmanned lodge, as heat takes on an entirely new importance when you don’t have it. Unmanned lodges supply blankets, mattresses, simple cooking utensils, basic first-aid supplies and, in most cases, wood. Be sure, however, to confirm these details in advance with the DAV. It is also important to find out whether unmanned huts are unlocked or whether you’ll need to pick up a key prior to departure.
For members of the DAV, every lodge in category one offers the option of self-service accommodations, even if the hut is manned. This means that a large room (often referred to as the Winterraum) is reserved for DAV members, who can bring in their own food, manage their own heating and in essence remain separate from the extra cost associated with the operations of manned lodges.
Category two and three lodges are manned throughout the year and are easily reached on foot and by vehicle, though this does not necessarily mean that visitors can drive to them. Like their category one equivalents, category two lodges maintain their primary purpose as a support for hikers, but are far less primitive and see a greater number of visitors. Category two lodges are slightly more expensive and are popular destinations among skiers and families, as they are often situated near ski areas and sometimes provide comforts like indoor bathrooms and warm running water. Category three lodges are easily accessible and serve primarily as stop-ins for day-trippers, but some offer overnight accommodations.
The DAV has a well-organized Website, where prices, regulations, contact information and details about individual Hütten can be found. The cost and availability of both food and accommodations vary for members and non-members of the DAV, so you’ll want to be clear on these details before departing. Generally, however, for non-members accommodation in category one lodges ranges from € 8 to € 24 per night and can be more costly in the more comfortable category two and three lodges. Food and drink is moderately priced in all lodges, and warm meals cost between € 5 and € 8.
For the winter vacationer
For the vacationer seeking moderate comfort and access to services (like ski slopes and nearby villages), many of the DAV Hütten in category two are viable choices, though there are many other options. Two good online resources for anyone seeking alpine vacation accommodations are www.huetten.com and www.bergfex.de, both of which have listings in German and English. Accommodations listed on these Websites vary from individual lodges rented by private parties to large hotels. Though some listings are simple rental properties where guests are expected to purchase and prepare food themselves, others offer full or half-board. In some cases, www.huetten.com offers package deals that include transportation by train and transfer to properties.
One typical example of a privately operated Hütte is the Schutzhütte Berggasthaus Resterhöhe, which is located at 1,800 meters within the Kitzbühel ski area. This 40-bed Gasthaus-style Hütte offers simple, traditionally furnished rooms (one single, two doubles and several rooms suitable for families). The Berggasthaus Resterhöhe is directly on the ski slope, is close to a gondola (Seilbahn) and has its own ski school and ski rental service. Room rates include three-quarters board—breakfast, an afternoon snack (Jause) and a warm evening meal. Dishes on offer are regional favorites, such as Bauerngröstl mit Speck und Ei (meat and potato hash with bacon and egg).
Another option is to rent a small cabin that is part of a “cabin village” (Hüttendorf) and use that as base camp for winter sports. One such place is the Hüttendorf Pruggern near Schladming, Austria (one hour from Salzburg). The clustering of nine cabins at 1,200 meters is nestled on a mountain above the village of Pruggern in the heart of the Dachstein-Tauern “ski paradise,” which boasts 152 km of groomed slopes. Based just 300 meters from the nearest gondola station, guests can easily rent skis and attend ski school. Other winter sports and activities available in the area include hiking, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and even horse-drawn sleigh rides.
The smaller cabins at Pruggern accommodate up to 12 guests and the larger ones house groups of up to 24. Each includes satellite television, a fully equipped kitchen (think Swedish oven, coffee machines and microwaves) and other creature comforts, such as floor heating, a sauna, a whirlpool, a sun deck and a barbeque. The village is accessible by car and has a small shop where visitors can purchase groceries, alcohol and cigarettes.
Similar in concept, but a bit further into Austria, is the Almhüttendorf Turrach in Styria, which is near the Turracher Höhe ski area. Almhüttendorf Turrach is home to 15 cabins where guests can either prepare their own meals or indulge in the half-board option in the village Dorfstube, which includes a breakfast buffet and a three-course evening meal.
For the luxury lover
Though winter in the Alps has roots in the most primitive and extreme of adventures, today’s alpine experiences run the complete gamut, and of course include high-end extravagance, which can be found in increasingly popular “spa and wellness” hotels. One such destination is the family-run Hotel Staudacherhof in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, which spoils guests in a cozy 70-bed hotel complete with award-winning cuisine and elegant Bavarian décor. Most rooms offer a balcony and a view, and some rooms are tucked away in the building’s spires (Turmzimmer). A certified wellness hotel, Staudacherhof includes an indoor bathing area (Hallenbad), a solarium and tanning beds.
Another option is the Alpenhotel Zechmeisterlehen in Schönau am Königssee. Perched on a plateau above Königssee, the 82-bed hotel offers a wide range of spa treatments, fitness programs and guided outdoor programs, such as snowshoeing to an igloo. Fitness courses range from water aerobics to yoga and tai chi. Though the décor and cuisine are decidedly Bavarian, the fitness and spa treatments have an oriental flair, and include ayurvedic treatments along with traditional massages and facials.
Whether you seek an alpine adventure or some serious pampering, the Alps offer a magnificent and invigorating getaway. Somehow that crisp mountain air empties the mind of everything but thoughts of another day of sparkling, snow-capped mountains, piping hot goulash and the next nip of Glühwein among friends. You really can’t beat it.
