Munich’s funkiest eateries
So much for “you are what you eat.” In Munich, it’s where you eat that really defines the sort of person you are. So, for all you funky folk out there, here’s our pick of great places to eat, see and, most importantly, be seen eating…
The number one location for style kings and queens has to be Nektar (Stubenvollstrasse 1, Tel. 45 91 13 11). It’s never easy to achieve uniqueness in a gastro scene such as Munich’s, where creative types are relentlessly battling it out to offer something “different” and get one up on the competition. But owners Guido Kellermann, Tom Breiter and Christian Schottenhamel (whose combined CV reads like a definitive guide to eating, drinking and schmoozing in Munich—think Käfer, Pacha and, of course, the legendary Schottenhamel Wies’n tent) have really pulled it off with this one. The whole James Bondesque experience starts at the door, which features a hand scanner (straight from the Pentagon, no less) to admit invited guests. The establishment itself is made up of a number of hip rooms—gaze at video artists on the walls of Le Cabinet Plasma, groove in the 1960s-style Le Salon Orange or head straight to La Salle Blanche restaurant, where up to 100 diners laze, Cleopatra style, on white daybeds as staff serve an exquisite feast. Courses are interspersed with acts by various artists, ranging from music, to dance, to massage. Surprisingly, though, the Nektar experience is not just about show. Like his colleagues, chef Markus Huschka has a sparkling CV, having honed his skills with three-star cook Heinz Winkler and at the one-star restaurant in Munich’s Hotel Königshof. Gourmet fans will not be disappointed—this is exciting cuisine, without being creative for creativity’s sake. And though, at € 49 a head, it may not be the cheapest night out, it’s certainly value for money. Style comes at a price, darling.
Having said that … those looking for a more down-to-earth, funky night out, should check out Cooperativa (Jahnstrasse 35, Tel. 20 20 76 20). I walked past this place for a year, before plucking up the courage to go in. It wasn’t the fact that it was always heaving that put me off. No, the problem was down to the menu. Stare as I might, I couldn’t quite work out what was actually on offer—and it wasn’t a language thing. Instead of choosing between conventional dishes, diners pick their favorite from a selection of “plates,” each laden with various interesting creations, ranging from meat, to lentils, to fruit and plenty more. There are also a couple of daily specials—a veal ragout was possibly one of the best things I’ve eaten in a Munich restaurant. Which is going some. And all for less than € 10 a go. Ok, so it may, as one friend remarked, be a touch like “eating in a garage”—think bricks, untreated wood and metal pipes—but there’s a great atmosphere, hip music that gets louder as the evening goes on and friendly service. What’s more, unlike most Munich establishments, where you can’t even get a coat hook unless you’ve reserved it, Cooperativa has a first-come, first-served policy. Good on ’em. I’ll race you there…
And if you can’t get in there, don’t bother trying to get in to Nage und Sauge (Mariannenstrasse 2, Tel. 29 88 03). This inevitably cramped spot in Lehel is another place that proves, when it comes to menus, that less is definitely more. As regular readers of this column will know, I’m always wary of restaurants with bulging menus. I don’t believe it’s feasible for any chef worth his salt to stock ingredients for, let alone cook, so many dishes on demand. Not without the help of his trusty servants—the freezer and the micro-wave—that is. Which is why, in my book, Nage und Sauge’s limited selection of focaccia has to be a winner. Before you get me wrong, we’re not talking simple sandwiches here. As at Cooperativa, you’re in for a plateful of yummy ingredients, with a couple of slices of chunky Italian bread on the side. Juicy meat, crisp greens—it’s good stuff—and well worth elbowing your way through the crowds of sweaty, sexy people for.
If platter-style food’s just not your thing, head to Lux (www.lux-munich.de, Reichenbachstrasse 37, Tel. 20 23 83 93). Screamingly Glockenbach, this hip little hangout—the eye-catching interior was designed by Munich artist Patricia London Ante Paris—was never intended to be a restaurant when it first opened, in 1998. Until, that is, French chef Gilles Dura (formerly of Dukatz) came on board. Since then, Lux has had a reputation of offering high-quality, classic French dishes. You’ll find the usual snails, oysters and truffle oil, but also the occasional twist, such as a lavender crème brûlée.
Our final tip for a funky location is Bahlmoud. Tucked away in the upcoming Dreimühlenviertel, at Isartalstrasse 26 (www.bahlmoud.de, Tel. 72 99 75 57), this lounge / restaurant offers a small selection of Mediterranean dishes, with prices for a dish of pasta starting at € 7.50. Perhaps the highlight of the week is Thursday evening, when DJ Jondal—the man behind the cult radio and CD series KlassikLounge—takes to the decks, as diners tuck in to a range of Persian specialties. Eastern chillin’ at its best.
