March 2006
Bath Time
Take a dip in the
miracle waters of the Swabian bathing route
A dip in the Danube may be good for nothing but causing chillblains in many people’s minds. Yet, for Sebastian Kneipp, a 19th-century cleric from the Bavarian town of Bad Wörishofen, the river waters not only saved his life, but they also inspired the concept of natural medicine as we know it today. Now tourists from across the world converge on the region to try the miracle waters. We packed our bathing gear to find out more…
Sebastian Kneipp first read about the potential of cold water to cure disease when he borrowed a book, written by a Polish country doctor, from a library in Munich. Suffering from tuberculosis, which was, at the time, incurable, he decided to put the doctor’s theories to the test. Every day, Kneipp took short dips in the icy waters of the river and, true enough, he was soon cured. Combining the water treatment with physiotherapy and plant treatments, giving birth to the practice of naturopathy, the cleric then started curing others. Today, Bad Wörishofen is still living off Kneipp’s renown. Not only do local doctors still use his methods, but the town is the beginning of the Schwäbische Bäderstrasse (Swabian bathing route)—a string of spa towns specializing in a variety of treatments for the body and soul.
Stretching 160 km, the Schwäbische Bäderstrasse links nine towns from Bad Wörishofen, 80 km west of Munich, to Überlingen, on the shores of Lake Constance. Each resort offers its own specialty—from miracle water treatments to detoxifying mud baths and steam therapy. Anyone wishing to give their body the ultimate treat could flit from one town to the next, taking in the whole range of therapies on offer. True fitness freaks could even attempt it by bike—a good rubdown at the end of each day would do wonders for aching muscles, after all. For those who are not quite so hard-core, however, the Schwäbische Bäderstrasse “Kraft tanken” two-day package is the perfect way to banish those winter ills and refuel your body for spring. Available in each of the nine resorts, the offer includes two nights’ three-star accommodation and breakfast, one evening meal and two treatments for € 149. The only taxing thing you’ll be expected to do, is choose where to go. To help you out, here’s our guide to the resorts and the treatments on offer:
BAD WÖRISHOFEN
Directions from Munich: 84 km, or a one-hour train journey.
Healing powers: Kneipp is such a big name in this place, that they’ve even named a verb after him. Make time for a session of “kneippen” and you’ll leave feeling full of energy. The treatment, available at outlets around town, involves hydrotherapy—i.e. using water of different temperatures and pressures—in combination with nutritional- and physiotherapy. Recommended for anyone with heart and circulation problems, sufferers of rheumatism, back problems or allergies in particular.
When you can’t face another massage: Not surprisingly, Bad Wörishofen houses a museum devoted to its famous father. Slightly out of town, in nearby Ottobeuren, the Benediktinerabtei is reputedly one of the most impressive Baroque churches in Germany.
Where to stay: Kurhotel Schropp, (Obere Mühlstrasse 13a, Tel. [08247] 350 00,
www.hotel-schropp.de.) Even if you never make it out of the hotel, the wellness area here will leave you feeling well and truly chilled. As well as the usual culprits, there’s an organic herb sauna and a Finnish sauna. The hotel also offers the full range of Kneipp treatments.
BAD GRÖNENBACH
Directions: 134 km, approximately two hours by train.
Healing powers: Check out the town’s two Kneipp sanatoriums—Bad Clevers (
www.badclevers.de) and Dr. Krautheim (
www.dr-krautheim.de)—for everything from a tailor-made beauty and wellness weekend, to long-term rehab after serious illness.
When you can’t face another massage: Set against the backdrop of the Alps, Bad Grönenbach is an attractive place to wander round. Perhaps its main draw, aside from wellness, is the annual summer cultural festival—Sommerfrische—which attracts acts and visitors from around the world. For details, see
www.bad-groenenbach.de.
Where to stay: Both the sanatoriums offer accommodation, or check out Landhotel Grönenbach (Ziegelbergerstrasse 3, Tel. [08334] 984 80,
www.landhotel-groenenbach.de), which also has a doctor in residence to help with all your Kneipp queries!
BAD WURZACH
Directions: 152 km, or between three and four hours by train and bus, changing in Leutkirch.
Healing powers: As Bad Wurzach is located on central Europe’s largest area of moorland, it’s not surprising that treatment here focuses on the powers of, well, mud. As one of the most effective natural products in the healing process (yes, honestly), it reduces inflammation, soothes pain and helps relax muscles. Hot mud baths are thought to work wonders for those suffering from arthritis, spinal problems and skin troubles. The brown stuff is also said to boost your immune system, calm your nerves and reduce stress.
When you can’t face another massage: If you’re feeling reenergized after all that mud, the moorland also offers more than 200 km of walking and cycling tracks. Or pay a visit to the impressive Baroque palace, Bad Wurzacher Schloss, whose elegant staircase and frescoes are considered among the era’s finest. The nearby Gottesberg provides a great view of the Alps, as well as being home to a Baroque church that attracts 15,000 pilgrims a year.
Where to stay: For on-your-doorstep treatment, try the Moorsanatorium, with its team of in-house masseurs, doctors and physiotherapists (Karl-Wilhelm-Heck-Strasse 12, Tel. [07564] 30 40,
www.moorsanatorium.de).
BAD WALDSEE
Directions: 165 km, or approximately three hours by train.
Healing powers: Home to the hottest natural spa in Upper Swabia, Bad Waldsee is the place to go if you’re suffering from gynecological problems or rheumatism.
When you can’t face another massage: Worth visiting for its unusual location directly between two natural lakes, this pretty little spot has an attractive Old Town, as well as a variety of leisure activities.
Where to stay: Health buffs should check out Kurpension Beck (Badstrasse 27/1, Tel. [07524] 971 30,
www.kurpension-beck.de), which, as well as a vast range of wellness options, promises guests a good night’s sleep, thanks to their special orthopedic beds. They also provide free bicycles for visitors’ use.
AULENDORF
Directions: 174 km, or two hours by train, changing in Ulm.
Healing powers: With its 900 square meter water-sport center—the Schwaben-Therme— Aulendorf is a good bet if you’ve got kids. As well as a Roman bath, various saunas and water fitness programs, the Therme has fun pools and slides.
When you can’t face another massage: Again, something for the kids—the Aulendorf toy museum. Or check out the town’s newly restored palace, Schloss Aulendorf.
Where to stay: With the kids more than happy, the Vita-Wellness Hotel (Ebisweilerstrasse 20, Tel. [07525] 921 00,
www.vita-thermalhotel.de) has a few treats for the guys, who, it has to be said, are occasionally neglected in the world of wellness. As well as antistress male facial massages, the hotel has a new bar, offering wine for € 1 a glass and Weissbier for € 2 for half a liter.
BAD SCHUSSENRIED
Directions: 165 km, two hours by train, changing in Ulm.
Healing powers: Bad Schussenried’s health center specializes in treating people with joint and spinal problems.
When you can’t face another massage: The place for active types, Bad Schussenried offers seemingly endless sporting opportunities, whether you’re into riding, cycling, ballooning, gliding or skiing. It’s also home to what is reputedly “the most beautiful village church in the world”—the Wallfahrtskirche Steinhausen.
Where to stay: How about a night in one of the region’s oldest inns? What is now called Landgasthof zur Linde (Ingoldingerstrasse 2, Tel. [07583] 23 81,
www.zur-linde-steinhausen.de) has been entertaining guests—in particular, pilgrims to the church—since the 13th century. The hotel’s Rococo facades were renewed in 1972 and a non-smoking section was opened in 1998.
BAD BUCHAU
Directions: 171 km, or two to three hours by train and bus.
Healing powers: This little village is bulging with clinics, offering everything from beauty treatments to post-cancer recovery programs and the full range of Kneipp therapies.
When you can’t face another massage: Stroll around the attractive natural lake—the Federsee—or visit the reconstructed Stone-Age village on its shores.
Where to stay: Despite having just 4,000 residents, Bad Buchau has around 1,000 guest beds, ranging from private rooms to clinic accommodation. Check out
www.badbuchau.de.
BAD SAULGAU
Directions: 180 km, 2 hours 40 mins. by train, changing in Ulm.
Healing powers: Nuns first discovered the healing powers of Bad Saulgau’s sulfurous waters more than 200 years ago. Now, some 1.5 million liters of water a day are pumped into the town’s Sonnenhof Therme, which has six pools with temperatures ranging from 28 to 40°C and various saunas. The center also offers free water gymnastic sessions every hour.
When you can’t face another massage: Chill to the sounds of Bad Saulgau’s chamber music series, which has been attracting renowned artists since its launch in 1992. Or enjoy a stroll round the town’s attractive center or famous monastery, Kloster Siessen, with its Baroque church.
Where to stay: The recently re-novated Hotel Württemberger Hof (Karlstrasse 13, Tel. [07581] 511 41,
www.komforthotels.de/wbhof) provides wellness and guided tours around the local area as part of its various accommodation packages.
ÜBERLINGEN
Directions: 230 km, three hours by train, changing in Ulm.
Healing powers: As well as a spa directly on the shores of Lake Constance, Überlingen clinics offer a vast range of treatments, ranging from hydrotherapy to plant therapy, nutritional therapy and even
“Ordnungstherapie” (well we are in Germany!), which promises to help you get your life in order.
When you can’t face another massage: With Lake Constance on your doorstep, you’re not going to be short of activities, be it walking, sailing or sightseeing. Überlingen itself is famed for its attractive medieval town center.
Where to stay: The gorgeous Bad Hotel (Christophstrasse 2, Tel. [07551] 83 70,
www.bad-hotel-ueberlingen.de) is the pick of the bunch of numerous places to stay. Right on the shores of Lake Constance, it offers great views, and a restaurant serving fresh fish from the lake.
Information and contact details for all resorts can be found at
www.schwaebische-baederstrasse.de. For travel information, see
www.bahn.de. <<<
