Bayerische Seenschifffahrt, one of Europe’s largest inland waterway transportation companies, runs 35 comfortably appointed boats (some of which boast beautiful cafés) on the aforementioned lakes. Make several stops and visit local sights or simply sit back and take in such views as the snow-capped mountains, historical landmarks or rushing waterfalls. On your tour of Ammersee, for instance, hop off in Diessen and look for the Wirtshaus am Kirchsteig (open Sun. at 10 am, Mon. and Thurs. to Sat. at 6 pm, closed Tues. and Wed.; tel. [08807] 72 86; credit cards are not accepted), located on the edge of the village. Here, you will find an idyllic, shady beer garden and an indoor restaurant, which, as luck would have it, just happens to have a nonsmoking section as well. The food here, celebrated for its excellence, can be characterized as a kind of “farm world cuisine.” On your tour of Starnberger See, make a stop in Leoni, where, right next to the steamboat ramp, you will spot the fine Seehotel Leoni. With its fabulous terrace, directly on the water, and first-rate cuisine, this restaurant is a must if you are in the neighborhood and is sure to please (www.hotel-leoni.com). In Tegernsee, you should not miss the famous “Bräustüberl” in the “Schloss,” a former monastery. Bayerische Seenschifffahrt offers special boat rides for each lake: savor a Sunday brunch on Starnberger See for just € 17.90 per person (reservations required). Take a wine cruise on Tegernsee or dance on the deck of the paddlewheel steamship HERRSCHING on Ammersee. For an extensive list of activities, times and dates, visit www.seenschifffahrt.de or call (08652) 9636-0. Starnberger See and Ammersee can both be reached by S-Bahn: S 6 Starnberg; S 5 Herrsching. Those who have purchased a day, partner or family S-Bahn ticket receive a 10% discount on boat rides.
For those, however, who wish to chart their own course across the lakes of the region, the Ernst Sailing School in Utting offers sailing lessons in English. At the end of a one-week (€ 190) or weekend course (€ 250), participants receive a certificate that allows them to rent a sailboat anywhere in Bavaria. Kids can also play at captain, in small classes emphasizing safety as well as fun (€ 150). More info at www.segelschule-ernst.de, or (08806) 7661.