Although the town of Bamberg was founded long before 1007, it was not until that year that King Henry II persuaded 27 bishops and 8 archbishops to move there, forming a central bishopric that rivalled Rome. Bamberg and other towns in the bishopric will celebrate the 1000th anniversary with special religious services and celebrations throughout 2007, making it an apt time to explore the city’s impressive religious architecture. Because it was a foggy day when Allied forces were bombing in the area, Bamberg was spared the destruction that many other German cities such as Nuremburg faced during World War II. Today, its Old Town is Germany’s largest and most impressive: More than 2,000 Bamberg structures are listed, and UNESCO named the entire city a World Heritage Site in 1993.
Like many European towns, one of Bamberg’s most impressive landmarks is its cathedral. King Henry II consecrated the church in 1012, and a variety of architectural styles have been layered onto the structure since then. The impressive main entrance, for example, was built in 1225, and its ten recessed arches are a clear reflection of Gothic aesthetics. The inside of the cathedral, however, is dominated by Renaissance motifs. Woodcarvings by Veit Stoss and sculptures by Tilman Riemenschneider give luster to the largely unadorned interior. Nearby, the Diocesan Museum houses the cathedral’s treasury: not stacks of gold coins, but religious paraphernalia, relics, and a large collection of religious attire. The skulls of King Henry II and his wife Kunigunde now could be said to reside unknowingly in a glorified closet.
The Diocesan Museum is full of ample evidence of the increasing importance of material wealth to the church. The 16th century saw increased graft and corruption among religious leaders throughout Germany. In Bamberg, this took the shape of the Neue Residenz on Domplatz. This luxe palace was not, as in Munich, the home of nobility; bishops were those most likely to pass through the glorious stucco work of Emperor’s Hall. A 15 minute walk away on Michelsberg, the old Benedictine monastery provides a striking counterpoint.
Bamberg’s secular structures are just as worthy of a visit, and an English-language audio guide to the city is available for € 5.50 at the Tourist Office. (Geyerswörthstrasse 3. Open Mon.–Fri., 9:30 am–6 pm; Sat., 9:30 am–2:30 pm.) No trip to “Little Venice” would be complete without a meandering walk along the River Pegritz.
Trains for Bamberg depart the Hauptbahnhof each hour, and tickets cost € 52. An even better option is the Bayern Ticket (€ 19, € 27 for groups of up to five people). It covers one day of travel on all of Bavaria’s transportation nets, including S-, U-, Strassenbahn, and buses.
