Whether you’ve partied the night through at one of Munich’s bumping Fasching celebrations, or spent the evening at a quiet fete with friends, it’s definitely better to drink late than to get up early. But when you face the dawn-lit streets with aching feet and an increasingly disturbing feeling spreading through the pit of your stomach, the need to down something hot and hearty might spark a little panic: Even though mandatory closing times are a thing of the past, Munich doesn’t offer up many possibilities for early-morning dining. If you’re not afraid of mixing with some colorful characters, there are a few places where you can end your evening with a nightcap or small breakfast.
Proprietor Ursula Frischhut opens her Café Frischhut-Schmalznudel (across from the Viktualienmarkt, Prälat-Zistl-Str. 8) every morning at exactly 5 am. Night owls drenched with sweat and smoke sit harmoniously alongside the down-to-earth and diligent market workers. (Maybe they’ll have the inclination to start getting up earlier one of these days!) Although a deep-fried dish might not be everyone’s idea of a delicious breakfast, with a hot coffee on the side, it’s sure to revive even the most pooped party-goer.
A second spot for such an early breakfast is located by the Grossmarkthalle—the stomach of Munich, where most of the Viktualienmarkt stand owners obtain their fresh wares. The secret tip there is the Pasticceria Bussone (Thalkirchnerstr. 126). The first early risers stumble up to the bar at 5 am. Their pale, drawn faces make it clear what they need: a cappuccino, or at least a caffè, and make it a doppio, per favore! They hardly raise their tired eyes to watch the early morning program of the Italian RAI as it blares over the counter. More interesting are the fresh brioches, cornetti, biscotti, and tramezzini, which Bussone makes in her own Pasticceria (bakery). A sparkling and sizzling chrome espresso machine stirs memories of celebratory southern nights.
Another excellent choice is Lamm’s (Sendlinger Tor Platz). This traditional last-stop for many a party train is open 24 hours a day and located in the cellar under the movie theater. It’s an unpretentious spot for those looking for just one more Augustiner or Kaltenberger, or a hearty Schweinsbraten to go along with it. Other Bavarian and Austrian specialties are available. Prices are very fair, and the clientele is always interesting. In addition, it’s located near public transportation to get you home safely.
The tiny corner spot Landhaus (Marienstr. 2) also is opened round the clock. The slightly tacky ambience takes a little getting used to, but there’s fresh-tapped Augustiner, juicy Würste and other warm snacks aplenty. It’s ideal for Innenstadt partiers who want to keep the night going into the morning hours. Diagonally across the Square is MARA (corner of Herrnstrasse and Hochbrückenstrasse). Mara has a similarly questionable interior design, but is open mornings until 10 am. There’s a solid group of regulars who meet after spending the night awake on the job: taxi drivers, doormen, and the employees of surrounding hotels and restaurants. Visitors can enjoy strong coffee, of course, but there aren’t any breakfast offerings, only a few sausages.
Nachtkantine in the Kultfabrik complex has always belonged to the list of places in which to enjoy a long night. It has good food, good sound, and lots to see. For anyone who is hungry or just wants some nourishment before trying to win over a new flame, there’s coffee and warm food (pizza, pasta, burgers, and sandwiches) until 6 am.
Finally, the Fischerstüberl (Lind-wurmstr. 111) is a prime address for mussels of every variation, and is open each morning until 7 am. In addition, there are fresh-made spare ribs, incredibly tender Angus loins, and other interesting menu items, if you’re in the mood for more than a hot coffee. The clientèle is a colorful mix of suburbanites, as well as taxi drivers and doctors spooning up some goulash after a long night shift. The spot has the questionable charm of a smoky suburban bar, with the typical dark wood and corner benches that have been there for generations. But who wants to go to a hip spot after a long and boozy night? Now really!
