Munich’s oldest Irish pub is the Irish Folk Pub in Schwabing. Run by honorary Irishman Eddy, it’s fitted out with no-nonsense décor that fits its name. It’s so lacking frills, in fact, that the owner long resisted adding TVs above the bar. Now, however, a host of regulars stake out spots for football games and the occasional live folk music performance. The Guinness is good, and the whiskey selection is perhaps Munich’s largest. (Giselastrasse 11, Tel. 34 24 46. Open Tues.–Thurs. and Sun., 8 pm–1 am; Fri. and Sat., 8 pm–3 am. Closed Monday.)
Another Irish saying warns, “Before you call for one for the road be sure you know the road.” That won’t be a problem if you head next to the Shamrock Irish Pub—located just a few blocks north up Leopoldstrasse. Oddly, the spot is best known for its delectable pizzas. The bacon-smothered Bauer Pizza is the solution to many a case of the munchies, and goes better with a brew than soda bread or Irish stew. Several TVs sprinkled throughout the bar show soccer games. Further entertainment is available on Monday nights, which are devoted to impromptu jam sessions, and Tuesdays are quiz nights. (Trautenwolfstrasse 6, Schwabing. Tel. 33 10 81.)
Another block north is Günther Murphy’s Irish Pub. Be careful if you’re planning to offer this traditional Irish toast: “Here’s to our wives and our girlfriends; may they never meet!” The crowded spot is a favorite destination of Munich’s English-speaking expats, and you’re sure to run in to the ones that you know. On Sunday nights patrons take part in karaoke, and try to salvage their reputations on Monday quiz nights. Occasional comedy nights are also scheduled. Despite the late night attractions, GM’s (in regular parlance) is best known for its artery-busting breakfasts. Chef Hushmand also serves a beer-battered fish and chips that just might be better than what Ma used to make. Chicken Caesar wraps are on the menu too, if you feel up to facing the mockery that such an order can provoke. Guinness goes for € 4.20 a pint, and seven kinds of whiskey are available to act as fuel for your car bomb. (Nikolai-strasse 9, Schwabing. Tel. 39 89 11. Open Mon.–Thurs., 5 pm–1 am; Fri. 5 pm–3 am; Sat., 12 pm–3 am; Sun., 12pm–1am. The kitchen is open until 11 pm, and midnight on weekends.)
Also owned and run by the Shamrock’s team, Kilian’s Irish Pub is an island of all things Eire in the city center. Though it shares a cellar space with Ned Kelly’s Australian Bar, the large tables are still surrounded by plenty of standing room that gives soccer fans space to execute victory dances. Nightly music performances also bring patrons off their barstools. Rock covers are more common than folk ballads, but if you’d like to get jiggy, Kilian’s hosts traditional Irish Ceili Dancing on the first Monday night of each month. The event is open to the public and free of charge, although truly spirited participation may require a few warm-up drinks. A pint of Guinness costs € 5, and there are 15 kinds of Irish Whiskey available. Such traditional dishes as an Irish breakfast, Irish lamb stew and fish and chips (around € 8.50 each) are on the menu to complete the cultural immersion of your palate. Free highspeed wireless internet access is available. (Frauenplatz 11, City Center. Tel. 24 21 98 99. Open Mon.–Thurs., 3:30 pm–1 am; Fri.–Sun., 11 am–1 am.)
Molly Malone’s offers Irish delights on the other side of the Isar. It’s further from the city action, and a bit quieter, but offers a huge selection of malt whiskeys and a delicious version of fish and chips. Mondays are quiz nights. (Kellerstr. 21, Haidhausen. Tel. 688 75 10).
May your Munich St. Patrick’s Day be fantastic, and “May the enemies of Ireland never eat bread nor drink whiskey, but be afflicted with itching without the benefit of scratching.”
