What usually starts, ends or is bracketed by a glass of ouzo, an anise-flavored liqueur? There’s only one possible answer: A Greek meal. Among Munich’s ever-growing ethnic dining options, the Greek category stands out for offering both trendy newcomers and decades-old neighborhood standbys, both of which are reasonably priced.
Words to the wise: Every region in Greece prepares appetizers differently, so be open-minded about individualized takes on your favorites. You’ll almost always find the following:
Tzatziki: Yogurt and cucumber dip. Tip: Germans tend to overdo it on the garlic, so if you find a place that doesn’t, you may consider it traditional.
Taramas: That pretty pink fish-egg salad. Tip: It isn’t supposed to be that salty.
Chtipiti: A puréed “mousse” of feta and red peppers. Tip: As this dish should be creamy, recognizable chunks of either ingredient are frowned upon.
Melitzana salad: Eggplant salad. Tip: This should also be seasoned with only a modicum of garlic. Some versions even include nuts.
Dolmades: Stuffed grape leaves. Tip: Every grandma has her own recipe. Two standard versions exist: one with rice only and the other with rice and ground beef.
From a few outdoor tables at Molos (Maistr. 26, Tel. 54 88 07 56), visitors have a glimpse of the exotic light blue used on the indoor furniture and trim. A backdrop of bright white walls offsets mural-sized black-and-white photos of Greek village scenes. The menu also offers surprises. Aside from the predictable appetizers, try the artichoke salad with Parmesan (€ 5.90). Despite the undeniable fact that this is a “hot spot” (Germans might say the clientele can be a bit schicki-micki), the prices are most reasonable and the staff low-key. Chicken marinated in oregano and lemon costs € 9.60 and a Paros Teller (gyros, souflaki and two bifteki) just € 11.40. Molos has a relatively small constant menu and a very large list of daily specials, which recently featured no less than nine fish dishes. Ouzo options start at € 1.80, but also include Ouzo Plomari, at € 8 per glass. Molos offers a solid wine list. Be sure to sample some of the six dessert wines, one of which would no doubt pair well with the delicious yogurt and nut dessert.
Kytaro (Königinstr. 43, Tel. 38 88 76 60), located at the University Riding Academy on the edge of the English Garden, has an enormous outdoor space that is best described as a Mediterranean beer garden. Traditional metal and wood tables nestle under chestnut trees, while potted olive trees and white canvas umbrellas add the more exotic finishing touches. White cloth-covered lamps make the whole garden, as well as an upper-tier bar sporting bleached white furniture, look ethereal. Here I recommend the “Alici” fish dish, a heaping platter of fried fresh sardines served with a salad (€ 10.50). Diners gave a thumbs-up to lamb filet shish kebab (€ 17.50) and the 500 g Dorade Royale (€ 14.50).
There are several Poseidon restaurants in the Munich area, including those near Wettersteinplatz and in Riem. But most often, I head to the location at Grillparzerstrasse 38A (Tel. 47 61 98), which has repeatedly performed well. Order the special fish kebabs, skewers of grilled shrimp, calamari, salmon, peppers and tomatoes served with a side salad. As a lunchtime meal, this is just € 8.95. The same dish at dinner, somewhat more substantial and minus the wooden skewers, costs € 16.45. The traditional moussaka and salad at lunch is just € 6.10. Poseidon is the right place to give you the scoop on ouzo: Try some! But be careful, most diners find it increases appetites.
There are two restaurants in the Leopoldstrasse area that are at opposite ends of the Greek dining experience. The well-known Piatsa (Leopoldstr. 33, Tel. 34 80 00) features a people-packed street scene and an updated “Zorba the Greek” atmosphere in the cellar, including live music several nights a week. Its menu offers a large selection of sautéed dishes, such as pork medallions with crab and a basil cream sauce (€ 12.50) and lamb filets with a tomato, basil and goat-cheese (€ 14.80). This is the place you are likely to catch the dancing and general frenzy for which the Greeks are famous. If a criteria for judging a restaurant is by the quality of its website, Troja im Grünen Kranz (Stürzer-str. 38, Laim; Tel 56 24 70), wins by far. Check out the info-packed site, www.troja-munich. de, for reservations, a map, and photographs of past events, as well as a detailed menu—so you can salivate before you arrive. With a nicely designed outside garden as well as endorsements from local Greeks, this spot promises to deliver.
Need a sure bet? Paros (Rumfordstr. 14, 22 80 01 28) must be doing something right because it's been in business for 30 years! One oft-mentioned Greek spot is Kalami, located near Rosenheimer Platz (Kellerstr. 45). Although I haven’t dined there yet, it is next on my list.
