November 2007
Going Japanese
Finding the good, avoiding the bad
Finding a decent Japanese meal in Munich can be the same ecstasy-to-hell experience as feasting on puffer fish: the delicacy gourmands prize for its subtle taste, but that can be poisonous if not properly prepared. Although you won’t find this item on a Munich menu, several restaurants do offer a wide selection of high-quality dishes in lovely Asian-designed rooms. But beware: Service can be abysmal and the prices quite shocking. We’ve polled those in the know and trekked to the hotspots. Here’s what we’ve found.
Kaito (Gabelsbergerstr. 85), not far from Stiglmaierplatz, is often mentioned as the best option in town. The reason is clear from the moment you walk through the door. A friendly staff bestows prompt greetings and diners are escorted to one of the many secluded areas that create an intimate atmosphere. To satiate all cravings, try the Fuku Menu (€ 54 for one, €96 for two): a mix of appetizers, a bowl of miso soup, and a selection of sashimi (the delectable raw slices), tempura (fried, lightly-battered vegetable and seafood), sushi (the rice-and-fish rolls), a fish or chicken entrée and dessert. After this meal you can whole-heartedly exit the restaurant saying “
gochisoosama deshita (that was a feast),” the traditional saying of gratitude for an excellent dinner. If you are a hand-roll fan, Kaito will whip you up a concoction of your choice. One Munich Japanese food expert claims this spot has the best tempura in town.
While scores of Japanese restaurants and take-outs have come and gone here,
Shoya owner Kenji Oya has slowly expanded his business over 15 years. He now owns a total of five locations: two restaurants and three takeouts. This diversification allows Oya to import ingredients and fish in large quantities, and the quality and pricing of Oya’s food also benefits from this setup. Oya regularly flies to Japan and Spain to buy and monitor his product, and ships to a central Munich kitchen to ensure quality between all of the locations.
A stone’s throw from the Hofbräuhaus, the Platzl 3
Shoya location is a small storefront room connecting to a well-designed second-story restaurant. The menu is enormous and has the benefit of photos, if you are not so sure about your selections. Start with the Edamame (€ 4.50), which are boiled soybeans served in the pod. For the newbie: The beans are removed from the pod to eat, and it is totally acceptable to do this by sucking them out in your mouth and discarding the pod. Shoya serves them warm, so specify if you’d prefer them cold. Other appetizers include Horenso Gomaae (€ 4.80), spinach with ground sesame sauce, a specialty of the house, and Gyoza (€ 5.80), commonly called pork dumplings, which are a tasty and well-seasoned treat. Nigiri sushi fans will enjoy both the Maguro (tuna, € 2.50 per piece) and Sake (salmon, € 2.50 per piece) which were incredibly fresh and tasty on a recent night. If you or you dinner partner are just beginning sushi exploration and not ready to jump into the raw waters, order the Unagi (€ 3.50), which is cooked eel served with a sweet sauce or the Ebi (€ 3), cooked shrimp. Lunchtime Bento boxes (€ 12.80–14.80) are a complete meal with teriyaki meat or fish, vegetable, rice, salad, fruit and miso soup. There is also a
Shoya takeout a few doors away at Orlandostr. 3, and one at the Viktualienmarkt (Frauenstr. 18). Prices at the takeouts are slightly less expensive that the Platzl and Ehrengutstrasse restaurants.
Theresienstrasse offers two Japanese options.
Tokami (#54, on the corner of Türkenstrasse) has an elegant interior of dark wood and black lacquer. Take a seat at the sushi bar and sample from the complete Nigiri, Maki and Ura-Maki selections. To start, order the Harumaki Gao: a spring roll with a twist, filled with shrimp, vegetable and chicken (€ 5).
There are several “running sushi” restaurants in town, but few offer much worth sampling. The best chance is right down the street at
Tenmaya, (Theresien-str. 43) which looks like a fairly basic running sushi spot from the front window, but in fact is a full-service restaurant. The belt has 50 options and the € 11.80 price (€ 19.80
at dinner) includes a bowl of miso soup to start. Children get an absolute thrill out of it and the dinner price for kids under 10 years old is just € 10.80. Tenmaya also has unique Zashiki rooms: screened private dining areas seating from 2 to 30 people. Yes, these are the take-your-shoes-off-and-sit-on-the-cushion rooms, but blessedly the tables are sunken so diners are not relegated to uncomfortable leg cramps. See
www.tenmaya.de to peruse the large menu. Soba soup dishes with buckwheat noodles, and Udon, traditional flour noodles, are recommended here. <<<
