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February 2008

Mittenwald

Stradivari and Guarneri are often associated with the world’s greatest string instruments, musicians and international music halls. Presumably, not many people associate a small Bavarian town at the Austrian border with the vaunted names of these violin-makers.
Mittenwald is situated at the foot of the Karwendel mountain range. Though the town’s name is derived from mitten (im) Wald (in the middle of the forest), it is located on what was once the main trade route between Verona and Augsburg. Up until the 17th century, its wealth was founded on trade, and gates and barrel vaults at the market still recall the heyday of merchant traffic. Later, the mercantile importance of the town declined due to a shift of merchant activities to Bozen. Difficult years followed for the Mittenwald community, and were only mitigated when Matthias Klotz (1653–1743) returned from Italy with the craftwork of violin-making. Klotz had studied with the famed Nicola Amati, among whose pupils were Andrea Guarneri and most likely Antonio Stradivari. In Mittenwald, however, Klotz was the founder of a craftsmanship tradition that has lasted until today, and upon which the town’s violin school opened in 1853.
In 1930, the house in which Klotz was born was turned into a violin-making museum. Along with an exhibition on the town’s history, the museum gives insight to the art of violin-making and its specific development in Mittenwald. A comprehensive collection of violins and plucking instruments includes exhibits on baroque masters Matthias and Sebastian Klotz, as well as on contemporary models from the town’s violin workshops. Only a few minutes from the center, another museum displays rather peculiar exhibits of the Wolpertinger, an ur-Bavarian fantasy creature with wings, a buckhorn and bunny ears. The multitudinous variations of this hybrid species at the But no museum visit can substitute promenading through the picturesque streets of Mittenwald. When Goethe stopped for a night on his way to Italy, he called Mittenwald a “picture book.” Even today, many houses are adorned with beautiful Lüftlmalerei, a Bavarian variation of Trompe-L’oeil applied with fresco technique. The colorful ornamental paintings of St. Peter and Paul are exceptional examples of Lüftlmalerei and the parish church is justly deemed to be one of Upper Bavaria’s most beautiful baroque churches. In addition, while strolling through town, the omnipresent imposing view of Karwendel is an inspiration for planning great leisure activities beyond the touring of Mittenwald landmarks. Karwendel is the largest range of the Northern Limestone Alps and boasts of a vast recreation area. At least 21 Alpine huts (open May to October) and three mountain railways offer an ample infrastructure for hikers of all skills. Common hiking trails with Natur- lehrpfade (nature study paths) were created in order to introduce the diverse Alpine flora in the region. Brochures of all paths can be downloaded or ordered at www.karwendel.org. Mountain-biking is also possible in some parts of the “Alpine Park Karwendel.” For further information on Alpine tours, accommodations and special events, see www.mittenwald.de. <<<