February 2008
Two Stars & a Blue Star Train
Among restaurant owners and their chefs, there is sometimes the hint of a murmur that the receipt of a Michelin star is a rather ambivalent honor. The infelt pressure to maintain kitchen standards rises and may even stifle culinary experiments. Besides, Michelin Guide’s evaluations are often deemed conservative. An award might implicate an air of conservatism, about which especially innovative chefs feel conflicting. As soon as a star is assigned though, all skepticism is replaced by pride.
This year, two Munich restaurants have been admitted to the halls of the culinary gods. In 2006, delicatessen store
Dallmayr—which enjoys a 300-year reputation for greatness—opened a gourmet restaurant at its flagship store on Dienerstr. 1. Set on the first floor above the store, noble ambience and professional service await guests at Dallmayr restaurant. The testers of the Michelin Guide praise chef Diethard Urbansky’s classic kitchen and were especially impressed by the scallops with chicory and a nut-butter-froth. As a main dish, turbot with stuffed artichokes á la nage are recommended. A chocolate soufflé with marinated blood orange slices and tahitian vanilla ice cream tops a perfect dinner, at a price of € 115. À la carte prices range from € 63 to € 87.
While
Tantris at Johann-Fichte-Str. 7 has been holding on to two Michelin stars for decades, the associated
Terrine restaurant—run by Tantris owner Fritz Eichbauer’s son—was awarded a star for the first time in the 2008 guide. This choice may indicate a change of the guide’s classic standards to slightly more up-to-date criteria. Chef Jakob Stüttgen has been working at exquisite Munich kitchens since 2003. After stops at restaurants
Walter und Benjamin and
Blauer Bock, he joined Terrine upon its opening in 2005. Stüttgen and his young team stand for a creative French cuisine with a Mediterranean appeal: Lukewarm Danube lox garnished with leeks and potato noodles, followed by Scotch filet, oxtail ragout, and red wine onions are among Terrine’s savory creations. A mousse of passion fruit served with white chocolate ice cream probably tastes best in the sun on the restaurant’s patio, but the Art Noveau interior and reasonable prices—at noon dishes start from € 23, from € 52 at night—pleasantly ease the wait for warmer temperatures. In addition, Terrine offers an excellent selection of wines, assembled by sommelier Benjamin Karsunke.
Italian restaurant
Aquarello, the hotel restaurant of
Königshof,
Mark’s at the Mandarin Oriental, and Alfons Schuhbeck’s
Südtiroler Stuben have preserved their stars this year.
Another culinary attraction that was not granted a star, but carries one in its name, stops at Moosach train station through March 28. The
Blue Star Train is a remodeled 1950s express train and used to be a symbol of progress, velocity, and luxury. Jürgen Drexler lovingly altered the train’s interior to create a temporary gourmet restaurant on wheels. Friday through Sunday, one can dine in various elegant cabins called Blue Star Lounge, Red Saloon, and Blue Saloon. All dishes are served on fine porcelain in accordance with the cabins’ exquisite interior design. On offer are a three-course menu (€ 35) up to a six-course menu (€ 59). But don’t be misled by the train’s inscription: “Schuhbeck’s Blue Star Train.” Though
Alfons Schubeck’s party service caters on special occasions, the quotidian cooking operation lies in the hands of Drexler, who nonetheless concocts nifty menus each month including unique sorbet creations and a special Blue Star Train cocktail. For further details on this extravagant dining opportunity, visit
www.blue-star-train.de. Reservations are requested at (0821) 54 15 12. <<<
