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May 2008

Exquisite Excursions

RESTAURANTS AND RECREATION IN THE MUNICH AREA

Idyllic landscapes, exercise in the fresh air, landmarks and cultural entertainment, culinary delights: Some might need an extensive vacation to indulge in all those leisure activities. Multitasking relaxers, however, can enjoy these delights and more within Munich’s environs. Here is a selection of possible destinations a short drive away that will please the body, soul and tastebuds.
The Ammersee region south of Munich is home to many treasures, and Schloss Seefeld is one them. This baroque castle sitting at the top of a steep canyon in the Aubach Valley is a vibrant cultural center that hosts numerous events, from concerts and readings to theater performances. The castle, which has been in possession of the Count Toerring-Jettenbach family since the 15th century, also houses a movie theater, exquisite shops for the fashion-savvy, interior design and craftworks, as well as a satellite of the Munich Egyptian Museum. The in-house restaurant Bräustüberl is located in the heart of the castle and serves Törring beer, which has been brewed by the Toerring-Jettenbach family since 1601. As for food, the restaurant offers traditional Bavarian dishes peppered with modern flavors. During the summer, the Bräustüberl also opens its beergarden in the palace courtyard. The S-Bahn train station Hohendorf, Seefeld (S5) is about 1.5 kilometers away from Schloss Seefeld. To get there by car, take the A96 to Lindau and exit at Oberpfaffenhofen, Herrsching, Weßling. It is also possible to bike from the Weßling S-Bahn train station and ride along Lake Weßling passing by the Mariae Himmelfahrt church, whose 100-year-old clock is wound by hand daily.
On the west shore of the Ammersee near Utting, the Alte Villa awaits leisure-seeking visitors. The restaurant is a comfortable space with wood-paneled walls and carefully chosen Art Nouveau furniture. The terrace offers picturesque views across the lake to the Alps. Chefs Susantha Stübben and Urte Albrecht head an upscale kitchen producing exquisite meals and refraining from playful experiments. The menu includes fried fingerling on garlic chive risotto (€ 19.50) and Nebraska Rib-eye on shallot confit and Lyon potatoes (€ 26.50). Aside from the restau- rant, the Alte Villa is also home to a beergarden. It is customary to bring your own food, but the afford- able Brotzeit offerings and grilled goods are also an appetizing alternative. Through September, Dixieland bands play at the beergarden on Sundays and holidays, from 11 am to 2:30 pm. Utting is about 40 kilometers away from Munich and can be reached via the A96 to Lindau. However, a more spectacular approach is to ride the S5 to Herrsching and then change to one of the steamers that take you across the lake to Utting.
Further southwest of Ammersee, a walk to the top of Auerberg is another day trip to whet your appetite. Start your tour in Bernbeuren, where the unique Molkereimuseum (dairy museum) informs you on the traditional production process of cheeses, yogurts and Quark, and follow the beautiful path through the Feuerstein Canyon. The walk leads along a creek, past a small waterfall and through a game reserve. Across the Jägersteig (steep trail) it takes about seven kilometers to reach the peak of Auerberg. In 1055-meter altitude, enjoy the panoramic view and maybe even count the more than 400 villages that are alleged to be in sight from the mountaintop. Or, just get right down to dining at the Panorama-Gasthof, a family business that proffers hearty Bavarian meats and side dishes with a Mediterranean touch. In the afternoon, homemade cakes entice hikers with a sweet tooth. Bernbeuren can be reached best by car via B2 to Weilheim and B472 toward Marktoberdorf. There are also a train connection and a bus connection to Bernbeuren, but unfortunately neither is operated on Sundays.
In order to combine culture, exercise and good food, Obing in the west of Munich may be a suitable destination. Around Obing Lake, a sculpture path has featured the works of artists of the Chiemgau region since 1999. It takes a little more than an hour to follow the circular trail along the shore of the lake, where more than 20 creations of stone, steel and wood have been installed to interact with their natural surroundings. When hunger pangs hit, make your way to the Gasthaus Oberwirt, a gorgeous estate on Obing Lake with a butcher and a large outdoor seating area set under lush chestnut trees. The menu features the best goods of the region cooked in a refined way. Try the tartar of pike perch and pear with trout caviar and salad (€ 8.80) as a starter. Prawns with hash browns, mango slices, zucchini, cherry tomatoes and pesto (€ 10.60) are a light alternative to the savory selection of meat dishes from Wiener Butterschnitzel (€ 14) to duck breast with an almond crust, an orange-rosemary jus, fried pumpkin and potato noodles (€15.60). Chestnut mousse with vanilla ice cream (€ 6.40) or fresh goat cheese with watermelon, thyme honey, frosted walnuts and marinated plums (€ 6.30) round out a summer day in Obing, which may be as enchanting as a full week’s worth of vacation elsewhere. <<<

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