July 2008
Get your Feet Wet
Exploring Escapes from the Urban Jungle
In comparison to the sweltering heat of other cities, summer in Munich is relatively endurable. The Bavarian capital enjoys balmy days because of its location in a climatic transition zone. The Atlantic climate of cool, yet humid summers comes in from the West to meet over the city with hot and dry continental air, creating diverse weather conditions. There are days, though, when meteorology is gone with the wind and the urban heat drives city residents to jump in the drink. Munich’s many outdoor pools offer refreshment, but there are also a number of nearby lakes with cool waters and even cooler recreation areas.
One of the lakes closest to the city is the
Feringasee, created in the 1970s when gravel was quarried to pave a new section of the
Autobahn. Today, the Feringasee has been turned into a leisure reservation inviting sporty swimmers to cross the 32-hectare sheet of water, and casual bathers to enjoy a relaxed swim through the clean and energizing lake. An artificial sand beach facilitates easy access to shallow waters, and doubles as a wet playground for children. There is also a secluded nudist area, and parts of the lake are marked off for windsurfers. Volleyball courts and a beer garden complete the various offerings. Admittedly, the 30,000 daily visitors put Feringasee in another league from the secluded Bavarian lakes and their Alpine panorama. Getting there, however, can be idyllic. Bike along the Isar to Unterföhring and then through fields of red poppies and corn. An extensive parking area accommodates those who need to bring heavy accessories that won’t fit in a bike basket. To get to Feringasee, take the M3 Kreisstrasse, which will lead you to Stichstrasse and ultimately, to the lake. Busses 88 and 233 also stop a few hundred meters away from Feringasee.
A more intimate option just a few kil-ometers away is the Unterföhringer Lake, better known as the
Poschinger Weiher. This charming pond is part of the Isarauen nature preserve, and surrounded by lush foliage. Even though this setting seems natural, it also used to be a gravel pit, from which an Isar canal was built after World War I. Today, it’s transformed into a charming oasis that holds some of Bavaria’s cleanest waters and a small bird protection island in the middle of the lake. The pond’s restaurant, Seegarten, caters to guests hun-gry from swimming with sausages, noodles or french fries. The friendly shouts of the service staff add to the familial atmosphere. The Poschinger Weiher is located at the en-trance of Unterföhring—a perfect distance for a bike ride from Munich, but also accessible by the S8 and Busses 188 and 231.
Northwest of Munich,
Feldmochinger See, Lerchenauer See and the Fasaneriesee make up the “Lake Triangle.” The first is the most popular of the three, since the bike route there from the city leads through picturesque meadows and fields. At Lake Feldmoching, dragonflies swirl around the heads of bathers, Eurasian coots nest at the shore and a flourishing carp population is testament to high water quality. These natural wonders, however, are often obscured by thick clouds of smoke: Feldmochinger See is a mecca for barbecue enthusiasts. A visit to this lake—especially later in the day—is perhaps only tolerable for those who join in and fire up a grill. The Feldmochinger See is located near the A99, at the Ludwigsfeld exit. With public transportation, the lake can be reached by the S1 to Feldmoching and—only on weekends—with Bus 172.
Pedalling to
Deininger Weiher definitely counts as a day’s workout, but the relax-
ing destination will leave you refreshed for the trek back home. Enfolded by a landscape
of reeds, this marsh lake is a tranquil re-fuge from the city’s rush. For the ambitious, a great ten-kilometer hiking trail starts from here and leads to either Ascholding or Icking. For the hungry, the Waldhaus Deininger Weiher restaurant provides delicate Bavarian cuisine that far exceeds the usual culinary options (and prices) of other lake inns. The self-service beer garden, on the other hand, serves inexpensive hearty food: fuel for swimming, hiking and biking, and anything else you get into. To reach Deininger Weiher by car, you will have to drive from Grünwald through Strasslach to Großdingharting, where signposts will direct you to the lake.
These are just a selection of the many lakes near Munich. For those with cars or superhuman endurance, there are even more options. South of
Lake Starnberg, about 19 smaller and larger lakes known as the
Osterseen lie in wait to be explored by city dwellers. True connoisseurs of lakes in the Munich region, however, will recommend paying a small entrance fee to visit the
Steinsee and the
Buchsee. Both are privately owned. While the keepers of
Steinsee run a professional business at their picturesque lake, the Buchsee is associated with a farm. There, bathers gobble up homemade cakes and fresh milk after a swim in the marshland water with a mountain view. Steinsee is located in the Ebersberg region and can be reached via Höhenkirchner Forst and Oberpframmern. The Buchsee belongs to Münsing, a picture-perfect Bavarian village marked at an exit on the A95 after Starnberg.
Have fun testing the waters! <<<
