July 2008
A Bite of Fresh Air
One of the key elements of a memorable summer is savoring a great meal outdoors. Beneath a cloudless sky, fresh air seems to stoke the tastebuds and flavors unfold more intensely. Thanks to the city’s Biergarten culture, there are extensive possibilities for casual al fresco dining. In addition, there are even a few rare spots that offer the same airy setting, but with comfortable seating, refined cooking, and impeccable service you won’t find at a Biergarten.
St. Emmerams Mühle is one of these adorable hybrids of restaurant and beer garden. The mill was first mentioned in the 14th century, and 500 years later received a concession to serve beer and snacks to waiting costumers. Slowly but surely, this service brought in an increasing percentage of profits, and milling finally stopped after World War I. Today, the historic restaurant enjoys a picturesque location in the Isar meadow near Oberföhring. Shadowed by chestnut trees and enveloped by a lush garden, diners enjoy regional cuisine with a modern touch. Classics such as cold roast with grated horseradish, a gherkin, salad and fresh-baked bread (€ 8.90) or homemade
Obazder (€ 7.30) are dished up alongside sophisticated concoctions such as fried prawns on spinach beet salad in a coconut dressing with
Krupuk (€ 13.60). St. Emmerams Mühle is most easily accessible by bike. Just ride along the right side of the Isar shore out of the city to the north. Cosimastrasse toward the English Garden also leads to
St. Emmeram 41.
Hidden away in the Herzogpark,
Wirtshaus im Grüntal is a snug little farmhouse surrounded by a gorgeous chestnut garden. The ripple of a nearby creek adds to the garden’s idyllic atmos-
phere. On Sundays between noon and 5 pm, parents can dine in even greater peace, while a babysitter takes care of the kids. Bavarian and Austrian cooking complement each other on the menu. Liver dumpling soup garnished with fresh chives (€ 5)
and aspic with red onions, pumpkin seed dressing and fried potatoes (€ 8.90) are among the tasty starters. Main courses generally focus on meat: from roast pork in a dark beer sauce (€ 13.20) and duck with red cabbage (€ 19.70) to veal chop with herbs (€ 24.50). Don’t miss out on the homemade cakes (€3.90) and the apple strudel with vanilla ice cream (€ 6.20).
These sweet treats alone are worth the trip to Grüntal, situated near the last stop of Bus 187 (Rümelinstrasse).
Two castles in the Munich area also extend their gastronomic service outdoors during the summer. Almost three hundred years ago, the
Asam Schlössl in Thalkirchen was the country house of famed court painter Cosmas Damian Asam. The architectural gem fell into disrepair after his death, but was renovated and turned into a restaurant in 1993 by the Augustiner brewery. The beautiful frescos by the former artist-in-residence fight for diners’ attentions with the verdant garden. Here, friendly staff dressed in
Dirndls and
Lederhosen serve organic dishes. Try the boiled corned beef with a warm potato salad (€ 13.50) or the pikeperch filet on tarragon sauce with spinach and potatoes (€16.50). A variety of salads (€ 6.50–10.50) and soups (€ 3.80–4.60) are perfect light meals for a warm day. Located at Maria-Einsiedel-Strasse 45, Asam Schlössl is only a stone’s throw away from the Hellabrunn Zoo. Bus 57 stops near the castle.
Schlosswirtschaft, part of the Schleissheim castle, requires more of a trek. (Hop the S1 to Oberschleissheim, and it’s located 15 minutes from the station.) A large beer garden awaits about a thousand culinary pilgrims, while the restaurant’s terrace offers a more exclusive atmosphere with a view of the palace garden and the new castle. The menu consists of Bavarian fish and
meat concoctions, priced between € 10 and € 20. The hearty
Brotzeiten (snack plates), including
Bayerischer Wurstsalat (German sausage salad, € 6.50) or the
Bauernpresssack (head cheese, € 5.10) are generous portions at more moderate prices. Suitably fueled up from your meal, you should end your trip with an exploration of the formidable castle grounds.
The
Insel Mühle in Untermenzing (Von-Kahr-Strasse 87) proudly claims to offer one of Munich’s most stunning outdoor seating areas. Indeed, the unique garden arrangement of the estate does not disappoint. Diners sit beneath a magnificent roof of leaves and the Würm River, which runs along the Insel Mühle, provides a refreshing climate on hot days. In keeping with its paradisiacal accommodations, the Insel Mühle runs an excellent kitchen. Steak tartar is garnished with a chili-honey marinade and quail eggs (€ 15). Pickled salmon trout with asparagus and a bear’s garlic cream (€ 11) also make up the
menu’s
Schmankerln (delicacies), which can be savored daily from 11 am through 10 pm.
Some say that St. Peter controls the weather from the pearly gates. Thus—with tongue firmly in cheek—the
Weißes Bräuhaus in Berg am Laim (Baumkirche-ner Str. 5) has announced that the beer garden will be open through October, as long as St. Peter agrees with it. The cooking of the restaurant’s Bavarian classics does not lie in the hands of saints, but a skillful staff creates heavenly dishes that are pleasantly priced. A small playground keeps children happy and within sight of watchful parents, who can make toasts with Tegernsee beer: to the patron saint of the weather or the great pleasures of a culinary outing. <<<
