Salzburg - the musical village of Mozart and Rogers and Hammerstein
The first time i visited salzburg, it was July — high tourist season. In the first few hours of my self-guided walking tour, I happened upon the occasional American tourist spinning in circles, arms spread wide, singing giddily “The hills are alive …” — a performance I am sure none of them would be caught giving in public back home. But something about being in Europe gives visitors an anonymity too tempting to resist. And though somewhat cliché when describing a small European city, “charming” is the adjective most suitable to Salzburg. Visitors are so enchanted by the narrow streets, the beautifully preserved architecture and the majestic statues that they literally sing in the streets. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in Salzburg on January 27, 1756. Though it is well known that he abhorred the city, that hasn’t stopped residents from capitalizing, to some degree, on the fact that this is his birthplace. Nor has it curbed the city’s genuine affection for the great composer and his music. The International Mozarteum Foundation runs a museum at Getreidegasse 9, the house in which he was born. Unless you are a devout fan of classical music history, you may be disappointed in the display. The small house and the street in which it lies are packed with tourists. The exhibits inside include musical instruments, such as Mozart’s harpsichord and childhood violin, portraits of the family and correspondence. The items on display could just as well be placed in any museum devoted to music or history — the apartment itself is not refurbished to look as it did when the Mozart family lived there. Another apartment, though, that of former neighbor Babette von Moll at the back of the house, has been redecorated in the style of a burgher’s home in Mozart’s time — right down to the utensils. What chocolate-lover can resist the velvety smooth confection of a Mozart Kugel? The bite-size balls of chocolate are filled with a tasty mixture of marzipan and nougat. Chocolatiers line the streets of Salzburg, window displays piled high with the red and gold foil-wrapped treat that bears Mozart’s portrait. One of the supreme examples of Mozart kitsch, it is nonetheless an ideal souvenir. Strolling along the east bank of the Salzach, you may witness artists busily working as they gaze across the river to the pristine Baroque gardens of Mirabell Palace. The Neoclassical building — where Prince Otto of Bavaria was born on July 1, 1815 — now houses the municipal administration and a library. Regal gardens are the palace’s most interesting feature — enormous statues depicting mythological figures line the paths. Walking among perfectly tended rose bushes, you may feel like an aristocrat yourself. On the other hand, the nearby gnome garden awakens your inner child. Tucked away to one side of the palace grounds, the small park is filled with statues of merry dwarfs. In the sporadic moments that you find yourself alone there, it is easy to imagine the stone figures coming to life. From almost any spot in Salzburg, the formidable Hohensalzburg Fortress crowning Mönchsberg (Monk’s hill), cannot be overlooked. Built in 1077 at the behest of Archbishop Gebhard and expanded upon considerably in the early 16th century by Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach, it is the largest, fully-preserved fortress in Europe. There are two ways to reach Hohensalzburg. A funicular railway, built in 1892 and steadily improved upon since, whisks passengers to the top for ATS 76 (including return trip and entrance to the museum) or the more physically fit can ascend the steep grade on foot — free of charge. The property remained unconquered by enemies throughout its history and, after a look around the castle museum’s “weapons and armor” section, it is clear why. Cannons stand peeking through the windows of the fortress walls just as they have for centuries. A tour inside the castle chambers reveals an exquisite display of late Gothic art. Massive wooden carvings abound and ornamental paintings decorate the walls. On the southern outskirts of Salzburg, at the base of Hellbrunn hill, an eponymous country estate delights visitors with its world-renowned fountains. Commissioned by Markus Sittikus of Hohenems, Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg, in 1612, the palace reveals his love of Italian art and culture. Famed architect Santino Solari designed the grounds, which are adorned by numerous man-made fountains fueled by natural springs. These are surrounded by a fascinating assortment of stone figures. As with all European cities, Salzburg has its share of beautiful churches. The Baroque Benedictine Abbey of St. Peter is also home to a lovely and intimate cemetery, where former illustrious residents of Salzburg, including composer Michael Haydn, Nannerl Mozart (sister of the renowned composer) and Santino Solari, are buried. Located to the right of the entrance to St. Peter’s, is the Stiftskeller St. Peter — the oldest restaurant in Salzburg, dating from 803. A grotto forms the outdoor seating area, creating an ambiance unmatched by other culinary establishments in the city. Cozy indoor seating is also available. Salzburger Nockerl, a delicate soufflé made from the simplest ingredients, is the house speciality. If you’re eager to spot sites featured in The Sound of Music, you’ll be happy to know there are plenty of opportunities to experience the Tyrolean countryside as Julie Andrews did. For ATS 350, buses take twirl-hungry tourists to locations featured in the 1965 box-office hit. The fictional Von Trapp family’s music serves as a fitting accompaniment to the bus ride. <<< Trains: Leave from the Munich Hauptbahnhof daily every 30 minutes. Salzburg City Tourist Office, Auerspergstr. 7, A- 5020 Salzburg, Tel. (0043/662) 88 987-454 or -406, fax (0043/662) 88 98 74 35 Bob’s Special Tours and the Sound of Music tour, Tel. (0043) 662 84 95 11.