An article about the differant ways and places to celebrate Fasching in southern Germany.
The rural regions of southern and southwestern Germany are rich in tradition. Customs dating to the Middle Ages or even the early Teutons are cultivated and preserved with great care. At no point is this more evident than during Carnival season, known as Fasching in Bavaria and Fas(t)nacht in Swabia. Since the 12th century, Carnival has been a time of frolic before the forty days of Lenten fasting. Many Fastnacht and Fasching customs, however, pre-date Catholicism and are of pagan origin. Based on ancient cult and magic acts, they invoke protection from demons and evil spirits, while ousting winter and awakening spring. This explains why Fastnacht is such a noisy affair – the rattling of bells and cracking of whips and Saublodern (a balloon-like pig bladder attached to a stick) keep evil powers at bay while rousing the good spirits. Masks and costumes serve a similar purpose: only in disguise does one dare face demons. the days when munich was a hotbed of Fasching activity are long gone. Today most Fasching events in the Bavarian capital are balls held behind closed doors. Few people wear costumes in public, and the traditional costumes of the Altmünchner Fasching have all but disappeared. To see a real outdoor masquerade, leave Munich and head for the countryside, especially the Firstalm-Fasching at Spitzingsee. On Fasching Sunday (Feb. 14) the ski run becomes a runway for alpine-sport fans dressed in the wildest costumes. The Firstalmkönig and jury award prizes to the skiers in the most original outfits. Characters for which the Munich Fasching was famous still put in appearances at the Firstalm – the Büchslmadam, a farm girl from the Dachau back country, or Lucke, a pert young urban fellow, both dance among the revellers. on the same day Nuremberg hosts a Fasching event with historic flair – the reenactment of a legendary medieval pageant depicting the uprising of oppressed Nuremberg craftsmen in 1349. Since the seventies, the Schembart Society has been working to revive the tradition of the Schembartlauf. Based on documents from the 15th century, the Schembartläufer, who represent the leaders of the revolt and wear the red-and-white costumes of their precursors, march through the streets of the old town. The Schembartlauf, set against the backdrop of Nuremberg, brings the Middle Ages to life again. a highlight of alpine Fasching can be found in Mittenwald (info: 08823-33981) and Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Here, the Schellenrühren, a tradition also dating back to the 15th century, has become a major tourist attraction. Dressed in short, embroidered lederhosen and carrying beautiful wooden masks depicting young men’s faces, the Schellenrührer have a broad leather belt strapped around their waist, on which they carry several heavy cow bells, together weighing between 50 and 70 pounds. When the church clock strikes noon on Unsinniger Donnerstag (Foolish Thursday, Feb. 11), the parade of Schellenrührer winds through the streets in a rhythmic jump step, bells resounding with each step. It goes without saying that this is an exhausting affair, so the dancers will stop at every inn on their way. In Garmisch, each Schellenrührer teams up with a Vorläufer and they dance in pairs. Next in the parade are the Jacklschutzer. Dressed in short lederhosen, long white underpants, kerchiefs and sheeps’ wool jackets, they use a stretched blanket to launch a straw puppet, the Jackl, high into the air. Historic masks of the Werdenfelser Land can be admired in both Mittenwald and Garmisch. the old towns around the Bodensee are another cradle of Fastnacht tradition. Maneuvering the giant, 30-40-meter-high Fool’s Tree (a Carnival variant of the maypole) through the narrow streets of Stockach (info: 07771-920240) and then erecting it with the help of long poles and strong men is a spectacle that attracts the curious. But Stockach is best-known for the Narrengericht. The privilege of holding this annual “fools’ court” was granted to the town of Stockach in 1351. The tribunal consists of 15-20 Gerichtsnarren (court fools). Dressed in the attire of medieval aldermen with velvet doublets, black knee-breeches and green velvet coats trimmed with ermine fur, they exude a certain dignity despite their three-pointed fool’s caps and their not-so-serious duty. Peter Kaufmann, a member of the court, is always proud to recall that over the years the fool’s court has attracted many prominent politicians, among them Franz-Joseph Strauß, Norbert Blüm and Hans-Dietrich Genscher. “You have to stand before the Narrengericht before you become someone,” he likes to say. Lindau (info:08382-260030) is an especially attractive destination for the Fastnacht traveller. The foolish season starts with the Narrenwecken (waking of the fools) at six in the morning on Thursday, when members of the Narrenzunft (fools’ guild) march through town playing drums and trumpets. In the afternoon they put up a fool’s tree in front of the city hall and then storm the building. After the authorities have been dismissed, the guild proclaims the Narrengebote (fools’ laws). The Buzentanz, an old fertility dance, is performed as dusk settles on Friday evening. In a gruesome yet fascinating spectacle, the demons of winter and a devil fight for a cock which is eventually auctioned to the crowd. The climax of the Lindauer Fastnacht is reached at two on Sunday afternoon. The Narrensprung, a long pageant of witches, imps, fools and other historic Fastnacht figures wind its way through town to the delight of spectators. another famous Narrensprung can be seen in Rottweil (info: 0741-494280), the oldest town in Baden-Württemberg, which takes justifiable pride in hosting one of the most historic and traditional Fastnachts. The 3-hour pageant features thousands of fools in various costumes and takes place at 8:00 a.m. on Monday and Tuesday and is repeated again on Tuesday at 14:00. The star figure there is the Rottweiler G‘schellnarr who wears a white costume painted with oil colors and up to sixty bells on belts around his chest. A specialty of Lauingen (info: 09072-9980) is the Hexentanz on Thursday evening, the symbolic burning of the winter witch at a large stake on the market square, accompanied by the wild dancing and howling of hundreds of other witches. fasching has as many different faces as its manifold masks and costumes. Not only does Fasching in the Alpine regions differ considerably from the so-called Swabian-Alemannic Fastnacht, but every town and village has its own distinct traditions. Knowing the history of these customs isn’t a necessary part of Fasching. Eat fresh Krapfen, watch the pageants, and marvel at the masks, because Fasching is about having a good time! <<<