Tips for skiing in Bavaria and surrounding areas
One out of every five persons in Germany skis; a number that exceeds any other country in Europe. And why not? Jump in your car, on a train or bus, and within a couple of hours you're on slopes which offer some of the best skiing in the world. But as a newcomer to the area, or someone new to the sport, learning the ins and outs of alpine skiing around here may not be easy. Where do you go? Which areas offer the type of skiing you like? How do you take classes? How can you get there? Where can you stay? We've put together a loose guide to help beginning downhill skiers and those beginning to ski here to find their "ski legs." It would be impossible to talk about every ski resort, so this is a selection of some, in Germany and Austria only, which are within a day's or weekend trip from Munich. WHERE TO GO With a number of skiing areas within an hour's drive from Munich and a choice of literally hundreds in Austria, Bavaria is an ideal place for ski lovers to live. In Germany, the best skiing is in the Alps, between the Bodensee and Berchtesgaden. In Austria, the highest concentration of areas visited by Münchner are in the Arlberg mountains and in Tyrol, directly south of Bavaria. For more detailed information on ski areas, Der Grosse ADAC Ski-Atlas, available in most bookstores, has descriptions of alpine and cross-country ski areas around Europe. In addition, ski magazines, for example Ski-Paradiese '96, published by RV Verlag, give recommendations and information on selected ski areas, including descriptions of trails, the village, ski schools, lifts, ticket prices, accommodation and eating. BAVARIA Along with Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Oberstdorf is the closest Germany comes to the stature of the Austrian, French and Swiss world-class resorts, offering great skiing, hiking, three ice-skating rinks, casinos and concerts. Over 60 lifts bring skiers around three mountains with 44 km of advanced, medium and beginner trails; the Nebelhorn peak (2,224 m) offers some of the most challenging runs in Germany. From Oberstdorf, you can also ski over on the intermediate-level border access trail to the Kleinwalsertal resort area in Austria, where an additional 80 km await you. Oberstdorf is a two-hour drive from Munich and accessible by direct train. Tourist office: (08322) 70 00; snow information: (08322) 70 02 39. The Olympic resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen has 120 km of beginner- to advanced-level trails. At Garmisch and other resorts, the regular ski pass only covers one or some of the areas, so it's recommended to have some prior knowledge of the slopes before arriving. For longer stays at Garmisch, the "Happy Ski Card" is valid for all of Garmisch as well as nearby Mittenwald and Austria's Zugspitze and Seefeld. Tourist office: (08821) 18 06. Wooded trails, unusual for the region, characterize Brauneck, which has 34 km of mostly intermediate trails, and good powder skiing. Lenggries is accessible by direct train. Tourist office: (08042) 50 08 20. Spitzingsee is another smaller ski area whose close proximity makes it a favorite weekend destination for young people, families and snowboarders. Spitzingsee offers 30 km of mostly intermediate-level trails and is reachable almost entirely by highway. But beware: parking is limited. You can also take a train to Schliersee and then a short bus ride which drops you off near the lifts. Tourist office: (08026) 40 69; snow watch: (08026) 70 99. A short 15 km away is Bayrischzell, which offers 40 km of beginner and intermediate trails. The long runs down from the Wendelstein peak (1,835 m) are generally only open in high season and bring the skier through 930 m in altitude change. Tourist information: (08023) 648; snow: (08023) 428. The Chiemsee's Reit im Winkl boasts the best snow in the region. Included in its 50 km of mainly intermediate trails is the popular Steinplatte area (1,869 m), which is regarded as one of the most beautiful places to ski in Germany. Tourist office: (08640) 800 20-21. Berchtesgaden offers 50 km of mainly intermediate-level trails on four mountains; the sunny Hochschwarzeck and Rossfeld are favorites with families. The "Ski ohne Grenzen" pass allows skiers to go into the Austrian areas of Zinken and Bad Dürnberg. AUSTRIA Austria boasts some 4,000 lifts and over 20,000 km of trails at hundreds of resort areas all across the country. The main ski regions can be divided into six Austrian states: Vorarlberg in the western corner; Tyrol, from the Arlberg to the Kitzbühel mountains; Salzburger Land; Kärnten, along the Italian border; Steiermark, east of Salzburg; and Ober- and Niederösterreich around Vienna. The following are some of the more popular ski resort areas, as well as a couple of Geheimtips. The Arlberg mountains lie in the western corner of Austria and offer some of the best and most challenging skiing in the country. The world-class resorts St. Anton/St. Christoph, Zurs and Lech are possibly more famous for their apres-ski and nightlife than their skiing, but even skiers who dislike the "schicki-micki-ness" cannot resist the 260 km of Arlberg's characteristic wide, treeless slopes, deep powder and challenging faces. The ski pass "Arlberg gesamt" includes the St. Anton areas, Zurs and Lech. Another of Tyrol's world-class resorts, Kitzbühel/Kirchberg, or "schicker Kitz," is just south of the German border. In addition to being home to some of the biggest names in skiing and the most famous racing course in the Alps, Kitzbühel offers 158 km of trails from bunny slopes to slalom runs and deep-powder sections. The sunny Kitzbüheler Horn has a great area of open skiing runs around the top, especially popular with snowboarders. Prices are higher than other areas, but Kitzbühel is still a favorite day trip from Munich. St. Johann in Tyrol lies on the north side of the Kitzbüheler Horn and offers affordable, uncrowded skiing a good alternative for families and young people. St. Johann has 60 km of slopes, all beneath the tree-line and of varying difficulty. The popular Stubaier Gletscher ski area at Stubaital is the largest year-round ski area in Europe. The glacier is connected to three other skiing areas by shuttle bus. A down-to-earth resort for "serious" skiers, there are fewer schicki-mickis in Stubaital and a cap was put on expansion years ago. The entire area, a total of 80 km of trails, is covered under the ski pass. Other places in Tyrol to note are: Zillertal/Tuxertal, Ischgl, Alpachtal, Seefeld, Serfaus and Gurgl/Obergurgl. The large Skischaukel (a collection of connected ski areas) at the Gasteinertal, south of Salzburg, offers 200 km of varied skiing in four regions connected by shuttle bus and included in one pass. The villages offer luxury hotels, country lodges, swimming pools, casinos, gourmet restaurants and shopping centers. Also in Salzburger Land, Saalbach-Hinterglemm boasts 200 km of trails ranging from beginner to the notorious 4-km, experts-only slope at Schattberg. This international center offers modern lifts, few lift lines and affordable accommodation. A little further away, Katchberg is also a Skischaukel and a Geheimtip for the region. Free shuttle buses connect skiers to a total of 70 km of trails. Two other areas in Tyrol to make note of are the "Europe Sport Region" and Königsleiten. Though a bit further from Munich, the Karnten mountains on the Italian border aren't to be forgotten. The sunny family resort of Bad Kleinkirchheim has 85 km of mostly medium-level, wooded trails, and here a child skis for free under the family pass. Almost 90 percent of the smaller Heiligenblut's 55 km of trails lies in the sun. Its overshadowing Grosglockner, the highest mountain in the country, reaches a majestic 3,798 m. The area is a Geheimtip for deep powder skiers, with 5 km of expert runs. GETTING THERE Driving is usually the quickest and most direct way to the ski resorts, but can be problematic, particularly on weekends on the crowded highways south of Munich. Smaller ski areas also often have limited parking, and in Austria, mountain passes are closed in heavy snow storms. If you're without a car, its not a problem, however. Most ski areas are easily accessible by train, and the villages generally operate free shuttle buses. For train travelers, the Deutsche Bundesbahn (DB) offers a special "Zugfahrt & Skipass." This combination ticket includes round-trip transportation and a day ski pass to select areas. A ticket for Garmisch-Partenkirchen, for example, costs DM 73. (Shuttle rides from the train station to the ski areas are not included.) Contact DB at 194 19. Also ask about reduced train fare in combination with a ski vacation hotel booking at TUI Reisebüro. For longer train journeys on particular dates, the travel agency offers reduced train tickets. PACKAGE DEALS If you have a little flexibility in where you will take your vacation and when, package and last-minute deals are probably the easiest and cheapest ways to go skiing. Travel agencies, sports equipment stores and university organizations are some places to look for these deals. Package deals have set arrival and departure dates, and can include all or a combination of the following: transportation, accommodation, meals, ski instruction and a ski pass. INS Reisen, for example, this season is offering two-, four- and six-day trips to several Austrian resorts. Prices start at DM 159 and include bus transportation and lodging. WHERE TO STAY Accomodations at ski areas range from first-class hotels to private pensions, rooms in private homes and standard vacation rental apartments. You can also rent the more urige Hütt'n ("roughing it" cabins), where you share modest sleeping quarters with a group of people and can really experience Schifahr'n the traditional Bavarian/Austrian way. Names of reputable Hütten are often passed on word of mouth, but you can get a list of these cabins from the local tourist office. Accommodation prices vary during the season; you'll pay a good 10 percent more during peak times like Christmas and school vacations. Many places also offer special discounts during the season; three weeks for the price of two, eight days for the price of seven, pre-booking discounts, children's discounts or super-saver weeks. This information can be found through travel agencies or by calling the local tourist office. Or consult the TUI "Schöne Ferien!" guides and ski magazines for tips. For families, most ski resorts have day-care facilit ies and kiddie ski schools. TAKING LESSONS You can arrange ski lessons either directly at the resort (the local tourist offices have a list of schools) or via one of the many ski course organizers here in Munich. The two kinds of instruction offered are intensive lessons (Wochenskikurse) or day classes (Tagesskikurse). Two stores to check out for both day and intensive courses are Sport Scheck and Sport Schuster. Both have a good reputation for qualified and fun instruction for alpine and cross-country skiing and snowboarding, and they are also popular with all age groups. Day classes include round-trip transportation to the ski area and day-long instruction. They run several consecutive Saturdays or Sundays (some ski organizers also offer lessons on weekdays) at areas one to two hours from Munich, and classes are limited to 10 people. Sport Schuster's program includes six course levels from absolute beginners to advanced skiers. Prices range from DM 180 to DM 345, depending on the number of lesson days. Sport Scheck's day classes for alpine and cross-country skiing cost between DM 150 and DM 290. Ski passes are generally not included in day classes. Intensive courses are complete package deals and can be weekend, one- or two-weeks in length. These classes are the most effective way to learn, particularly for beginners, and are also a great opportunity to meet people and enjoy the Huttenzauber (apres-ski party in a cabin). Intensive courses are available through sports stores, catalogues of ski organizers and local travel agencies. Sport Schuster, for example, offers a one-week course in Sterzing, South Tirol for DM 955, which includes accommodation, lessons and ski pass. (The price without lessons is DM 760.) Note, however, that buying the ski pass beforehand through the organizer can be cheaper than buying at the lifts. Sport Scheck's extensive program of Wochenskikurse features five locations: Fugen/Zillertal, Badgastein, Sillian, Sterzing and Welschnofen, with prices for a one-week stay with lessons ranging from DM 649 to DM 1,359. The catalogue gives a detailed description of each region and accommodation. If you're not interested in lessons, but like the idea of an organized bus trip, Sport Scheck also organizes bus transportation to certain ski areas where you can pay per day. For students, the local Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität offers day and intensive ski courses which are considerably less expensive. Registration takes place at the beginning of the winter semester in November, and in January for spring classes. For details, check the program of the Zentrale Hochschule für Sport (ZHS), available at the Mensa building, in the main building at Geschwister-Scholl-Platz, and other locations. Avid skiers may be interested in looking into the Deutscher Alpenverein (German Alpine Club). Founded in 1869, DAV is the world's largest mountaineering association. Besides mountain climbing and hiking, the club also offers numerous winter sports courses and activities, including alpine and cross-country skiing. As a member you have insurance coverage during all of the DAV's activities and are granted discounts for accommodation and food in all of the International Mountain Climbing Association (UIAA)'s cabins. If you are a newcomer to the alpine region, you may find the Alpine ride-sharing agency useful. A regular yearly membership costs DM 82 and discounts are available for families, students and young adults. For more information, contact the Zentralstelle des DAV, Von-Kahr-Str. 2-4, 80997 München, 140 03-0. The Munich International Ski Club is an English-speaking leisure and sports club with a number of winter activities on its agenda. It organizes various day and week trips throughout the season to areas in Europe. It also has ski training sessions in the off-season. For information, call 691 71 73. RENTING EQUIPMENT So, you've signed up for a course, found transportation, accommodation and a destination. Now all you need are skis before you can finally go gliding (more or less elegantly) down the hill. For those who don't have their own boards, no problem. Though rental is not available directly in Munich, almost every ski area has rental shops on the mountain and/or in the village. Renting skis, boots and poles generally costs between DM 30 and DM 50. Shops are open throughout the season, but the safest bet is to make sure by contacting the local tourist office in advance. One last tip: Before you get on the road to indulge in the weisses Vergnügen on your own, call the weather forecast phone services (Alpine Auskunftstellen) for road and skiing conditions. For the Alps, call: (0190) 116011; Austria's Alberg and Tyrol: (0043) 11585; Austria's Salzburg region: (0043) 11584; ADAC weather service: 767 62 557.