The Wachau-Austria's most glorious stretch of the Danube
Objectively speaking, all Nature’s plots are equal. But some, to paraphrase George Orwell, are more equal than others. Take the Wachau, for example, a 25-mile-long stretch of land along the swirling waters of the Danube, between Krems and Melk in Austria. The area’s own feng shui, its tectonic geomancy, creates a perfect choreography between climate, landscape and soil. Spring, for example, begins early in the Wachau, bringing with it the soft hues of blooming apricot and cherry trees, whose fruit is famous throughout the country in the form of jam or fine schnapps. In the fall, the slopes on the left bank turn into a riot of reds and oranges as the vineyards shout a last hurrah after the harvest. At the same time, on the other side of the Danube, the sprawling Dunkelsteiner forest, steeped in mystery and ancient legends, dons its own polychrome coat. Summers, though not lacking in sun, are tempered by cool breezes that waft along the river.
It’s no wonder, then, that human beings settled here as early as 30,000 years ago. “Wahowa” was first mentioned in a document dating from AD 823 and alludes either to sentinels who were stationed along the river to keep an eye out for attackers, or to the tradition of catching fish, one of the river’s main bounties. The Romans, who were wont to adapt their own culture to the lands they occupied, brought wine to the area. Later came the Roman Catholic Church, which spread its seemingly limitless secular wealth around generously. In fact, two of Austria’s finest monasteries overlook the Wachau. The first is Stift Göttweig, a Baroque masterpiece by Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt, which dates from AD 1083. It stands guard over the entire region of Krems, from a hill on the right bank of the river. The other, Stift Melk, built in 1702, perches atop a rocky promontory overlooking the river and the town like a boastful rooster. Its dark yellow glows best in the evening sunlight, like the gold it is meant to represent. The library is one of the many treasures open to the public. It contains some 100,000 volumes, among them handwritten documents and incunabula — and a ceiling fresco by Paul Troger, who painted most of the monastery. In the treasury (Schatzkammer) some of the oldest items associated with Melk are on display, not least of all the gilded and bejeweled Melk Crucifix.
Churches as repositories of fine art are not lacking between Krems and Melk, whose spires have become trademarks of the towns. Like the adjacent monastery, Dürnstein’s steeple is blue, a reminder that God is concerned with the riches of heaven, not with earthly gold. Weissenkirchen’s church is located on an elevation and boasts a white tower next to its steeple. The roof of the Spitz church’s spire is a multicolored, pointillist design of shining tiles. The building costs of St. Michael’s, which stands near the Danube, were paid by grateful citizens who made it safely through the river’s dangerous rapids. Preeminent local artisans and painters crafted the interiors: “Kremser” Schmidt (1718-1801) executed the altar panel of the Spitz church, for instance. His opus magnus is arguably the altarpiece in the Dürnstein monastery, which depicts the beheading of St. Catherine.
Krems, the first stop on the way to the Wachau from Vienna, boasts a number of wonderful churches. Take a walk through town, beginning at the Parish Church at the center, where more of “Kremser” Schmidt’s works can be admired. On Fridays, it is surrounded by a lively farmer’s market, where victuals, from fresh apricots to sheep’s cheese, sausage and smoked salmon can be purchased. Up on the hill, accessible via stairs, is the Gothic Piarist Church, whose street-side walls are lined with the Stations of the Cross. The house of worship reflects an amalgamation of architectural styles spanning more than 700 years. The way back down will take you through the Hoher Markt (upper market), whose 13th-century Gozzo palace — which was built by a city judge — is now a restaurant. The section in which the Rathlos Café is located houses displays illustrating the building’s architectural history, and how successive generations have tried to support the collapsing structure. A walk in the pedestrian zone, from the Simandl Fountain to the Steiner Tor, the old town gate, is a must before leaving Krems.
Whether it be by Celts, Illyrians, Romans or the Catholic Church, settling the Wachau was no accident. The Danube, which served as a major “highway” connecting Eastern and Western Europe, generated its own economy. It was a link to the world beyond, to Vienna, Linz, Budapest, Passau. Krems, Dürnstein, Weissenkirchen, Spitz and other towns profited from the traffic by either collecting tolls, repairing ships, feeding the teams of up to 60 horses that were used to pull barges upstream or ferrying people and chattel across the river. The “rolling ferries” (Rollfähren), floats that use the Danube’s powerful current and a single cable to cross the river, are still in operation in several places, since the topography of the narrow valley makes bridge-building very difficult.
The shipping museum in Spitz, located to the west of town in, Erlahof Castle, documents the trials and tribulations of the Danube’s workers, and includes an early photo-reportage of log-rafting downstream to Hungary, tools of the shipbuilders’ trade and an Imperial riverboat replica. The former Dominican church in Krems houses two museums, one devoted to the town’s history, the other to viniculture in the region. Kloster Und (a local quip has it that it is called “Und,” meaning “and,” because it is between Krems and Stein) offers wine tasting and information about the wines produced here, notably those bearing the names of Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd.
The Wachau is replete with cobblestone streets lined with potted oleanders, rustic houses, quiet fountains, deep wells and low-arched doorways that open into arcaded courtyards. The best way to absorb the genius loci is to wander about the narrow streets, breath the fragrant air or listen to an acapella choir practicing before a Sunday service. Choose from numerous Buschenshänke, where, on shady terraces, visitors and locals alike enjoy the juice of the grape accompanied by wooden plates loaded with home-made sausages, sheep’s cheese, onions, pork roast, blood sausage (Plunzen), liptauer dip and crispy Wachauer rolls. In 1782, an Imperial edict gave vintners permission to serve their own produce to the public, and establishments that do so bear a sign depicting a bouquet of sorts (often a sun made of straw) decorated with streamers, hence the name “bush inn.”
Lastly, a special way to take in the Wachau from a dreamy distance is by embarking on one of the ferries of the DDSG (Danube Steamship Company), which has been operating ships on the river since 1829. The view is almost indistinguishable from what it was centuries ago, barring a few cars and tour buses, some modern buildings, the odd gas station or a gaggle of cyclists pedaling along the bicycle paths that line the valley on both sides. The old fortresses, weatherworn and gray, but still standing with the pride of battered veterans, silently tell their own tales of robber barons exacting egregious tolls, of Turkish incursions, of fair maidens and brave Crusaders. Ruine (ruin) Aggstein, for example, which stands atop a promontory in a meander near Aggsbach Dorf, was once owned by the knights of Kuenring, who allegedly hung a chain across the Danube to ensure no booty could escape. Evidence of how little the Wachau has changed over the years are the paintings of local artists that hang in the gallery of the Teisenhoferhof in Weissenkirchen. They reveal the same serene atmosphere, a blue Danube, narrow streets, houses built sometimes with slightly deranged angles and the quietly jovial people of the Wachau, whose eyes move slowly and precisely, as if used to watching ships go by or the inexorable passage of time.
By car: via the A1 Highway (exit Krems or exit Melk). Bicycle rental: Available on the “rolling ferries” for ATS 100 per day, with a free day awarded if you spend the night in any Wachau bed-and-breakfast.
