There's nothing fishy about great seafood in Munich
La Bretagne
Rablstr. 37
Tel. 48 72 20
Hours: Daily 18:30-1:00
In an age of fast food, multimedia and cell phones it is rare to find a restaurant that offers a real dining experience — ambiance, flair, attention to detail. In the tiny seafood establishment (approximately 15 tables) of La Bretagne, utterly charming waiters deliver the wine list and whisper discreetly in the ears of the male patrons to assure them that everything on the menu is made of the freshest ingredients. In other words, they can feel confident about their choice when ordering for a female dinner companion. Ordering for the woman, a long-dead gesture? Not here.
The evening is best begun enjoying a glass of the house champagne (DM 15) while perusing the day’s menu posted on a chalkboard. Appetizers range from the common to the highly unusual — such as the creamy pureed fish soup (DM 12) served with crusty baguette, or a generous portion of salmon tartar (DM 12), which comes atop a beautiful bed of loose-leaf lettuce. To dive into the French seafood experience, order the cold, mixed seafood platter (DM 25). The enormous platter consists of oysters on the half shell, shrimp, half of a crab and several raw sea snails (!). This choice is definitely not for the fainthearted, but if you fancy something you won’t find anywhere else in Munich, then it is a must.
Fish is not just a specialty at La Bretagne, it is usually the only thing on the changing main course menu. Don’t expect any fancy nouveau cuisine recipes though. Diners are given a choice of six to eight varieties of fish such as sole, catfish or sea devil (DM 34–DM 36) sautéed in olive oil and fresh basil. Sounds ordinary, but the results are outstanding. The tender meat slides easily from the bones and the accompanying ratatouille is a flavorful accompaniment.
Should you have room for dessert, then a mirabell sorbet (DM 14) or a dense slice of homemade chocolate torte with vanilla sauce (DM 11) is just the thing. If anyone still takes the time to create something simply romantic, it is the French — and they have done just that at La Bretagne.
FOOD 8, SERVICE 10, ATMOSPHERE 10
Das Riff
Mariahilfstrasse 24
Tel. (089) 65 10 22 58
Hours: Daily 11:30-15 and
18-24; closed Sun.
In an effort to describe something you can’t taste, restaurant reviewers often slip into the habit of using peppy, platitudinous terminology such as “fresh” and “baked to perfection.” Dass Riff is a fine fish restaurant, which is best labeled with yet another flowery word: fabulous.
With its view of Mariahilfplatz and its sunny-bistro interior, Dass Riff caters to the after-work crowd, as well as to those looking for a more high-brow experience. The fact that proprietor Richard Schuhbert employs a team of three, multicultural chefs — French, Hungarian and Vietnamese — is evident on the daily menu. Several fish varieties, such as squid and catfish, are stir fried with vegetables and served with basmati rice (DM 21 and 35, respectively).
These generously-portioned entrées — as well as spaghetti with scallops (DM 18.50) and Renke with almonds (DM 26) — are obviously intended to feed those who wish to eat well, without having to order more than one course. The real treat here, however, is to throw caution to the wind and experience the full menu. Elegant starters include succulent (no sand!) steamed mussels in a creamy chicken broth with onions (DM 11 small, DM 17 large) and artichoke carpaccio with raw tuna marinated in soy sauce and wine (DM 19). Dass Riff’s international kitchen is reflected in a choice of three soups: lemon grass with shrimp, cress with smoked salmon strips and lobster bisque (all DM 11). Some of the best main courses are served “nouvelle-cuisine-style” — big prices, small amounts, wonderfully presented. After tasting these, you will consider it money well spent. Jumbo shrimp with basmati rice (DM 38) consists of five not-so-large prawns, arranged in a circle with the shells they once inhabited. At the center lies a small lump of the Asian grain. Both crustacean and rice are masterfully spiced — red chilies and saffron prove that good things come in small packages. Displayed on triangular stoneware, the Loup de Mer (white fish filet) in a potato crust with grilled fennel (DM 34) astounds with its pungent Provençale herb flavor, strong enough to delight, mild enough not to overpower the spud coating. Lean, medium-rare lamb medaillions “dijonaisse” with velvety au gratin potatoes (DM 33) offer an alternative to those who prefer terrestrial fare to the fruits of the sea. Equally impressive desserts include coconut flan with ginger sauce (DM 12) and a thick slice of spicy baked apple torte with crème fraîche (DM 12). If all of the above seems light on adjectives, it is because there is but one exclamation that sums it up best: yum!
FOOD 9, SERVICE 7, ATMOSPHERE 7
