Tasty regional cuisine-without the kitsch
WEISSES BRÄUHAUS IM TAL Tal 7
Tel. 29 98 75
Hours: Daily 8:00-24:00
When in search of an authentic Bavarian restaurant in the city center, the diner is in danger of landing in a kitschy tourist trap where tasteless Schweinebraten and paste-like dumplings are served. The Weisses Brauhaus im Tal is a traditional Bavarian restaurant steeped in history (it dates from 1540). The Schneider family, however, which helped make the restaurant famous with its outstanding Weissbier, first got involved in 1872. Though the occasional Japanese tourist can be witnessed here, struggling with the skin of a Weisswurst or gaping at the sheer size and grandeur of a steaming leg of pork, the Weisses Brauhaus im Tal is without a doubt “the real thing.” Everything from the old Wirtshaus décor to the sarcastic Bavarian waitresses to the sumptuous, rib-sticking food is as wonderfully Bay’risch as it gets.
If you haven’t spent Sunday morning at the Weisses Brauhaus, you haven’t truly experienced Weisswurst. Munich’s best-known establishment for the Bavarian specialty follows a strict policy of serving the sausages only before noon, though, on busy Sunday mornings, the supply has been known to run out by 11:00. The pungent variety of hops used by the Schneider Weisse brewery gives the house Weissbier a fragrant flavor not found in other wheat beers. A Bavarian brass band, playing popular folk music, completes this tavern’s rustic atmosphere.
The menu here is staggeringly long. The Münchner Sauerbraten (DM 21.90) consists of an ample portion of beef in a tangy, but not too sour, velvety brown sauce served with a homemade bread dumpling. For hungry vegetarians a mixed plate of spinach spätzle, cheese dumplings with parmesan, cheese spätzle, potatoes, creamed chinese cabbage, grilled tomato with cheese and creamed mushrooms (DM 18.90) is a medley of complementing flavors — and is filling! One item on the menu is for those with marathon appetites — the Schwabentopf (DM 28.90). This entrée comes in its own chafing dish, brimming with uniformly browned medallions of pork, creamed mushrooms, cheese spätzle and deep-fried onions. It’s hard to know what to taste first and though your mouth will water in anticipation when the meal is served, the rich, enormous portion is nearly impossible to finish. Whoever coined the phrase “comfort food” must have had this dish in mind.
In October, the restaurant offers a special game menu. “We serve only fresh game here, not frozen,” says manager Christian Döbler, “and in Bavaria that means the month of October.” Start your meal with a delicious bowl of soup “Diana” with sour cream (DM 6.50), whose strong broth is made from a variety of game meats. Venison and veal ragout with creamed mushrooms, a bread dumpling and Preiselbeeren (cow berries) sauce (DM 22.90) is succulent with no gamey deer taste. To finish off your meal, try the baked apple filled with Preiselbeeren and vanilla ice cream, topped with whipped cream (DM 8.00).
FOOD 8, SERVICE 7, ATMOSPHERE 10
PFISTERMÜHLE
Pfisterstrasse 4
Tel. 23 703 865
Hours: Mon.-Sat.,
11:30-1:00, food is served 12:00-24:00
The Pfistermühle, the acclaimed Platzl Hotel restaurant, captivates before you cross the threshold. The ivy-covered building sparkles with tiny white lights, charming it to passers-by. Locals often say, when the eatery is mentioned, “Oh, I’ve always wanted to try it.” Don’t let another season pass by without spending an evening there.
The Pfistermühle serves what Germans call Edles Bayerisches Essen, (fine Bavarian food). The ambience and the service match the elegance of the cuisine. Candlelight flickers against the curved ceilings while friendly waiters see to your every need.
From the appetizer menu, try the lightly smoked goose breast served in an apple vinegar marinade with salad (DM 18.90). The goose is served carpaccio-style, sliced paper-thin and ever so lightly flavored by the marinade. Chopped onion and parsnip add the right touch of sweet-sour. For a more substantial starter, try the baked spinach with several mushroom varieties in a cream sauce (DM 15.00). Though this is a rich dish, the small portion won’t overwhelm you before your main course arrives. The staff recommends Pfistermühlenpfanderl (DM 33.50), a combination of beef, veal and pork medallions served on a bed of cheese spätzle with sautéed Pilze and accompanied by al dente broccoli. Though delicious, a less conventional choice is wise in a restaurant with a gourmet kitchen. Sliced veal filled with Bavarian blue cheese and served over egg noodles in a light tomato sauce with seasonal vegetables (DM 33.00) or ox steak in an onion sauce with grilled fennel and fried potatoes (DM 31.00) top the list of the restaurant’s more inventive creations.
The Pfistermühle has a reputation for creating extraordinary seasonal menus. Though not available at the time of this writing, a special game menu will be offered in October.
FOOD 8, SERVICE 10, ATMOSPHERE 9
