November 2000
Some Like it Cold
Some traditions are best served chilled
The first time i came to Munich, I was treated to six weeks of scorching temperatures and perfect beer garden weather. It was then that I met my husband’s circle of friends. We spent many afternoons basking in the sunshine and enjoying good conversation. Oddly enough, our friends, most of them Munich natives, told endless tales of
winter in Nuremberg. After hearing about the must-see sights and the simple charms of the city, I suggested we take a short trip the following day. “Oh no, not in the summertime, Lisa!” they exclaimed with that “oh, Americans” tone. Nonetheless, my friend Heinz, the only native of Nuremberg in our group, continued to torture me with descriptions of savory treats bought from street vendors or at Christmas market stands —
Drei in a Weckle (three sausages in a roll) and
Buggars (potato pancakes) topped his list. The others chimed in with “mmmms” and “aaahs,” licking their lips at the thought. I squirmed with anticipation as I awaited my first outing to this much talked about southern German town.
In this month’s travel section, Greg
Langley writes about Nuremberg, its marvelous sights as well as its cultural and historical background.
Munich’s jazz scene has often been criticized for its limited scope and feeble program. Organizers of the annual Munich Jazz Festival have worked hard to shed the city of that reputation. This year’s event features a dynamic line-up of acts. This month we are honored to have jazz guitarist Antonio “Tony” Koudele on our cover. We hope that MF readers will check out some of the offerings at the four-day festival. Read about it in News and Views and What’s Up.
A feature story on Munich nightlife has been a long time in the works. Readers have often requested one, and now we are fortunate to have someone on staff who really knows her way around the city’s nocturnal landscape. Munich Found intern and writer Katharina Adler looks at some of the Bavarian capital’s most popular places to party. And while we’re on the subject of mass gatherings; Franz Kotteder shares his opinion on why
Münchner love a crowd in the Last Word.
For those looking for the last word on what to do in winter, Nuremberg is sure to please. After several visits, I am a die-hard fan of its winter charm. I look forward to the early mornings when I meet friends at the
Hauptbahnhof with a thermos of coffee and a sweet loaf of
Stollen. Dressed in layers of clothing and carrying a
Taschenofen (pocket oven) in my coat, I settle in for the train journey across the frozen Bavarian countryside. Ice hangs in great sheets from farmhouses and in spindly webs from tree branches, the frosty landscape glistening with the beauty of the season. When we arrive in the late morning, our first stop is always the
Johannisfriedhof (St. John’s cemetery). We go not to see the resting place of artist Albrecht Dürer, but to place flowers on the grave of Heinz’s mother. The afternoon is spent wandering the hilly, cobblestone streets, stopping to explore a church or to listen to Heinz’s stories of eccentric local characters and the rebuilding efforts after World War II. By the time we catch the last train back to Munich, our bellies are full and our spirits satisfied. The company of friends and the magic of Nuremberg is a spell-binding combination to light up even the darkest winter day. <<<
