November 2000
Gothic Revival
Nuremberg - where everything old is as good as new
During its glory days in the Middle Ages, Nuremberg (German: Nürnberg) was a treasure chest brimming over with art and architecture. Pope Pius II once said, “Nothing more magnificent or splendid is to be found in the whole of Europe. When one perceives this glorious city from afar, its splendor is truly dazzling. When one enters it, one’s original impression is confirmed by the beauty of the streets and the comeliness of the houses.”
An important trading hub and a leading European center of art and science, Nuremberg was also the unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire. The first pocket watch (the Nuremberg Egg), the first globe and the first clarinet were produced there. Famous artists such as Veit Stoß, Peter Vischer, Michael Wolgemut and Albrecht Dürer fashioned masterpieces in the city’s workshops. Nuremberg’s importance declined with the establishment of maritime trading routes to the Americas and the Far East. Its cultural legacy came to symbolize the German national ideal for a generation of young Romantics — long before Germany was united as a single country.
It was this association that attracted the Nazis. They hoped Nuremberg would legitimize the
Third Reich by providing a sense of historic continuity. The city hosted the Reichsparteitage, the potent mass pageants designed to showcase Nazi power. During these events new legislation was announced, such as the 1935 anti-Semitic and racial purity laws, depriving German Jews of their rights and citizenship. These decrees, known as the “Nuremberg Laws,” provided a foundation for the horrors inflicted in the Final Solution.
But Nuremberg paid dearly for its Nazi associations. On the night of January 2, 1945, British Lancaster bombers rained fire and destruction upon the city. By war’s end, Nuremberg was considered one of Europe’s dead cities. More than 90 percent of its buildings had been destroyed, its medieval splendor reduced to ash and rubble. The casual visitor simply cannot perceive the destruction that existed back then. But, fortunately, Nuremberg’s dreamy spires, quaint markets and massive churches have been lovingly and skillfully reconstructed, reviving much of the city’s gothic atmosphere.
The grandiose parade buildings constructed by the Nazis at the Luitpoldhain, as well as the grim
Justizgebäude (Justice Building) lie just outside the destroyed
Stadtbefestigung (city walls) like a blighted memory on the periphery of the city’s consciousness. At the end of 1945, 22 Nazi leaders faced judgment here in Room 600 in what has been described as “the greatest trial in history.” It is still possible to visit the courtroom where twelve of the defendants received the sentence of
Tod durch den Strang (death by hanging), a vengeful close to the events of World War II. And despite Nürnbergs’s charm and cultural wealth, its most significant legacy to the modern world may be the Nuremberg Trial. The precedent set for the legal prosecution of war crime forces political leaders to take greater responsibility for their actions, raising hopes for a world where reason carries more weight than force.
As the second largest city in Bavaria, Nuremberg’s various industries now employ more than 300,000 people. The city is home to the
Germanisches Nationalmuseum (Germanic National Museum, entry DM 8, DM 6 for children) — which features an outstanding collection of German art and cultural artifacts reaching back to the Stone Age. The
Verkehrsmuseum is the oldest transportation museum in Germany, (Lessingstrasse 6; DM 6, DM 3 for children). As Nuremberg is recognized as the world’s toy capital, it is appropriate that the city boasts a museum devoted to toys from around the world (
Spielzeugmuseum, Karlstr. 13, entrance fee DM 8, DM 5 for children). In fact, there is so much to see and do in Nuremberg that a short visit is simply not sufficient to appreciate all its sights — nor to gain a real feel for the city.
The imposing castle Kaiserburg dominates Nuremberg’s skyline from its hilltop on the northern edge of the
Altstadt (old city). From 1050 to 1571 it was the official residence of the German kings and emperors, including Frederick Barbarossa. The oldest portion of the castle, the Pentagonal Tower, was built in 1050. The great Knight’s Hall on the ground floor and the Imperial Hall on the floor above look much as they did when they were rebuilt in the 15th century with oak beams and painted ceilings.
Although the castle may be the architectural heart of Nuremberg, the Albrecht Dürer House (Am Tiergartnertor, Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39, entry DM 8) is certainly the most popular tourist destination. Apart from historical and cultural associations with the great Renaissance artist, it is a typical example of the half-timbered burgher houses of the 15th century. Dürer purchased the house in 1509 and painted many of his masterpieces here before his death in 1528. The building now houses a museum devoted to his life and work.
A great way to take in the most notable sites of Nuremberg is simply to wander its cobblestone streets and soak in its rich history. Nearly all of the key attractions lie within the medieval walls, and, because much of the
Altstadt is now a pedestrian zone, it can easily be accessed on foot. Bisected by the Pegnitz River, the city is built on a series of small hills. This dictates a relaxed pace, particularly around the steep
Burgviertel (castle quarter). The
Historische Meile Nürnberg (the historical mile of Nuremberg) provides a good introductory ramble that covers most of the cultural and historical sites, including the Albrecht Dürer House and the Kaiserburg. A pamphlet, available from the Tourist Information Office, outlines recommended stops on the walk. Distinctive signs at each highlight point toward the next stop.
Included in the walk are all the principal sights of the city. The most impressive are the ruins of the
Stadtbefestigung with its 128 towers and the late Renaissance
Rathaus (town hall). Medieval gems include the Weinstadel, a sprawling half-timbered wine depot, and the elegant
Heilig-Geist-Spital, one of the largest hospital buildings constructed in the Middle Ages and one of Nuremberg’s most photographed sites. The
Heilig-Geist-Spital now functions as an excellent restaurant with an old-world courtyard and wooden galleries. The walk also includes the
Schürstabhaus, a wealthy merchant’s residence dating from the 1300s, the
Schöner Brunnen (beautiful fountain) and the
Hauptmarkt. From November 25 until December 24 this central marketplace is the scene of the largest and most popular
Christkindlesmarkt in Germany. With a 400-year tradition, the world-renowned Nürnberger Christmas market stands apart from others by the quality and sheer volume of goods on sale.
Midway through the walk are the
Felsengänge, underground sandstone cellars running underneath the city that have been excavated over the centuries. During World War II, the
Felsengänge served as air raid shelters. The nearby
Hausbrauerei, an age-old brewery, specializes in unfiltered dark beer, which can be sampled in the bar. The trail also passes the Fembo-Haus, a lavish patrician building that now houses the
Stadtmuseum (city museum).
Like all old German cities, much of Nuremberg’s history has been defined by religion. The city is home to three outstanding churches — the
Lorenzkirche, the
Frauenkirche and the
Sebalduskirche. Unlike the rest of Catholic Bavaria, most of Nuremberg converted to Protestantism during the Reformation. As a result, the
Lorenzkirche and
Sebalduskirche are now Protestant churches, but are still decorated with sumptuous Catholic furnishings. Curiously, the Frauenkirche, which was originally a Protestant church, has been Catholic since 1916.
The
Sebalduskirche is the oldest and most important of Nuremberg’s churches. It is adorned with sculpture, inside and out. One particularly striking piece is the bronze Shrine of St. Sebald, an early 16th-century masterpiece that took Peter Vischer the
Elder and his two sons some eleven years to complete. Annually, on his feast day, the Catholic congregation parades St. Sebald’s relics through the streets. The
Lorenzkirche lies on the other side of the Pegnitz River and is the largest and stateliest church in Nuremberg. Building, which began in 1270, took more than 200 years to complete. The place of worship houses copious art works including paintings, carvings and stained glass windows. Among the more outstanding pieces here are painted panels by Michael Wolgemut, Dürer’s teacher.
A two-hour trip from Munich, Nuremberg is an excellent place to learn about some of Germany’s greatest achievements — and worst failures. <<<
