Take a day trip or longer to Chiemsee.
For natives, Chiemsee is the “ocean of Bavaria.” This jewel of the Bavarian lakes is an ideal day trip for tourists or for Munich residents yearning for a nearby retreat away from the hectic stress of city life. Two islands grace the 84-square-kilometer lake – the Herreninsel and the Fraueninsel. Most day visitors to Chiemsee only visit Schloss Herrenchiemsee, the last castle built by Ludwig II on the Herreninsel. After taking the ferry to the island, the castle is a leisurely 30-minute walk along a path that winds through grassy meadows and dewy forest. The shaded path opens abruptly onto the bright, well-groomed castle gardens. Ornate fountains adorned with frog, fish and maiden sculptures line the broad, stately promenade leading to Herrenchiemsee. Ludwig II modeled the castle after Louis the XIV’s Versailles, and his infatuation with the “Sun King” inspired his copy of the magnificent French estate. An extravagant hall of mirrors, stretching over 100 yards can be impressively illuminated by its 1,848 candles. As of the end of June, classical concerts are held in this grand chamber. Ludwig, who ran out of funds before he ran out of architectural imagination, only spent two weeks at the palace. The rooms he did finish showcase Ludwig’s taste and eccentricity. The castle opens daily at 9:00 and the last tour (English and German are offered) begins at 17:00. Visitors whose curiosity about Ludwig II has been piqued can proceed to the south wing of the palace which houses a Ludwig II museum. Here patrons learn about the king’s colorful lifestyle and the castles which memorialize it. After touring the castle, take the ferry to the Fraueninsel where an afternoon is well spent enjoying lunch in the beergarden of the Inselwirt. The small restaurant serves the usual beergarden fare but also boasts a tasty lake-fish, smoked trout and wine by-the-glass as an alternative to beer. Fraueninsel is also home to a Benedictine convent which has been occupied for more than one thousand years. A small chapel is open to visitors for viewing and a gift shop run by the nuns offers books about the area, handmade candles and other crafts. The nuns are famed for the great-tasting schnapps they distill on the premises. Don’t leave the island without a bottle of the spicy Magenbitter or a potent Klosterlikör, with its pungent, eucalyptus-like flavor – the perfect postprandial for a fish meal. It is at sunset though, after the last ferry has transported most tourists back to the mainland, that the Fraueninsel is at its best. Residents and guests stroll along the quiet pathways enjoying the charming gardens and balconies overflowing with geraniums. So quiet is the island that you can hear the sound of clinking silverware coming through open windows as neighbors prepare their evening meals. Practical Information. Summer hours for the ferries to and between both islands leave from Prien/Stock, Bernau/Felden, Gstadt and Seebruck daily from approximately 6:00 to 19:00. Getting There. Take the Autobahn A8 in the direction of Salzburg and exit at Bernau. Approximate driving time, 1 hour. Take the train headed to Salzburg from the Munich Hauptbahnhof and get off at Prien. Accommodations. Though there are many larger hotels around Chiemsee, the Fraueninsel houses a number of bed-and-breakfast accommodations which are a charmingly rustic alternative. Private homes are quiet, well-kept and reasonably priced at an average daily rate of DM40 per person during busy summer months. A helping of the hostess’ homemade marmalade with breakfast makes you feel part of the family. A booklet listing such accommodations is available from the tourist office tel. (08051) 2280. MF Insider’s Tip. Dinner at Zur Linde Insel Hotel and Restaurant on the Fraueninsel is a distinct pleasure. Sebastian and Regina Obermaier are masters of gracious service and delicious food. Excellent fresh fish specialties include whitefish filet with scampi and black pasta or tender smoked salmon with dill créme fraiche served atop a potato pancake. For reservations call (08054) 90366 or fax (08054) 7299.