Let your stomach lead the way to Waging am See.
The reason most people go to Waging is Alfons Schuhbeck, Bavaria’s best-known chef. (The author of numerous cookbooks is also the host of his own cooking show on Bayerischer Rundfunk every Sunday at 16:30 and Mondays at 12:30 and offers tips to listeners of Bayern 3 radio every Friday at 9:50 a.m.). He prepares and serves unique Bavarian dishes in his restaurant, the Kurhaus Stüberl in Waging am See, which has become a place of pilgrimage for Munich’s gourmets. Bavarian artifacts and farming tools hang from the walls and candlelight reflects in large baroque mirrors, giving the restaurant an elegant yet unstuffy ambiance. Table centerpieces reflect the theme of the menu often using fresh herbs and vegetables instead of flowers to decorate the 50 tables. The secret of Schuhbeck’s success lies in his scrupulous choice of ingredients: only the freshest and best of the season’s produce appears in his kitchen. Drawing from his Bavarian roots he prepares simple traditional dishes but adds a flair all his own. His freshwater-fish stew of catfish and pike-perch filet is subtly flavored with curry. An eight-course prix-fix seasonal menu for spring features chicken in aspic with bell peppers, filet of beef with celery root-potato puree and, to cool the palate, an iced espresso. The menu changes weekly. In the true style of Bavarian hospitality the master chef emerges from the kitchen shortly after the main course is finished to greet all of his guests individually – a treat in itself for his many fans. Reserve well ahead. Waging, though, is not only for fine dining. The lake is a popular summer camping spot and a sailor’s delight. The boats glide across the mirror-like surface of the lake and the wind whispers in the aspens. It’s hard to imagine a prettier place. Practical Information. Kurhaus Stüberl is open Wednesday – Sunday from 18:30 and Sundays and holidays from 12:30-15:00, (08681) 400 912. Getting There. Take the Autobahn A8 in the direction of Salzburg and exit at Traunstein. Approximate driving time, 1.5 hours. Take the train from Hauptbahnhof to Traunstein, change trains and continue on to Waging am See. Accommodations. Landhaus Tanner. This family-run Bavarian guesthouse ensures a comfortable visit in a warm atmosphere and is recommended by locals. Apartments with kitchenettes and balconies cost DM 130 for two people. For reservations call (08681) 69750. MF Insider’s Tip. Waging is home to the Bergader cheese factory, famous for their delectable Bavaria Blu cheese. On May 20 the factory hosts a cheese brunch. Not usually open to the public, it is a rare opportunity to indulge in the stinky delicacies at the source and learn tips from the Käse Kenner about enjoying cheese. Call the Waging tourist office to reserve a place (08681) 313.