It's in German, it's in code: it's what we eat
Mmm, that was yummy! On the table in front of me lies the empty gold wrapper of a store-bought cake, the kind donation of a friend who knew I was writing about food additives this month and wanted to help me get inspired. Feeling a bit nauseous, I’ve just checked out the list of ingredients on the packet. Along with the obligatory flour and sugar there are many suspicious and mysterious-sounding Es. Time for a bit of demystification.E-labeling for food additives (Lebensmittelzusatzstoffe) began in 1982, when the EEC (now the EU) decided to put an end to the confusing jumble of ingredients used for prepackaged food by its member countries and to introduce a standardized system, whereby every additive is categorized according to its use and given a number preceded by the letter E. There are almost 300 additives that have been given the EU stamp of approval.
These substances are split into seven categories. Numbers E100–E181 are mostly food colorings (Farbstoffe). Those vibrant, red canned cherries you ate for dessert last night may have looked particularly appetizing because of E127, a coloring substance called Erythrosine. The next group of additives comprises preservatives (Konservierungsstoffe), E200–290. Typical of this group are E220–229 (sulfur dioxide preparations), which are often added to dried fruit, wine and potato products—a deadly ingredient for the sulphur allergic and a headache-producing agent to the sensitive. Next are acids (Säuren), antioxidants (Antioxidanzen) and mineral salts (Salze), E296–385. The dangerous-sounding ascorbic acid, E300, is actually another name for vitamin C, which just goes to show that not all E substances are unhealthy.
The group E400–495 covers vegetable gums, emulsifiers (Emulgatoren) and stabilizers (Stabilisatoren). Locust Bean Gum, otherwise known as E410, was used as part of the mummification process by the ancient Egyptians. Today it is found in many jelly-like foods, where it helps to provide structure. Mineral salts (Salze) and anti-caking agents (Backtriebmittel), which constitute the E500–579 category, include Glucono Delta-Lactone. Despite sounding like a venerable Italian aristocrat, this is in fact a raising agent for dough-based products.
E620–637, will appeal to the jaded palate brigade, for these are the flavor enhancers (Geschmacksverstärker). Monosodium glutamate, or E621, is the one we all love to hate. Manufactured by a fermentation process using starch, sugar beets, sugar cane or molasses, no one is yet quite sure how it works. Many people complain of adverse reactions after eating it and yet it is so effective that it is also known as “umami,” which derives from the Japanese word meaning “deliciousness.”
Finally, there are the Es 900–1520, a motley crew that includes beeswax, shellac, paraffins and chlorine, none of which sounds remotely edible. In fact, much of what is listed here is used in cosmetics and therefore needs to be safe for consumption only in very small quantities.
Don’t worry if you can’t remember any of this because (perversely) E-labeling is not mandatory within the European Union, so you will still find many product labels that list the conventional name of the substances that have been used. E numbers can be found at numerous sites including www.bryngollie.freeserve.co.uk/Enumbers.htm. One useful pointer when checking labeling is to remember that those additives with the highest concentration are shown first. And, try to avoid the word Präservativ when asking about food; it is one of the words used for condom!
