Austria's Styria–one region where you'll never hear "stop your wining"
Austrian ad writers love clear and pithy formulas. Alltag raus, Österreich rein! (Daily grind out, Austria in!) and Steiermark—das grüne Herz (Styria—the green heart) are certainly memorable slogans—after all, who doesn’t wish to leave daily stress behind and spend an all-too-short vacation surrounded by beautiful greenery? Curiosity for Styria’s capital is sparked by such catchy word plays as Graz hat’s (Graz has it) and Graz, Österreichs heimliche Liebe (Graz, Austria’s secret love).
While Styria—one of Austria’s nine Bundesländer (states) and the one Austrian tourism officials brag is the “southeastern most state in the European Union”—is best known for its idyllic landscapes, Münchner often associate Styrians with the legend of “Steyrer Hans,” an Oktoberfest beer tent proprietor who lifted a 508-pound weight with his middle finger. This act of strength is still celebrated in Munich during the Starkbier (strong beer) season in spring.
However, it is not beer but wine that plays a most crucial role in the Styrian region. Since its Roman colonization circa 15 B.C., Styria has developed a wine culture that measures up to the top vineyards in Europe. It is, therefore, no coincidence that the region is dubbed “Styrian Tuscany.”
Styrian wine country can be reached by taking the E55 through Salzburg toward Vienna and exiting at Mondsee, which you will skirt. From there, you will drive along Wolfgangsee, pass through Bad Aussee—it is here, in local mine shafts, that Hitler hid a large portion of his stolen art treasures—and continue on to Liezen, where an approximately 15-km detour will take you to Admont Abbey, which boasts the largest monastic library in the world. From here, it is just under an hour to the city of Graz.
Should you wish to take an alternative route, take the E55 south of Salzburg until you reach Radstadt, and then turn east and head for Schladming and Gröbming, where you will turn south to cross the Niedere Tauern by driving over Sölker Pass. Sölker Pass served as a salt trade road at the time of the Bronze and Iron Age settlement at Hallstatt and later became an important trade route to the north for the Romans. Today, it is a favorite road among motorcyclists—don’t be surprised to see a bevy of black leather-donning yuppies on Harleys cruising along this road. From Judenburg—where you may slurp a frothy cappucino in the Mediterranean atmosphere of the town’s marketplace—head for Köflach. Worth a short diversion is the nearby town of Piber, home to the world-renowned Lipizaner stallions.
Signposting in Austria is not always optimal. Missing signs can quickly throw visitors off course. Therefore, travelers are strongly advised to procure a detailed road map of the region. Road signs indicate tourist routes and points of interest in brown, and hotels and inns in green. A good map or guide will also mark roads that lead through Styrian wine country. Those who wish to explore the area by bicycle may either bring or rent bikes. Following bike paths through the mountain vineyards of Styria, breathing in the crisp air, is a marvelous way to spend an afternoon. However, the region has some fairly steep trails that require above-average physical condition. It is, therefore, best to buy a bike trail map and plan your trip in advance.
Southern Styria, bordering on Slovenia, boasts approximately 2000 hectares of vineyards. These are not sites of mass production; instead they are small, traditional wineries, many of which have been in the same family for centuries. Over the past few years, southern Styrian wines have earned a consistently high rating at premieres and in the gastronomic press. It is, therefore, a pleasant surprise to find that wines bought directly from the vineyards are still quite reasonably priced.
Most Styrian wines—including the region’s finest—are white. Welschriesling—fruity, lightly acidic and aromatic—is Styria’s main wine variety, followed closely by the elegant Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Of special interest here is the fruity and full-bodied Morillon. Permitted to be sold under that name exclusively in Styria, it is actually a Chardonnay. In addition, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer, Müller-Thurgau and Grauburgunder are also cultivated in the region. One of Styria’s best-known “red wines” is, in reality, a rosé: Schilcher, the product of blue Wildbacher grapes, is light and dry like all Styrian wines. For those who prefer full-fledged, full-bodied red wines, the area also produces a Blauer Zweigelt and a deep red Blauburgunder.
Most Styrian vintners offer a wide selection of varieties, all of which are a welcome change to many of today’s ho-hum wines won from fashionable, new varieties grown in monoculture. Through strict quality control and self-imposed quantity limits, wonderful Reserve and Kabinett wines are offered at affordable prices.
Styria’s wine culture being as important as it is, it is clear that a trip to the region may not be right for those who eschew a nip of the grape. In fact, a vacation to Styria might turn out to be one extended wine tasting! A Styrian invention, the terrific Buschenschank was created just for that purpose.
The Buschenschank has been a typical fixture of the Styrian wine landscape since Charlemagne’s day. In 1784, Joseph II introduced a law that permitted local vintners to sell their wares to the public. Because wine does not sit well on an empty stomach, vintners were also allowed to serve a “Bretteljause” (or, Brotzeit) with the understanding that this meal may comprise ingredients only from one’s own farm (or, at least, from one’s own town) and that no warm meals may be offered. Without the expense of running a full kitchen, as in normal restaurants, the Buschenschank also enjoys tax advantages. Working to be creative within the rigid guidelines, the wine-highlighting eateries have, throughout the years, developed high culinary standards. In Styria, cold meals have become an experience: Feta terrine served on watercress with pumpkin seed oil and aromatic wine vinegar; Styrian ham with grated Parmesan and vinaigrette; vegetables or pot roast in aspic and a wide variety of pâtés.
Most local dishes are strewn with a few drops of Styria’s signature aromatic pumpkin seed oil. The secret to the superiority of Styrian pumpkins is simple: hull-less seeds—discovered and further cultivated by a clever Styrian farmer in 1850—make oil extracting a snap. The seeds not only make a great snack food, but are also served roasted and caramelized or as a tasty and healthful addition to a hearty Bauernbrot. Unfortunately, owing to some bad EU politics—laws that make corn cheaper and easier to grow and sell at higher prices than pumpkins— farmers have chosen to replace many of Styria’s pumpkin patches with corn.
There are eight “wine roads” in the region, the Südsteirische Weinstrasse being the one with the greatest number of and most important vineyards. Begin in Gamlitz, where you should visit the town’s beautiful egg-yolk-yellow palace, with its wine-making museum, before continuing your journey. With any luck, you may just bump into the “man of the manor,” who will gladly take you on a guided tour and share his lifelong experience as a passionate vintner. While relaxing in the palace courtyard, with its “oleander gallery,” you may regret not having booked overnight accommodation in one of Schoss Gamlitz’s antique-decorated rooms or apartments (Weingut Melcher—Schloss Gamlitz, Tel. +43 34 53 23 63, Fax +43 34 53 45 50).
From Gamlitz, drive south to Markt Ehrenhausen. From the town’s west end, a narrow road leads the visitor, over hill and dale, through the heart of the southern Styrian wine region. This extraordinary landscape is dotted with well-groomed vineyards, artfully grouped tree clusters and the area’s characteristic Klapotetzen—wooden wind wheels designed to create the right racket to scare birds away while grapes mature.
Nearby, Spielfeld is the most important border town to Slovenia. You may notice that, for several kilometers, Austria is on the one side of the road and Slovenia on the other. The road’s division does not appear to pose a big problem to border police. In fact, a large number of migrant farmworkers in the southern Styrian wine country commute daily from Slovenia.
Another exceptionally beautiful wine road can be found in the Sausal wine area. If you are driving from Leibnitz, take a short side trip to Schloss Seggau, a magnificent palace overlooking Sulm Valley. Its 300-year-old wine cellar bears witness to the wealth amassed by previous owners. Today, much of the Schloss is used for conventions.
Palace walls are embedded with Roman stones, the remains of building materials used in nearby (1 km) Frauenberg—a roman temple built in honor of the Goddess Isis Noreia. The temple’s small museum, as well as an adjacent Wallfahrtskirche (pilgrimage church), are worth visiting.
As you proceed back down into the Sulm Valley—you will pass a large lake, great for swimming—head west and take a “soft” left off the main road to the Kernölmühle (seed oil mill) in Heimschuh. The miller will gladly allow you to observe him as he works. A small shop on the premises sells seed oils and other Styrian specialties.
In Fresing, bear right off the B 74, where you will follow a rather steep road to Kitzeck (564 meters above sea level). Here lie the highest, steepest vineyards in Austria, whose southern exposure and stony soil make for the highest quality wine.
Kitzeck is crowned by a yellow Baroque church, which affords a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside. Chestnut trees, a handful of poplars, floral gardens and the warm Adriatic wind create an unusually Mediterranean atmosphere. A most informative, lovingly presented wine museum next to the church serves to educate visitors on all aspects of wine making and its development throughout history. The present generation of vintners is quite ambitious. They know that only the highest standards can ensure them a corner of the market. However, in speaking with them, you may get the feeling that they are equally interested in creating good wine for their own enjoyment!
A tall signpost stands across from the wine museum, pointing to all local vineyards and Buschenschanken in the area. Signs also indicate where you will find vacancies at local vineyards that offer accommodation. One extremely charming overnight possibility is Weingut Albert in Kitzeck’s east end (www.weingut-albert.at, Tel. +43 34 56 22 39). The gorgeous hilltop vineyard overlooks the valley on all sides. The vineyard’s tasteful Buschenschank, a converted old grape pressing room, boasts a surrounding covered terrace. Spend the day here, following the sun from table to table, and, at sunset, you will be glad you have booked a room at this inn—vintner Christian von Cramer’s grape creations are not compatible with driving!
When the work day is done, von Cramer is always happy to sit with his guests and talk about his craft. He belongs to the aforementioned group of passionate vintners—proud of his wine and patient in sharing his knowledge with customers and the curious alike. One specialty found in von Cramer’s cellar—next to his wonderful Riesling “Steirische Hoheit” and delicate Morillon Reserve Barique—is the so-called “Mischsatz” (mixed set), a delightfully sippable potable. Mischsatz is most often made from a variety of grapes—a generation-spanning collection grown on a vineyard’s oldest plot. In planting grapes of varying quality and maturity rates, the vintner was ensured, regardless of weather conditions, some yield from the plot: if one vine died, the next variety at hand was planted in its place. Because they require more care, and because they yield less than one-variety fields, such mixed plots are now few and far between. The result of the blend is a very fresh, fruity, light wine.
Whether you seek to coat your stomach with the vineyard’s main attraction, or simply wish to enjoy a good meal, be sure to try some of chef Gerlinde’s cold creations. Spicy terrines and aspic molds—made with meat, fish or vegetables—are served on a mountain of mixed greens and herbs and, of course, drizzled with the obligatory, addictive pumpkin seed oil. If your head still “has room” for a nightcap, try the house peach schnaps, made from homegrown fruit.
Centrally located and a wonderful spot from which to take day trips into the southern Styrian wine country, Kitzeck is a top vacation town. If one of the three rooms at Weingut Albert is not available, try the neighbors, Warga Hack, or head to the oldest vineyard in Styria, Kitzeckmüller, located behind the church. Accommodation prices are reasonable throughout the town, approximately Euro 20 per person, which includes an opulent breakfast. During the grape harvest, around the last week of September, it is best to reserve ahead.
If you are planning a trip to southern Styria, it is highly recommended you visit the state capital of Graz. During the Middle Ages, Graz was the glittering residence of the Habsburgs. Today, it is recognized as one of Europe’s best-preserved old cities, which has been raised to the status of a “world cultural heritage” site. In fact, in 2003, Graz will be the “cultural capital of Europe”.
Graz is also a mecca for those interested in modern architecture—the city is a fascinating example of how old and new can coexist harmoniously. A virtual “squad” of modern architects has designed an aesthetically beautiful city, whose new buildings manage to pay tribute to Graz’s historical roots without turning it into an Alpine yodeler village. A trip in the hi-tech elevator to the top of the city’s Schlossberg (castle hill) is an experience. “Dom im Berg,” converted mountaintop air-raid shelters, provides a fascinating space for exhibitions and other events. In the evening, enjoy the ambience of Restaurant Johann, located in the former stables of a Renaissance palace built in 1560.
Graz hat’s. Even the new bathrooms in the old Zeughaus (armory), with its world’s-largest collection of armor and weapons, are architectural works of art! And, if you suddenly stumble across the Arnold Schwarzenegger Stadium, do not be surprised: the facility is indeed the donation of the city’s famous Hollywood son. It would seem Graz really does have it all!
FURTHER INFORMATION
Tourismusregionalverband
Südsteirisches Weinland
A-8430 Leibnitz
Sparkassenplatz 4a,
Tel. ++ 43 34 52 76 711
Fax ++43 34 52 71 560
Graz Tourismus
A-8011 Graz, Kaiserfeldgasse 15
Tel.++43 316 80 75-0
Fax ++43 316 80 75-55
Email: info@graztourismus.at
www.graztourismus.at
