February 2002
Complex Carbohydrates
There are many creative ways to prepare potatoes and crêpes
münchner kartoffelhaus
Hochbrückenstr. 2
Tel. (089) 29 63 31
Open Mon. –Sat. 12 pm–1 am,
Sun. and holidays 5:30 pm–1 am
An ideal retreat from a cold, wintry evening, this country-style restaurant, with its dark wood paneling and tables, is reminiscent of a cluttered farmhouse and the accompanying homey feel. Here, the welcoming aroma of nature’s most versatile vegetable fills the air. With potato soup recipes scrawled on the walls, stencils of dancing spuds lining the borders of the room and rotund models hanging from the ceilings, little doubt remains as to the preferred ingredient of this restaurant. While we all know that potatoes can be boiled, mashed, fried, etc., the chef at Münchner Kartoffelhaus creates potato dishes well beyond a diner’s imagination. Peruse the restaurant’s extensive menu while sipping a glass of the house potato schnapps (
Kartoffelschnaps ), with or without fig flavor (
Kartoffelfeigling ) (€ 2.80). Select from a wide range of spud salads and other appetizers (€ 4.40–10.20), such as
Kartoffel Crossini with olive and tomato purée and potato puffs with caviar and
Schmand (a thicker version of American sour cream). While vegetarians will delight in myriad choices, there are also plenty of meat dishes, such as the typical Bavarian
Folienkartoffel (potatoes baked in tin foil) with sauerkraut and bratwurst (€ 9.50). Specialty dishes range from Berlin potato soup (€ 5.50) to potato and asparagus casserole (
Spargelauflauf ) with ham and cheese (€ 9.50). More adventurous options include potato lasagne (€ 9), a mini spud pizza with tuna fish (€ 5), various omelettes and stuffed potato dishes as well as a good fish selection, including flounder and salmon. Visitors will find a vast assortment of international dishes, such as Indian chicken and
Kartoffel curry served with sautéed carrots and peppers in a spicy curry-cream sauce (€ 10.50), Mexican baked potatoes with burning hot chili con carne (€ 9.50), a creamy egg and sausage Hungarian stew topped with baked cheese (€ 9.20) and additional meals featuring spices found in Greek, Russian and French cooking. Most main meals are served piping hot on heavy, iron skillets and are guaranteed to make you feel like an overstuffed spud yourself! Do, however, try to leave a bit of room for something sweet. The house potato puff dessert, with its generous serving of cool applesauce (€ 6.90), is the perfect treat to round off a deliciously starchy evening. Fast and friendly service makes this a great place for parties or large gatherings, and though the rooms tend to fill up quickly, especially on the weekends, do not despair—there is another location, at Hohenzollernplatz in Schwabing.
FOOD 6, SERVICE 9, ATMOSPHERE 7
Crêperie
Bernard & Bernard
Innere-Wiener-Strasse 32
Tel. (089) 480 11 73
Open Mon.–Fri. 11:30 am–2:30 pm, 6:30 pm–1 am, Sun. 5:30 pm–12 am, closed Sat.
After spending an evening in this tiny French haven, it won’t come as a surprise to hear that it’s generally thought to have the best crêpes in town. The dimly lit restaurant is decorated to look like a typical Parisian crêperie, with high wooden tables and tall stools on one side and large booths that seat parties of up to ten people on the other. (However, diners may be forced to share seating with other parties, as there are only five tables in the establishment and they fill up quickly.) If you’ve been looking for an opportunity to brush up on your French, here is your big chance, as the French waitress does not speak much else. Those who have only a limited knowledge of the language will have to compensate with hand gestures and miming. The only items on the menu that do not include the thin flapjacks are the starters (€ 5.40–10), which include several salads, escargot and various cheeses. The restaurant’s numerous main courses are served with traditional crêpe fillings—ham, cheese and tomato—or more creative ones, such as goats’ cheese, tuna fish, corn, apple and shrimp. Combinations are suggested, but the chef is happy to accommodate any special orders. House favorites include Roquefort, Apple, Calvados Flambée (€ 7.20), and Ratatouille, which is made with eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers and onions (€ 7.70). The secret to Bernard & Bernard’s crêpes is their subtle taste and delicate texture—even the mildest of filling flavors are not lost. And, though at first glance you may think the meal will be enormously heavy, it is surprisingly light. If you leave this restaurant without having dessert, you will probably be the first person in the crêperie’s history to do so. The sweets section of the menu (€ 3.10–7.10) takes up an entire page—you can have your thin crêpe filled with apple and strawberry jam, orange marmalade, honey, nutella, chocolate or vanilla ice cream, raspberries and various liqueurs, to name but a few. La Guadeloupe (€ 6.90) is served with banana, ice cream, whipped cream, almonds, chocolate and Grand Marnier, La Jamaica (€ 6.90) with raisins, banana, ice cream, almonds, cream and rum and La Nouvelle (€ 6.40) with pear, vanilla ice cream, heavy cream, almonds and pear schnapps. Whatever you choose, you can’t go wrong—after all, there is nothing quite like the taste of freezing ice cream and hot banana dripping with melted chocolate and honey and wrapped up in a soft crêpe.
FOOD 9, SERVICE 7, ATMOSPHERE 9
