Exploring new heights in Bayrischzell
A ride on the oldest narrow-gauge railway up one of the highest mountains in the German Alps followed by a day of skiing some of the country’s best pistes—and all this just 60 minutes from Munich. Sounds appealing? Then look no further than 79 km southeast of Munich to discover one of the most picturesque and romantic resorts in Bavaria.The village of Bayrischzell straddles the basin-shaped Leitzach valley at the end of the scenic Bayrische Oberbahn railway, “BOB” for short. Framed between the impressive Wendelstein and Grosse Traithen mountains, Zell—as the locals affectionately call it—has been an acclaimed health resort for over 900 years. Originally known as Margarethenzell, the village comprised no more than five cattle farms well into the 19th century. While Bayrischzell has since witnessed extensive development—accelerated by the completion of the railway in 1911—no hotel or other complex has been allowed to spoil the resort’s rustic character and to this day these five farms set the tone of the rest of the village.
Bayrischzell is best discovered on foot. A delightful place to window-shop, the alpine village offers a good variety of shops carrying handmade crafts and local costume. The half-timber Gasthäuser , distinguished by their colorful al fresco paintings known as “Lüftlmalerei,” are a prominent feature of the picture-book village. At the heart of Bayrischzell stands the late-Gothic church of St. Margaret, with its eye-catching frescoes depicting the founding of the former monastery of Bayrischzell and the legend of St. Margaret. An ideal place to round off a stroll through the village is Café Huber, where you can enjoy Kaffee und Kuchen while admiring some great views of the local Seekopfberg.
From a distance, the Wendelstein looks rather tame. Close up, however, the region’s highest mountain, just 4 km north of Bayrischzell, evokes a more formidable, austere impression. If there were a prize for cramming the most hi-tech installations onto the top of a mountain, this craggy landmark would carry it off in style. The zenith is home to an observatory (with one of the most modern telescopes in Germany), a meteorological station, a wind generator, a gigantic solar energy system and a television aerial. Huddled alongside, the Wendelsteinhaus and the Wendelinkapelle appear comparatively venerable. Dating back to 1883, the former was the very first mountaintop accommodation to be built in the Bavarian Alps. The latter, one of the highest chapels in Germany, regularly plays host to marriage ceremonies set against a dramatic backdrop.
The first person to climb the Wendelstein entered the history books quite by accident. Records from 1718 relate how a farmer in search of his lost horses was the first to set foot on the gray, pyramidal peak. There he built a chapel in honor of Wendelin, the patron saint of cattle. The first illustrious climbers were the Archbishop of Munich and Maximilian II. Nowadays, most visitors understandably opt for less arduous ways of reaching the 1,838-m-high summit. The 10-minute cable-car ride from Osterhofen is the fastest mode, whilst the nostalgic narrow-gauge railway, starting at Brannenburg, takes a leisurely 30 minutes. A round trip combining the two (up on the cable car, down on the railway, or vice versa) is a popular option thanks to a bus shuttle service linking up to the starting point. This also enables wheelchair riders to reach the mountaintop comfortably.
In warmer months, once the snow has melted, various paths lead to the top of the mountain. One trail winds round the tranquil Lacherspitz summit (1,724 m)—an ideal picnic stop. The hike, starting at the car park at Sudelfeld, covers a difference in altitude of 1,075 m and takes just over five hours. From the mountaintop terrace, a total of four trails crisscross the “Geo Park”—a small area with information panels describing the evolution of the Alps and the earth’s solar system. The only park trail likely to be open in winter, however, leads from the cable car terminus up to the summit. Round off the 20-minute climb by visiting the observatory, the Wendelin chapel or the panoramic restaurant for a piece of flaky Apfelstrudel . In summer, you can also visit the caves stretching 200 m into the cliffs.
Given such easy access, it’s hardly surprising that the top of the Wendelstein is not exactly an oasis of peace and tranquility—particularly on weekends. When it comes to being scarred by development, the Wendelstein is topped only by the Zugspitze. However, the panorama spanning the concrete-plastered summit platform is unique and includes such peaks as the Zugspitze, the Grossglockner and the Grossvenediger. When a crisp Föhn wind blows, you can see as far as the Bavarian Forest to the northeast of Munich. Panels on the platform show all the major nearby peaks.
The Wendelstein, with its 10 km of groomed pistes, offers skiers a challenging descent (a black route known as the “Hotelhang”) back to the cable-car station at Osterhofen. The cable car also caters to snowboarders riding the 5-km “Westabfahrt.” Alternatively, bearing in mind that in winter the temperatures in the mountains are often much higher than down in the valley, just lay back and sip Glühwein from the comfort of a deckchair on the restaurant terrace. For the most extensive skiing in the region, with pistes geared to all levels of experience, head for the Sudelfeld, host of last year’s Skiboarding World Cup and the 1995 German Snowboarding Championships. Peaking at 1,563 m, the area boasts some 20 drag lifts, two chair lifts and around 25 km of ski runs. Experienced skiers make for the 2.5-km Traithenkar slope while, when snow reaches back down into the valley, the 5-km descent from the Kitzlahn lift via Sauhüll back down to Bayrischzell is a skier’s dream run. Snow-making machines guarantee action up to 1,200 m, while three ski and snowboard schools offer courses at all levels. If you’re interested in trying out skiing for the first time, but weary of committing yourself, the Sudelfeld ski school offers a so-called Schnupperstunde —one hour’s instruction free of charge. With a total of 12 mountainside cafés and restaurants, Sudelfeld caters to all gastronomic tastes and budgets. The popular “Sonnenalpen” restaurant, for instance, makes an excellent rest point—try the delicious Currywurst followed by Germknödel (sweet dumplings soaked in vanilla sauce).
If you ever wondered how pioneer skiers dressed, the Nostalgie-Skilauf is a must. What began as a gag to mark the 100th anniversary of skiing on Sudelfeld has, over the last five years, become something of an institution among ski fans. Anyone sporting the appropriate attire is welcome to enter into the fun—wooden skis without edges, ski boots made of leather and original garments, such as farmer’s hats and lodens, are firm favorites. The nostalgic ski race takes place every year on Faschingsdienstag (Carnival Tuesday), which this year falls on February 12. To find the starting point at the Walleralm, just follow the crowds to the loud music! Another date for the diary is Faschingssonntag on February 10, when revelers traditionally take to the slopes in fancy dress. This is one day in the year when anything goes—the brasher the better—so look out for all those festive playboy bunnies, court jesters and knights knobble-kneeing their way down the slopes!
Bayrischzell is also a great center for Langlauf , or cross-country skiing, with a total of 50 km of trails (known as Loipen ). The double-track valley trail offers some spectacular views of the Wendelstein massif, Wallberg at nearby Tegernsee and even the Kaiser mountains in Tyrol. Running between Neuhaus and Kloaschautal and skirting round Osterhofen and Bayrischzell, the trail is best split up into five stretches and there’s no shortage of cafés en route (try the quaint “Rote Wand,” for example, at Geitau). A complimentary bus service connecting Thiersee in Tyrol with Sudelfeld enables cross-country skiers to visit the Grundalm in Kloaschautal and ride back to Bayrischzell.
An up-and-coming winter sport to look out for in Bayrischzell is snowtubing—the art of sliding down a mountain slope on a soft rubber tire. Try it at the “Winter Erlebnispark.” Other sports offered include tobogganing (sledges available for hire) and Eisstockschiessen (Bavarian curling). To find out more about this traditional game, call in at the ice rink on the Seeberg, where guests and locals practice together at 1 pm daily.
For walkers, the resort offers a variety of winter trails between 2.5 and 7 km long. Some of the most picturesque views across the valley can be enjoyed along the 2.5-km path from the “Natureisplatz” at Bayrischzell/Seeberg along the River Leitzach to Osterhofen. For a longer walk, take the path to Birkenstein via Osterhofen. One highlight of the 2.5-hour round trip is the Marien-Wallfahrtskapelle (pilgrimage chapel) with its sumptuous Rococo fittings. For an unusual hiking experience, how about snowshoeing? Snowshoes can be hired for € 5 a day from the Tourist Office, which supplies details of the weekly guided tours. Another attraction in Bayrischzell is the winter walk with flame torches (every second Monday from December to March). The price of the guided walk includes a glass of Glühwein afterward. Finally, for a truly romantic tour of the local winter wonderland, take a horse-drawn sleigh ride. Trips cost around € 6 a head and start at the Rote Wand hotel.
One thing you won’t find in Bayrischzell is an exuberant après-ski scene. This is largely because most skiers tend to be day-trippers from Munich. Consequently, once the ski lifts have stopped and the car parks emptied, the village quietly nods off to sleep for the night. Most overnight guests tend to congegrate in the hotel bars and restaurants—you’ll find some offer dancing and live music once-or twice a week. Those interested in the local customs should look out for the bayerische Abende (Bavarian evenings) held at the Gasthof Wendelstein. With any luck, you might even catch a performance by the oldest folklore group in Germany (founded in Bayrischzell in 1883). Slide-show evenings, generally on a local theme, are held regularly at the Haus des Gastes, which also holds a weekly Kegeln (bowling) afternoon followed by traditional Bavarian Brotzeit . Alternatively, what better way to unwind after a day’s snow sport than in the sauna. The public sauna and solarium at the Kurmittelhaus are open from 4 pm to 9 pm (“ladies only” on Tuesdays and communal sessions on Wednesdays and Thursdays.)
For those seeking to replenish body and soul in a totally secluded environment, the Tannerhof Sanatorium offers a good selection of one-week packages. Activities include meditative dancing, autogenic training, Tai-Chi, yoga, conversational therapy and cooking courses. And if all that sounds a bit overwhelming, the sanatorium also offers the opportunity to retreat to wooden hut accommodation and fast for a week.
A little further afield, the neighboring villages of Fischbachau and Schliersee make good excursions. At Fischbachau visit the Klosterkirche St. Martin, a monastery church dating from the 11th century, and the Wallfahrtskirche Birkenstein, a pilgrimage chapel at the foot of the Birkenstein mountain. Fischbachau is also home to the Enzianbrennerei , which distills the popular spirit from the roots of the local gentian flower. The family-run company, founded in 1928, prides itself on producing a Branntwein without any additives or artificial aromas. Tour the distillery and taste the spirits free of charge on Fridays and Sundays (3 pm and 11 am respectively). Finally, for a taste of local fare, call in at the “Oberwirt,” a traditional Upper Bavarian Gasthaus and try the delicious Ochsenzunge (ox tongue) served in sour cream or Bachsaibling (char fish from local streams).
The village of Schliersee, nestled alongside the romantic lake of the same name, is home to another unique attraction: the Heimatmuseum. An extraordinary collection of objects pertaining to local history, it consists of two houses dating from the 14th and 15th centuries, both of which are under one roof and decorated with original local farmhouse fittings. There’s even a rare old Rauchkuchel , an open fireplace with a flue. Schliersee also has its own cottage industry—the “Lantenhammer” and “Hoermann” distilleries. In addition to gentian schnapps and fruit liqueurs, the latter also produces a range of jams and honies. For more skiing, Schliersee offers 30 km of slopes at nearby Stümpfling and Taubenstein, while the indoor pool at Schliersee boasts year-round bathing.
Bayrischzell and its neighboring villages make a perfect base for exploring the beauty of the Leitzach valley and offer a good range of hotels, guesthouses, private rooms and farmhouse accommodation to suit all budgets. Diverse packages, including ski deals (look out for 10 percent discounts in the Weisse Wochen ) and sleigh rides, can be booked through the tourist information center (Kuramt). While Bayrischzell is no longer a true village, its transition into a winter playground has not left it scarred by mass tourism. The retreat has remained small and intimate enough to retain its original charm and head off the glitter-glam and jet-set features of so many other popular alpine destinations. This, together with the location’s ability to cater to such a wide range of visitors, is what sets Bayrischzell apart from the majority of alpine resorts.
HOW TO GET THERE:
>>>By car: A8, exit at Weyarn or Irschenberg via Miesbach (B 307). Allow approx. 1 hour.
>>>By TRAIN: Hourly service from Munich.
Tourist Information:
Bayrischzell
Tel. (08023) 648, Fax 1034; www. bayrischzell.de
Fischbachau
Tel. (08028) 876;
www.fischbachau.de
Schliersee
Tel. (08026) 606 50
www.schliersee.de
Ski Info/Web cam:
www.sudelfeld.de
Snow Telephone (08023) 428
Train/Cable car Info:
www.wendelsteinbahnen.de
