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March 2002

Batter's Up

Kaffee und Kuchen : The first of a two-part series on Munich's many cafes.

Café Jasmin
Steinheilstr. 20 (corner Augustenstr.)
Tel. (089) 52 51 60
Mon.–Sat. 9:30 am –7:30 pm,
Sun. 10:30am –7:30 pm
After a frenetic shopping spree in Schwabing or hours of cramming in one of the soulless buildings of the university, Café Jasmin is the perfect place to recover. Opened exactly 50 years ago and unchanged since day one, this little café is the place where time has stood still. A 1950s-style sign outside may give the unsuspecting visitor a hint of what is to come, but once inside the atmosphere is pure Doris Day. Low tables and deep, plushy seating in soft green are illuminated by matt gold chandeliers and flanked by a huge mural of the Eremitage in Bayreuth. But, best of all, is the bar, the outside of which is covered in padded white plastic fabric and studded with gold buttons. The green glow you will see comes from the genuine Faema coffee machine (for aficionados it is a 2 Group Machine from the 1970s). Much in keeping with the subdued, slightly reticent ambience of the place are the owners Frau Bunjes and her son and daughter. Mrs. B. has been standing behind the counter, serving pretty much the same fare, since the Café Jasmin opened in 1952. You can come for breakfast at 9:30, when the place opens, and get a pot of coffee, tea or hot chocolate, two rolls, butter, honey or jam and a small glass of orange juice for € 5.50. Later in the day, a selection of light savory dishes ranging from a Strammer Max (toast with a slice of cooked ham, a fried egg and melted cheese piled on top) to a more substantial chicken fricassee with rice (€ 7.30) is offered. In the afternoon, choose from a good selection of cakes to accompany your steaming cup of coffee. Try the cheesecake, covered apple cake, Prinzregententorte (apparently the favorite cake of the Münchner , this is a layer cake with a bitter chocolate cream filling) or Sachertorte—each slice costs € 2.30. Though Café Jasmin serves good, basic food and drink, it seems refreshments are not the main event. This is a place to come for quiet contemplation, observe the university professor at the next table tucking into his Kaffee und Kuchen or the students excitedly discussing exam results and soak in the atmosphere of days gone by. Drop in, before the last remaining green bulb on the Faema gives out!
FOOD 7, SERVICE 9, ATMOSPHERE 10

Café Ruffini
Orffstr. 22–24 (corner Ruffinistr.)
Tel. (089) 16 11 60
Open: Tues.–Sat. 10 am–12 am,
Sun. 10 am–6 pm, closed Monday
Café Ruffini is also a place with tradition, but that is where the similarity ends. Established in 1978 as a cooperative (there are 27 “bosses” at Ruffini), the café and adjacent shop are only part of what this place has to offer: there is a bakery, offering both wholesale and retail service, an Italian delicatessen and wine shop, again, both wholesale and retail, a recently-established buffet service and a program of cultural events. However, it is the café that most locals know and love. Ruffini’s interior is rather bare—though in an attractive, minimalist 1930s way—and many of the customers seem to be of the arty/alternative variety. Don’t let that put you off. The café’s food and wine, some of which are organic, are so good that it would be a shame to miss out for the sake of a little prejudice. Breakfast is definitely a highlight at this friendly co-op. If you go on the weekend, try to get there for the opening, 10 am, as it gets crowded very quickly. Ruffini’s long breakfast menu includes breakfast number one: cappuccino, hot chocolate, milk or barley coffee plus a croissant, butter and honey or jam (€ 4.90) and breakfast number three: a small platter of cheese and sausage and two baguettes (€ 7.40) with your choice of the aforementioned hot beverages. Alternatively, you can put together your own meal: a basket with three small baguettes, two slices of whole-wheat bread and one croissant (€ 2.80), and a cheese platter with a selection of cheeses (€ 4.40). If you go for lunch, remember that the main menu changes daily, always includes one or two vegetarian dishes and is written on a blackboard near the door. Although Ruffini’s dishes are international, there is a definite Italian slant. Previous specials have included: cream of cauliflower soup with broccoli and almonds (€ 4.10), couscous with eggplant, zucchini, carrots and coriander yogurt (€ 9.10) and spaghetti with cheese, fresh herbs, and dried and cherry tomatoes (€ 8.10). But there is more. Like the proverbial “cherry on top,” Ruffini’s exquisite cake selection has customers lined up around the block all day Sunday. Almond and cherry tarts, lemon cheesecake, whole-wheat, pudding-filled, whipped cream slathered layer cake and black-as-night dark chocolate Sachertorte are but a few of the reasons the neighbors are happy to wait.
FOOD 8, SERVICE 10, ATMOSPHERE 8