Making tracks to tranquil Tegernsee.
The loveliest lake in Bavaria, so the saying goes, is the Tegernsee. It seems word’s got around that you need walk only 50 m from the monastery pub to the lakeside—the reason, no doubt, why the likes of Emperor Otto II, Czar Alexander I, Barbarossa and Felix Mendelssohn all kept coming back here on holiday. So attached to the region were other famous people that they requested burial here. Bavarian poet Ludwig Thoma, the Norwegian caricaturist Olaf Gulbransson, opera singer Leo Slezak and Germany’s ex-chancellor Ludwig Erhard, “father of the market economy,” all found their last resting place near the lake. So what—apart from a brew with a view—makes this corner of Upper Bavaria, just 50 km due south of Munich, so popular?Prussian historian Heinrich von Treitschke once remarked, “the whole of Bavaria—the Church, the monarchy and the brewery—is assembled under one roof in Tegernsee.” This semi-sanctimonious alliance ostensibly prompted King Maximilian I Joseph of Bavaria to select the Tegernsee in 1803 as a domicile for the royal family’s summer holidays. Yet the monarch had little idea of the fate he was bestowing on this erstwhile tranquil valley, shaped during the Ice Age over 12,000 years ago. Falling in love with the area, his numerous guests—aristocrats, painters, writers and poets—decided to stay, building houses around the lake and opening the floodgates for an unprecedented influx of outsiders. Today the local telephone book reads like a “Who’s Who” of well-to-do Münchner —the region is scattered with the holiday homes of some of the biggest names in politics, the media and the economy.
An hour’s ride out of Munich and Tegernsee first comes into view over the brow of the hill at Gmund. This small town, founded by monks in AD 105, is a true bottleneck in summer and winter as all south-bound traffic has to pass through it to reach the lake. Known as the “Gateway to the Tegernsee,” Gmund was the home of Max Obermayr, a farmer whose cows were the first generation of the Bavarian “Alpenfleck.” Obermayr crossed his own cattle with a Swiss herd to produce a race yielding more milk and better meat. His farm produce proved so popular that even Russian Czar Nicholas I was a regular customer. The traditional Upper Bavarian town also offers great views of the Wallberg, at 1,722 m the highest mountain in the area, and further beyond over the Mangfall mountain range. This is where the road forks—skiers and hikers generally follow the east bank to the small towns of Tegernsee and Rottach-Egern while spa visitors head in the other direction to Bad Wiessee. Together with Kreuth, these five neighboring communities make up the “Tal,” or valley, of the Tegernsee—each with its own charm and character.
Affectionately known by locals as “Schloss,” or palace, Tegernsee’s most famous landmark originated as a monastery, built in 719, by Benedictine monks. After the remains of St. Quirinus were translated from Rome to the Kloster in 804, Tegernsee was regarded as the most significant monastery in southern Germany. By 900, the monastery’s property engulfed half of central Europe and Tegernsee had become a religious, scientific, social and economic center. The monastery library was so well stocked, for example, that for a while it even outshone the collections of the Medici and the Vatican.
Some thousand years later, however, owing to the secularization (instigated by Maximilian I Joseph), over half these buildings were destroyed at one fell swoop. Ironically, the very same ruler saved the remainder of the four-wing complex by converting it into his summer residence. Romantically nestled alongside the sunny, wind-sheltered east bank of the lake, this historic germ cell of the Tegernsee valley is now home to a grammar school, a local history museum and a brewery—the Herzogliches Bräustüberl. Whether you plan to hike or drive around the lake, this is the place to stop for a beer—brewed in Tegernsee since 1864. Sit round one of the large communal tables under the historic vaults and enjoy a Weisswurst washed down with a Tegernseer Spezial, a barley-based beer famed for its mild, malty taste. Traditionally the white sausage is eaten before midday, but, at the Bräustüberl, this herb-flavored treat tastes good whatever time of day you order—and is best with either a Brezen or Kartoffelsalat.
Don’t leave here without visiting St. Quirinus next door (preferably before visiting the hostelry!). This Baroque church, with frescoes by Johann Georg Asam, is virtually all that remains of the Benedictine abbey. The building survived secularization thanks to it being declared a parish church—one nearby was sacrificed instead. The result is a building that was added to and altered over the course of 1,100 years—Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles all blend together in one edifice. As the frescoes and furnishings are being restored, the church is currently covered by scaffolding.
The promenade, directly in front of the Bräustüberl, is a real sun-trap and a wonderful spot for strolling and observing the sunrays dance across the water. It’s also the place to hop onto a ferry or hire a boat. Thanks to a special ring-type sewerage system, installed in the early 1960s, the Tegernsee boasts some of the purest water in the whole of Bavaria—so don’t worry if you accidentally take a gulp. A great bathing spot is Point, a small peninsula a short way down the road to Rottach-Egern. The lake is normally warm enough to swim in between late May and September.
If you’re planning to visit the area in early spring and are keen on walking, it pays to check first at the Tourist Information Center as to which paths are safe, as some may still be covered in snow or ice. One of the most popular short walks is up to the Grosser Paraplui, which, at 100 m, offers superb views over the lake. The Höhenweg from Tegernsee to Schwaighof passes right by the lookout. Just in front of the Grosser Paraplui, is the spot where Emperor Alexander I of Russia, Emperor Franz II of Austria and King Maximilian I of Bavaria met in 1822. Allow about 90 minutes for this lovely woodland walk with beautiful views of the lake through the trees. This is a nature trail, so don’t be surprised to find a sign around virtually every corner giving—in German—a potted history of the various trees. At the end of the Höhenweg, turn right and take the Ludwig Thoma Weg, a tree-lined path alongside a stream flowing into the lake at Rottach-Egern. This former farming and fishing village, now a fashionable resort, is packed with chic boutiques and expensive hotels.
One of the highlights in Rottach-Egern is the Carriage, Car and Sleigh Museum at the Gsotthaberhof. This former courtyard of the Tegernsee monastery is now home to an extensive exhibition charting the days up to around 1900, when horses were the essential mode of transport for people and goods. Exhibits include a variety of Goassl—Bavarian sleighs traditionally raced every January in Tegernsee—and date back as far as 1780 to the famous Landau post coach. Almost all the lovingly preserved artifacts are in mint condition.
Directly on the shore of the Egerner Bucht—this part of the lake really is more like a bay—stands the Gothic St. Laurence’s Church with its ancient cemetery. Here you can find the grave of Ludwig Thoma (1867–1921), one of Bavaria’s most popular authors. Thoma wrote many pieces of satirical “Bauerntheater” (rural folk theater), some of which are still performed in local dialect at the Ludwig Thoma Saal.
Since only a few stretches of the shore are accessible to the public, one of the best ways of exploring the 9.5-sq km lake and its breathtaking mountain backdrop is by boat. A small ferry runs every half hour at the weekends between Tegernsee, Rottach-Egern and Bad Wiessee.
Bad Wiessee, just across the water from Tegernsee, is a health spa and an ideal base for exploring the other side of the lake. The town owes its development to a Benedictine monk who, in the 15th century, discovered a golden-yellow stripe spanning the lake. News quickly spread and in no time the oily substance, believed to possess healing properties, was attracting crowds of pilgrims to the village. Drilling work some 300 years later established that the liquid was in fact premium petroleum. But Texas-on-Tegernsee wasn’t to be, for in 1909 drillers hit upon iodine-sulfur springs—the most powerful in Germany. So began the transition from a sleepy farming village into a trendy spa center for treating joint and circulatory diseases. Today the lakeside Kurzentrum with its state-of-the-art facilities—six swimming pools, saunas, steambaths and a casino—is the major money-maker in the valley. If all this doesn’t appeal, follow the lake along to the idealic villages of Altwiessee and Abwinkl, and you’ll soon find yourself back in traditional Upper Bavaria.
In winter, when a thick blanket of fog envelops the lake, it’s not unusual to find skiers, walkers and paragliders up on Wallberg mountain, wallowing in glorious sunshine. A cable car whizzes up in just 10 minutes to the 1,620-m-high summit, which offers stunning views across to the neighboring summits of Baumgarten (1,449 m), Neureuth (1,264 m) and Risserkogel (1,826 m). On a clear day, you can also see as far as Munich and beyond. While the Wallberg boasts 25 km of pistes suited to all skiing levels, the snow isn’t always ideal, given its relatively low altitude. The mountainside can also become heavily congested on the weekends—especially Sundays. Though the slightly less frequented slopes of nearby Sutten offer an alternative, it almost pays to travel another half hour down the road into Austria, where more accomplished skiers can enjoy over 45 km of pistes up to 1,780 m. What you will find at the Tegernsee though—providing there’s snow in the valley—is an excellent network of cross-country skiing tracks: almost 100 km in total.
From late spring, you can drive up the serpentine-like “Wallbergstrasse” to Moosalm (1,100 m), from where it’s a one-hour hike up to the summit, at 1,722 m. This area is particularly rich in flora and fauna—look out for snow hens, chamois and ermines as well as plants such as edelweiss, Kugelblumen and gentian. Spring is also a great time of year for hiking up to one of the many Alm huts scattered across the mountains. One of the most traditional alpine huts is found at the top of the Ankelalm, an hour’s hike up from the neighboring Schliersee. Bedded in a crater-like dip some 1,400 m above the lake, this quaint little wooden cabin displaying a simple “Brotzeit” sign offers bread, ham and cheese accompanied by Weizenbier . These provisions—stored in a hole for lack of a fridge—are heaved up the mountain every autumn before the first snowfall. The mountain hut is then normally cut off from the rest of the world until the following spring.
Back in Tegernsee, take time to wander around the picturesque back streets and soak up the typical Upper Bavarian architecture. One of the most charming buildings, found on Rosenstrasse, is the Wackersbergerhaus, a timber-framed house like no other far and wide and, understandably, a very popular photo motif. The street also has a number of delightful little curiosity shops and boutiques. On a cultural note, don’t leave Tegernsee without visiting the attractive Kurpark close to the palace. Here stands a museum dedicated to the work of Olaf Gulbransson, who lived in a monastery building above the Tegernsee from 1929 until his death in 1959. Exhibits include caricatures from the legendary satirical magazine Simplicissimus , rare oil paintings and pictures of the surrounding countryside. The museum is a branch of the Bavarian State Painting Collection in Munich. Also in the grounds of the Kurpark is Aquavital, a dome-shaped swimming and fitness complex offering a range of spa therapies. The architecture of the two buildings is rather bizarre—neither the space-center-like leisure center nor the concrete-block museum fit in with the alpine character of the town.
To find out more about the history of Tegernsee and its monastery, visit the Tegernseer Tal Museum. With some 850 exhibits in 17 rooms—including local costumes and a typical Upper Bavarian farmhouse kitchen—this is a prime showcase of the region’s history and culture, from medieval times to the present day. The museum is open to the public from June to September or to private groups by appointment.
Early spring is an ideal time of year to visit the region, if you’re looking for a peaceful mountain walk or just a relaxing break with a Milchkaffee outside one of the lake-side cafés. On April 21, look out for the annual Spring Market, a great opportunity to pick up local groceries and flowers. The arts and crafts fair on May 11 and 12 is another popular event.
With all these attractions within easy walking distance from the station, Tegernsee has to be one of the best places in Bavaria to visit by train. What’s more, the modern train, which has just gone into operation, is considerably more comfortable than its predecessor. Be sure, when leaving Munich, to climb into the right carriages as the train is split up at Holzkirchen—the other half ends up one and a half hours away at Bayrischzell! If you do choose to visit by car and find time to spare, why not take advantage of Tegernsee’s proximity to neighboring Austria or even Italy? Salzburg is just an hour away and Bolzano, in South Tyrol, a leisurely two hours down the road.
HOW TO GET THERE:
>>>By car: A8 Munich-Salzburg, exit Holzkirchen, then B318 to Gmund
>>>By TRAIN: Hourly service operates from Munich
Tourist Information:
Kuramt Tegernsee
Tel. (08022) 18 01 40
www.tegernsee.de, www.tegernseer-tal.de
www.jaegerwinkel.de (English)
Tourist Information Bad Wiessee
Tel. (08022) 860 30
www.bad-wiessee.de
