Take a break and head for Germany's largest lake.
Take some of the most fertile land in Europe, add to it a vast, emerald-colored lake, bless it with a Mediterranean-like climate and place the whole ensemble at the foot of snow-capped mountains within a three-hour drive from Munich. Welcome to Lake Constance—the only part of Germany where subtropical vegetation is set against a spectacular alpine backdrop. Sharing its 265-km shoreline with Switzerland (to the south) and Austria (to the east), the 545-sq.-km lake known in German as Bodensee is the largest lake in Germany and the second largest in Europe after Lake Geneva. This probably explains the lake’s whimsical nickname “Swabian Ocean”—Swabia being a region of Baden-Württemberg, the state flanking Bavaria to the west. Lake Constance, situated in the Dreiländereck (three-country corner) is the top address in southern Germany for water sports and offers a choice range of culinary delights, leisure activities and cultural events.One of the most enjoyable ways of exploring the lake is by bicycle. The 270-km “Bodenseeradweg” attracts some 380,000 cyclists a year, many of whom opt for the eight-day round trip. The scenic route around the lake starts and ends in Constance. With a population of 76,000, this is the largest town on Bodensee and an economic and cultural center of the region. The university town spans the narrow ridge of land between what are known as the Upper and Lower lakes, with the Rhine winding its way through the center and over the Swiss border into Schaffhausen. Originally a fishing community, the town is believed to have received its name, “Constantia,” under Roman rule. Constance achieved international acclaim between 1414 and 1418, when the Council of Constance, which sought to reunite the Christian world, prompted the election of Martin V—the only Pope ever elected on German soil.
The history of Constance is packed with big names, such as Emperor Fredrick I, better known as Barbarossa, who secured the Treaty of Constance in 1153; Napoleon III, who chose the town as his residence for three years; and Count Zeppelin, native of Constance and inventor of the “cigar-shaped flyer.” Airship enthusiasts may wish to visit a museum dedicated to the lifework of Zeppelin at nearby Friedrichshafen. Take time to stroll the picturesque alleyways of the old town with its museums, galleries and fascinating “Sea Life Center,” which is currently hosting a shark exhibition. For the best panoramic view of Constance, scale the spire of the Gothic cathedral, the town’s most striking feature.
Constance is also an ideal starting point for ferry trips. Look out for the “Weisse Flotte” boat signs, notably to Lindau, Bregenz in Austria or Meersburg just across the lake. The latter, also served by car ferry from Constance, is one of the most visited and photographed resorts on the lake. Sandwiched between lake and vineyards, medieval Meersburg is dominated by two palaces. The 11th-century Old Palace, rising high above the water and reached over a drawbridge, is the oldest structurally intact palace in Germany. Its dungeons, treasury, torture chamber, armory and chapel evoke all the magic of a bygone era.
The Baroque New Palace houses the town’s art collection and a museum of German aviation and transport history and holds regular exhibitions and concerts. Two other interesting museums are the Weinbau Museum, which examines the history of wine growing in the region, and the Zeitungsmuseum, which is devoted to the history of newspapers in Germany.
The lower part of the town, nestled along the lake, has a real Mediterranean ambience with its promenade, potted palms and planer trees. Kids will love Omas Kaufhaus, an enchanting timber-framed house full of old-fashioned tin toys and paper models of famous buildings, ships, airplanes and castles. One highlight of the curiosity shop is a water channel that passes through each room, upon which float handmade tin ships, including a model replica of the Titanic.
At the other end of the northern Bodensee shore is the island town of Lindau, nicknamed the “Happy End of Germany.” Connected to the mainland by a bridge and railway embankment, Lindau belonged to Austria until 1805/6, when, defeated by Napoleon, the town was ceded to Bavaria. Today, little Lindau bears an uncanny resemblance to Venice in the summer, when crowds descend on its narrow streets, flocking to the elegant promenade and shady beaches. Among key sights in this town are the Old Town Hall, a quaint harbor with its old and new lighthouses and the town’s symbol, the Bavarian Lion monument.
Lindau’s hinterland is the largest fruit-growing region in Germany. Name any popular type of apple eaten in this country—Elstar, Jonagold, Gala or Braeburn—and chances are they come from the Lindau area. You’ll also find strawberries on sale here weeks before they’re ripe in the rest of the country. The Farmers’ Market on Wednesdays and Saturdays is a great place for picking up fresh local produce—look out for juicy Williams and Conference pears. Bodensee wine is also a good buy; “Müller-Thurgau” and “Spätburgunder” are the current favorites. To sample some of the best local cuisine, stop in at the Restaurant Zum Sünfzen. The eatery’s menu features game, which comes from the restaurant’s own hunting grounds, cuts of prime meat from the house butchery and flavorful whitefish from Lake Constance.
Lindau also makes a great base for visiting neighboring Austria and Switzerland. The medieval town of Bregenz, just a few kilometers further around the lake, is the gateway to the “Voralberg”—a region of Austria famous for its five different geological zones. For a taste of the Alps, take the cable car or climb the 1064-m-high Pfänder Mountain. From the summit you can enjoy one of the best panoramic views of the lake or explore the Alpenwildpark, home to deer, ibex, wild boars and marmots. The Pfänder is also a good starting point for mountain bike excursions or hikes into the German Allgäu region.
For an introduction to Switzerland, catch the ferry from either Lindau or Bregenz to the harbor town of Rorschach. You’re now in the Appenzellerland, one of the most famous cheese-producing areas of the Confederation and an excellent base for exploring the undulating countryside at the foot of the 2,502-m-high Säntis Mountain, the highest in the region. To enjoy views of a landscape straight out of the Milka chocolate ads, take the mountain railway from Rorschach to the village of Heiden. Just down the road is the cultural soul of eastern Switzerland, historic St. Gall and its famous Stiftsbibliothek. Filled with fifth-century illuminated manuscripts, the former Benedictine abbey library is one of the oldest in the Western world. Regarded as one of the most beautiful Rococo interiors in Switzerland, the Stiftsbibliothek is one of two UNESCO-listed “World Cultural Heritage Sites” in the Bodensee region.
To discover the other UNESCO site, head for the monastic island of Reichenau, back on the German side of the lake. Reichenau prides itself as “the vegetable island” thanks to its mild climate and rich, fertile soil, which produces around 20,000 tons of fresh produce a year. Vegetable plantations have replaced the vineyards that, until the early 20th century, had covered most of the island. Reichenau qualified for inclusion on the UNESCO list in 2000, thanks to its three Romanesque churches. The history of this famous trio, together with the Benedictine abbey, founded in 724, are superbly documented in the Reichenau Museum.
A “must” for classical music lovers is the “Music in Churches” season, which this year celebrates the jubilee of Baroque composer Franz Anton Maichelbeck (1702–1750), who was born on the island. Another attraction is the open-air performance of Lutz Hübner’s Don Quixote (July 1–20). Reichenau boasts two public holidays celebrated nowhere else in Germany: the “Markusfest” (April 25) and the “Heilig-Blut-Fest” (May 27). If you’re on the island for Maria Himmelfahrt (Ascension Day)—don’t miss the procession following mass in the Minster.
No visitor to Lake Constance should skip the island of Mainau, world famous for its flower displays. Originally a Roman military base, this garden paradise attracts some 1.6 million visitors a year. In late March, the island bursts into bloom on a truly epic scale. While the spectrum of colors represented is almost infinite, two colors are tipped to steal the show this year—red and pink. And, with the motto “la vie en rose,” the queen of flowers has been singled out for the red-carpet treatment. A series of special art, musical and culinary events highlighting the symbol of love runs from March 22, culminating with the Inselfest from June 21 to 23.
Another highlight of this year’s flower season on Mainau is the “Ouverture en rose,” on display in the Palmenhaus. There, visitors will also find a rose show, which will feature tips on choosing flowers for the balcony, terrace and garden and a citrus fruit tree collection—something quite rare north of the Alps. The adjacent Castle Café delivers a stylish setting for coffee or an evening aperitif before heading back outside to take in the sight of millions of tulips, daffodils, hibiscus and chrysanthemums that decorate about 8,000 sqm. Those who visit in May will see one of the most beautiful rhododendron collections in southern Germany (over 200 varieties). Some 20,000 dahlias are on display in September and October.
Mainau is also famous for its unique trees, which were planted some 150 years ago by Grand Duke Frederick I of Baden, who traveled the world collecting the seeds of rare specimens. Passed on in 1930 to his grandson, the Swedish Count Lennart Bernadotte, the arboretum comprises well over 500 different types of deciduous and pine trees, including atlas, lebanon and 50-m-high mammoth trees.
To find out more about wine growing in the region, explore the island’s small vineyard. A Botanical Wine Path highlights both local vines and wild varieties from North America and Asia. If you look hard enough, you may even spot the occasional lizard crawling about the dry vineyard walls. Don’t leave Mainau without visiting the Grand Duke’s Palace (1839-46) with its elegant White Room and chapel—two fine examples of local Baroque architecture—and Germany’s largest butterfly house. Open all year round, the tropical Schmetterlinghaus is home to some 25 species from Asia, Africa, Australia and South America.
To gain insight into how the earliest inhabitants of the Bodensee lived, a stroll through the open-air museum at Unteruhlding is a must. In the early 20th century, archaeologists discovered the extraordinarily well-preserved remains of pile-supported wooden houses in the muddy depths of the lake. Some 20 such huts from the Stone and Bronze Ages have since been lovingly reconstructed and another five are due to open this June. You may even be lucky enough to bump into an “Uhldi,” a native of the huts, who will tell you about the daily life and religious practices of the prehistoric inhabitants of the area.
Excellent boat and train connections around Lake Constance make touring the region easy—most allow bikes on board, too. If you plan to tour the lake by bike, ride clockwise—the path this way runs on the lakeside of the main road, whereas cyclists going the other direction find the road between themselves and the lake. While the route is well marked, it’s helpful to have one of the many widely sold cycle maps.
One event that alone justifies the journey to Lake Constance is the International Lake Festival—this year on August 10. A packed program of cabaret, music and acrobatic entertainment, on both water and land, reaches its climax with an awe-inspiring firework display set to classical music. And it’s all free of charge!
HOW TO GET THERE:
>>>By car: A96 Munich—Lindau
>>>By TRAIN: Every two hours
Tourist Information:
Internationale Bodensee-Tourismus
Tel. (07531) 90 94 94
www.bodensee-tourismus.com
www.konstanz.de/tourismus
www.meersburg.de, www.lindau.de
www.bregenz.at, www.st.gallen.ch
www.bodensee-radweg.com
The “Bodensee Erlebniskarte” (3, 7 or 14 consecutive days at € 47, 60 and 87, respectively) offers free public transport around the lake plus admission to 170 tourist attractions.
