Swimmers will be hard pressed to find another setting like this.
“Ein Volksbad, hauptsächlich für das einfache Volk” (Public bath, mainly for the average person)—it was in this spirit that Karl Müller donated a piece of prime real estate—valued at 1.8 million Goldmarks—to the city of Munich in 1894. City organizers quickly went to work on the proposed project, a lavish swimming and bathing facility financed with the cash saved on acquiring the land. The Müller’sches Volksbad nestles beside the Isar, opposite the Deutsches Museum. Designed by renowned Munich architect Karl Hocheder, the Art Nouveau masterpiece opened in 1901.Remnants of the Volksbad’s early years are still in use: for two or three Euros, visitors may take a bath or shower in the original facilities. Though many may find bathing outside their homes somewhat strange, this was common practice a century ago, when only the priveleged owned bathtubs. Today, it is mostly older men who partake of the Volksbad’s cleansing offerings, a loyal group that has stuck with its weekly regimen of soap and warm water in Haidhausen for years.
Today’s masses, however, flock to the Müller’sches Volksbad for other reasons. After all, such stylish swimming facilities cannot be found elsewhere in Munich—or in Germany, for that matter. It is the elegant Art Nouveau (Jugendstil in the German-speaking world) interior design and décor that draws the crowds. Before swimmers head for the Volksbad’s hardwood changing cubicles, they must buy entrance tickets at a window framed by marble columns. From the changing room, swimmers may gaze out across a large gallery to the hall’s 31x13-meter swimming pool. A high stucco ceiling, Art Nouveau lamps hanging from intricate bronze fittings, a Greek, water-spitting gargoyle and a clock with a zodiac design are but a few of the trappings that set the tone at this unusual aquatic center. Smaller swimming pools are found in rooms off the main hall. These do not pale in comparison to their larger cousin and even offer swimmers warmer waters in which to splash. In 1989, an archaic, and certainly sexist, rule was lifted at the Müller’sches Volksbad. Until that time, only men were allowed access to the large pool—women had to be content with the smaller ones. Today, men and women alike may enjoy every inch of this art-gallery-cum-spa.
The Volksbad’s offerings do not end there. In fact, the most beautiful room in the place is the one that houses the Roman-Irish steam bath. Under a 15-meter dome, visitors may relax in a round pool of warm water while admiring the opulent surroundings—some may even try to imagine what it felt like to be Senator Maximus soaking in the imperial tubs of ancient Rome.
After a swim, visitors may choose from one of three of the Volksbad’s saunas, the hottest of which is heated at up to 80°C. A word to the wise: always bring shower sandals. The tile floors in the sauna are ridiculously hot and will burn the soles of your feet if you are not protected. This is not so in the steam bath, where the only problem you will be confronted with is not being able to see your hand in front of your eyes—the scent of essential oils and their therapeutic effects on your skin will make up for the temporary blindness! Some may, however, take issue with another “little problem” at the Müller’sches Volksbad steam baths and saunas. As the Germans whimsically say, these facilities are “textile free”—meaning that visitors to these rooms are stark naked. You may wish to wrap a towel around yourself, but that won’t save you the view of other nudists. A tip for the weary: If you feel your attention to the wonderful architecture here would be distracted by naked bodies you should probably rethink a visit to the steam baths and saunas and head for the pool, where swim suits are required.
Müller’sches Volksbad’s swimming pools are open Tuesday to Sunday from 7 am to 11 pm, Monday until 5 pm. Every Tuesday and Friday is “Women’s Day” at the steam baths. A bitter pill for those who hold Karl Müller to his vision—the entrance fee for all facilities is a whopping € 11.30, hardly affordable for “the average person.” That having been said, Müller would probably be delighted by the reasonable € 2.90 entrance fee for the swimming pool.
