The coolest way to get fit in winter - cross-country skiing in and around Munich
It’s minus five degrees Celsius and snow is falling lightly, but steadily in the pine forest. The trees are decked in thick, white blankets and the landscape seems luminous in the gathering dusk. All sounds are muffled and I feel as if I’ve been transported into another world.My breath turns into clouds of vapor in the cold air and the silence is broken only by the gentle, rhythmic swish of our skis. “We’ll be back at the hotel in a kilometer or two. Keep going. You’re doing just fine,” says John, the ski instructor, looking round with an encouraging smile. I nod my head, too weary to talk. After two days’ practice, I’ve tackled my first ambitious cross-country ski trip and can now appreciate why the sport is called the “world’s best aerobic workout.” Although the trip has been enjoyable, my body is feeling the burn; my arms are aching and there are rivulets of sweat running down the inside of my ski suit. Visions of a steaming bath and a glass of wine at the hotel are all that keep me moving.
Cross-country skiing originated in Scandinavia, along with the biathlon (cross-country skiing and marksmanship), ski jumping, ski orienteering and telemark—a downhill technique performed with free-heel equipment. Cross-country skiing is said to have been invented about 4,000 years ago and used to be the sole method of transportation among snow and ice-bound Scandinavians. The primary difference between cross-country and alpine skiing is that the cross-country skier is attached to the ski only by the toe of the boot. This leaves the heel “free” so that a skier can climb, descend and traverse terrain, making the sport a truly cross-country activity. Today, it is possible to cross-country ski on every continent—including Africa and Australia—and a third of all Winter Olympic medals are awarded to practitioners of this and other Nordic sports.
There are two distinct styles of cross-country skiing—classic and skating. Classic cross-country skiing is the traditional style, whereby arms and legs move parallel in the direction of travel and with the same, synchronized rhythm as walking. Classic skiing involves kicking and gliding. Skating is the newer method and uses a lateral push with the legs to propel the skier forward. The arms work together with the legs to aid the forward push. The resulting V-style glide and edge motion resembles ice-skating or roller-blading. Skating is the sport of choice for “speed freaks,” who can reach up to 20 mph (35 kmh) on the flat. Skaters requires machine-groomed trails, whereas classic skiing is favored by “free spirits” who, depending on their equipment, may forsake the groomed tracks for touring (skied-in) trails. A special breed of cross-country skis, known as backcountry skis, are the type to select when you want to get away from it all and head to places where snow remains untouched. The disadvantages are obstacles such as rocks, fields and trees, as well as the danger of avalanches. Varying snow quality can also be a problem.
Although considered a minor winter sport in Germany, cross-country has considerable advantages over alpine skiing and snowboarding: there are no parking problems, no expensive lift fees nor any long lines of impatient skiers jockeying for position. There’s just you, your equipment, a few chosen companions and, it is hoped, an expanse of tranquil countryside ahead. And, when snow is plentiful, you don’t even need to travel far. Munich offers a number of locations where you can practice the sport. Altogether, there are 11 cross-country trails (Loipen) in the city, making a combined distance of more than 50 kilometers. The length of trails varies considerably, from 600 meters at the Golfplatz Thalkirchen to the 12 kilometers at Isarauen Süd, a trail that runs south along the Isar from the Reichenbachbrücke. The Munich trails offer variety and challenge for every level of cross-country skier.
One of the most varied and accessible trails is in the English Garden. Starting at Hirschau near Osterwaldstrasse, it runs north alongside the Isar for approximately 4 kilometers before crossing the city boundary and looping back through the flat, wooded fields of the English Garden to the starting point. Cross-country skiing, or CX as it is sometimes called, is widely recognized as one of the healthiest sports around. The motions involved are non-jarring and exercise every important muscle group, thus helping to burn fat and work the cardiovascular system. An ambitious beginner who tackles the English Garden trail will have had a thorough workout by the time he returns, tired and with sore muscles, to his car.
Other trails in Munich include the Olympia Regattaanlage (5 kilometers), trails in the Ost and West Parks and the Fasaneriesee (2 kilometers each). The 10-kilometer Perlacher Forst trail runs through the heavily wooded forest south of Munich, an area still inhabited by wild boar. Though you would be lucky to see the tracks of a boar on the trail, plenty of other animals leave their footprints in the early-morning snow and every once in a while skiers will come across deer foraging for food.
Munich also offers trails at the Sendlinger Wald (3 kilometers), and the Pasinger Stadtpark (2 kilometers). The trail Am Nymphenburg Park (2 kilometers) wends its way through and around the grounds of Nymphenburg Palace, the former summer residence of the Wittelsbachs, which involves looping over one of the tree-lined canals.
All 11 Munich trails are funded by the Munich City Council. A map of the trails can be downloaded at www.muenchen.de/mhb/langlauf.pdf and snow conditions can be checked by calling (089) 233 604 14. Unfortunately for cross-country skiers, budgetary cutbacks within the Munich City Council mean that service on the city trails will be reduced this year. Michael Brunner from the City Council says the trails will be maintained, but the Council will have only one machine available with which to groom all the trails. “In the past we have also used two outside contractors, but this won’t be possible this year. The result is that, while we will maintain all trails, they will not all be prepared on the first day and further grooming will be only sporadic.”
The region surrounding Munich, particularly the foothills of the Alps, also offers ideal cross-country skiing opportunities, although fanatics tend to head to such destinations as Innsbruck or Leutasch in Tyrol. Set in a tranquil winter landscape of Tyrolean farmhouses and dense forests, the Leutasch Valley offers 180 kilometers of ski trails suitable for all levels of ability, including the challenging 25-kilometer Seefeld Olympialoipe. The Leutasch Valley is unique because it is almost entirely devoted to ski touring, ensuring a peaceful, rural environment free of the bawdy après-ski scenes found elsewhere in Austria.
Closer to Munich, two popular areas are Kreuth, near Tegernsee, and Jachenau, located in a secluded valley near Lenggries. Bayrischzell, near the Wendelstein massif on the Austrian border, is another well-frequented family destination. Kreuth provides two machine-prepared, parallel tracks running from Ringsee along the Tegernsee to the Glashütte. In all, this amounts to 38 kilometers of tracks suited for both classic and skating cross-country skiing in spectacular little alpine valleys. Floodlights illuminate two kilometers of the trail in the center of Kreuth.
Skis and ski lessons are available from Franz and Hildegard Sennhofer, who have been running the Skischule Kreuth, Tel. (08029) 593, for more than 15 years. The business opens after Christmas and, according to Hildegard Sennhofer, the basics of classic can be mastered with a few hours’ practice, though skating requires more application. “An hour or two of private lessons are enough for most people to master the basic technique,” she said. “We also offer three-day group courses (two hours a day), but it’s quicker to learn one on one.” Private lessons at the Skischule Kreuth cost € 25 an hour. The three-day course costs € 55.
Kreuth means “In the corner,” a name given to the town by Tegernsee monks who built a church there in 1184. King Max I Joseph of Bavaria later made the district a popular tourist destination when he established his summer residence there and purchased the baths at a nearby sulphur spring. Franz Joseph, Emperor of Austria, and Tsar Alexander I of Russia were amongst the visitors to the Wildbad Kreuth.
The Kreuth cross-country trail, which follows the Weissach River, passes the Wildbad as it turns into the Klamm Valley toward the Glashütte. Unfortunately, these famous baths are no longer open to the public and, instead, are used as a convention center by the Hanns-Seidel-Stiftung. Still, the imposing spa buildings erected against the backdrop of the Gernbergkopf Mountain can be glimpsed as you shuffle by.
Lenggries, which lies in the Isar Valley, between Bad Tölz and the Austrian border, is better known for its downhill skiing, for it is the hometown of Olympic gold medallist Hilde Gerg and two-time Giant Slalom World Champion Martina Ertl. Still the region caters to cross-country skiers with four trails, ranging from 7 to 22 kilometers in length, as well as 2 kilometers of floodlit track specially prepared for skating. All trails can be used well into April. Three ski schools operating in the area provide cross-country (Langlauf) lessons. These include the Skischule Lenggries (www.skischule-lenggries.de), which offers cross-country and telemark ski courses from € 35 per person per day up to € 100 for a week-long course. Equipment (skis, poles and boots) can be rented for € 12 per day for classic skis and €14 for skating.
One of the longest trails in the region winds through the secluded Jachenau Valley on the south side of the sheer Benediktenwand. The name derives from a group of Benedictine monks who settled in the valley in 1291 and St. Nikolaus Church, which stands on top of the Kirchberg, dates from this period. Cross-country skiers have the church constantly in view as they make their way through the valley on the 32-kilometer, but not technically difficult, trail back to Lenggries.
With trails ranging from easy to moderately difficult, Bayrischzell bills itself as a family cross-country destination. Altogether there are 50 kilometers of track divided into five distinct paths. The longest is the Bayrischzell-Neuhaus trail, which covers 22 kilometers returning across the valley floor at the foot of the Wendelstein. Slightly more challenging and interesting, as they run through forests and small valleys such as the Kloaschaute, are the four trails running south to Nessel Valley. “Bayrischzell is an ideal cross country terrain for the family,” says Hans Sterr, director of the Tourist-Info Bayrischzell. “The trails are not difficult. There are only small elevations, which make it ideal for beginners and those who cross-country ski for fun.”
There are two ski schools as well as one outdoor outfitter in town that rent cross-country ski equipment. The cross-country season in Bayrischzell commences with the first serious snowfalls, but really picks up after Christmas. Then the tracks are groomed every day to ensure ideal conditions. “Because Bayrischzell is sheltered in a basin formed by the surrounding mountain ranges, it has one of the longest ski seasons in the region. This and the stunning landscape make it a favorite among day-trippers from Munich,” says Sterr. Further information on the Bayrischzell cross-country trails, as well as on ski rental and ski schools, is available at www.bayerischzell.de or (08023) 648; for information on Kreuth visit www.kreuth.de or call (08029) 18 19.
Like alpine skiing, the essential equipment of cross-country skiing (apart from suitable clothing) consists of boots, poles and skis with bindings attached. Whereas selecting alpine skis is relatively straightforward, choosing cross-country skis is more difficult because of the different styles involved. Those purchasing cross-country skis for the first time should consider whether they wish to pursue speed, adventure and exercise, or prefer to head backcountry. The answer will determine the type of skis, poles and boots to buy. For this reason, beginners are advised to rent skis until they gain an appreciation of the sport.
The best option for the beginner are “waxless” classic skis, which you simply attach to your boots before heading off. Classic skis are long and narrow. They are of similar width, but about 20 cm shorter with a rounded tip. Racing skis are lightweight and are not wide enough for off-trail use. Boots weigh very little and the poles light and stiff. Sport skis are wider and more stable. They are designed primarily for groomed trails, though can be used off trail. These are ideal for skiers interested in fitness and pleasure. Boots are warmer and heavier and provide more support, while poles are more robust. Backcountry skis are tough and wide. Their width increases stability and allows them to be used on top of untracked snow. The boots are warm and give maximum support, while the poles are designed for use on rough terrain. Telescoping poles are a great option for telemark or backcountry skiing. They can be lengthened for climbs or shortened for descents.
And once you are kitted out, all that’s left to do is hope for a snowy winter season.
HOW TO GET THERE:
>>>By car: For Kreuth take the A8 direction Salzburg,
turn off to the B318 at Holzkirchen (67 kilometers, allow 1 hour).
Take the same route for Lenggries (60 kilometers, allow 50 minutes) and for Bayrischzell take the A8 direction Salzburg,
turn off to the B472 at Irschenberg (80 kilometers,
allow 1 hour and 15 minutes)
>>>By train: There are direct connections to all three destinations: to Kreuth: 1 hour and 50 minutes, to Lenggries
1 hour and to Bayrischzell: 1 hour and 20 minutes
