The perfectly-preserved home of Bavaria’s conservationists
It is easy to overlook the building that is home to the Bavarian State Department of Historical Monuments (Bayerisches Landesamt für Denkmalpflege) from the street. The building blends in so well with its neighbors that it’s likely to be ignored by those unaware of what is behind the large, wooden door at Hofgraben 4. However, since its construction in the 1560s, Munich’s “Old Mint” (Alte Münze) has played a significant role in the city’s royal, cultural and financial past. And now, appropriately, this building, so richly interwoven with Munich’s history, has become home to Bavaria’s preservation experts. Originally accommodating the Royal Stables and the Cabinet of Curiosities (Marstall- und Kunstkammergebäude) of Duke Albert V of Bavaria, the building is generally attributed to Augsburg architect Bernhard Zwitzel, though Wilhelm Egckl, who oversaw its four-year construction (1563–67), is sometimes cited. Initially the large, trapezoidal structure was connected to other buildings in the royal compound by means of covered passageways—the Alte Hof and the Residenz were part of this complex. During Albert’s reign, his Cabinet of Curiosities was housed and displayed on the building’s second floor. Sadly the collection, which is considered Bavaria’s first museum and included early mechanical devices, such as a moving cup, has been dispersed. When Bavaria officially became a kingdom, in 1806, it was deemed necessary to have a royal mint in the capital. Therefore from 1808 to 1809 the building was converted into the Central Mint (Hauptmünzamt) and served that purpose for more than 160 years. The inscription “Moneta Regia” above the main entrance is a reminder of the building’s original function. During its years as a currency producer, it was expanded and renovated numerous times. The mint was badly damaged during World War II, requiring extensive renovation work to be undertaken in the ensuing years. The work was finally completed in 1963. In 1986 the mint was officially turned over to the state’s monument preservationists. From 1987 to 1996 extensive renovation was carried out in three phases. During those years, the Old Mint was usually covered in scaffolding and tarps. Today, visitors enjoy the results of the hard work. Those who venture inside the building are greeted by a mammoth statue known as the Broken Figure (Zebrochene Figur), created by Munich-based artist Erich Lindenberg. The disconnected sculpture is symbolic of what the monument protectors do: restore important structures and artifacts. A short walk down the stairs to the right of the statue takes one into a three-tiered courtyard that is a major work of the German Renaissance. Looking up to the second floor, one is quickly drawn to the pinkish-red marble columns and arches, which complement the building’s tile roof. Standing here visitors are transported back to another age: it is easy to imagine the sound of horse’s hooves and the swish of long skirts over the cobbles. In fact the courtyard’s surface is made of Isar River stones that were put in by hand during the building’s most recent renovation, in the mid-1990s. The building’s decorated past has caused some to ask why this landmark is not more accessible. Currently the courtyard can be visited only during the state office’s business hours: Monday to Thursday from 7:30 am to 4:15 pm and Friday from 7:30 am to 2 pm. Egon Johannes Greipl, General Curator of the state conservation office, says that it is too risky to allow 24-hour public access to the building because of the important work that goes on inside its walls. The conservation office has a number of workshops in which trained professionals restore and study priceless works of art and artifacts. One current example is a wooden pietà dating back to the mid-14th century. Another is a wooden sculpture of a guardian angel that was made in 1763. In a painstakingly slow and difficult process, restorers examine the paint layers of each sculpture to determine how to restore it to its original condition. Bavaria’s commitment to preserving its monuments dates back to 1835, when the first general inspector of monuments was appointed during King Ludwig I’s reign. In 1868 the Royal General Conservatory of Artistic Monuments and Antiquities of Bavaria (Königliches Generalkonservatorium der Kunstdenkmäler und Altertümer Bayerns) was established. It was organized into its present form in 1908 and took on its current name, Bavarian State Department of Historical Monuments, in 1917. Bavaria has 160,000 buildings or structures that are classified as monuments, and the list is growing. In 2002 the state office, which receives more than € 35 million annually, took part in 2,000 preservation projects. Most involve multiple partners with each handling a share of the restoration costs. During the last 100 years, the department has helped preserve Bavaria’s castles, monasteries and city halls as well as its farmhouses, parsonages and machines illustrating technological and industrial advancements. The Old Mint is another one of the state office’s success stories. While its limited viewing hours will keep the building from receiving more visitors—and more recognition—the four-century-old landmark remains an architectural gem that should not be missed.