Zurich-a refreshing mix of culture, commerce and nature
Zurich is not a city that is likely to be at the top of many people’s list as a weekend destination, mainly because of its (well-deserved) reputation of being prohibitively expensive. Neither is it renowned, compared with other major European cities, for its artistic and architectural treasures, or cultural vitality. When visiting Zurich for the first time, however, prepare to be surprised, because it’s a city that simultaneously confirms and contradicts popular preconceptions. On the one hand it is the monument to the pursuit of commerce, wealth and opulence that most people probably expect. In the city center, every building really is home to either a designer boutique or a merchant bank. On the other hand, Zurich both past and present belies the myths of calm neutrality and staid cultural mores that are so often associated with it, and with Switzerland in general. Not only was Zurich birthplace of the anarchic Dada movement, both Lenin and James Joyce also sojourned here—in fact, the Irish writer died in Zurich and is buried in the Fluntern cemetery on the city outskirts. And finally there were the anti-establishment riots of the 1980s, which bore witness to Zurich’s less conventional side. Zurich straddles the banks of the River Limmat, and sits at the northern tip of the Zürichsee on some of the lowest land in Switzerland (only 409 meters above sea level). However, the city is by no means flat, with cobbled streets meandering this way and that, sometimes at exhausting gradients and often no more than 50 meters from the river itself. So, while the best way to explore is undoubtedly on foot, a sturdy pair of shoes and a fair amount of energy are required to do the job thoroughly, particularly if your time is limited. And unless your bank account is a numbered Swiss one, Zurich is unlikely to be a suitable place to spend a lengthy holiday. About the only things that don’t cost improbably large sums of money here are breathing and walking. Window-shopping is also free, but it’s difficult not to feel an almost magnetic force tugging at your purse strings if you linger anywhere too long. After visiting the Bureau de Change (the euro hasn’t reached Switzerland yet), and the Tourist Information Center at the rear of the cavernous Hauptbahnhof, the most obvious and best place to start any tour of Zurich is Bahnhofstrasse. It’s the commercial hub of the city and runs the length of the Old Town on the west side of the river, from the train station to the northern shore of Zürichsee. As one of the most expensive shopping streets in Europe, and probably the world, it’s almost a parody of itself. Every designer name that you care to think of is represented, from Armani to Gucci, Cartier to Tiffany, and back again. A constant stream of bespoke-suited businessmen emerge from limousines outside the five-star hotels that line one side of the street, and ladies glide past, swathed in exotic furs and sporting flawless make-up. And, in case you didn’t know, beneath this street is a large portion of the world’s gold reserves, stacked in bars in subterranean bank vaults. If you prefer a less prosaic view of this thoroughfare, you may be interested to know that in 1918 James Joyce wrote a poem entitled “Bahnhofstrasse,” which begins “The eyes that mock me sign the way Whereto I pass at eve of day,” during one of his frequent visits to the city. A good point to stop is Paradeplatz, which can be found about two-thirds of the way down the Bahnhofstrasse, on the right-hand side. Here you can step into the famous Confiserie Sprüngli and sample their exquisite chocolates and cakes. A 100g-box of the best chocolate truffles you are ever likely to taste will set you back about SF 9 (€ 6), but it’s well worth the splurge. Sitting down for a truly memorable slice of Torte with coffee or hot chocolate will place more of a strain on your wallet. A cheaper but perfectly acceptable alternative is to go next door to the Mövenpick café, a good spot to watch the bankers stroll past on their way to making another killing, or simply to guess at the life story of your fellow diners. All of humanity is there, and friendly staff dispense wonderfully creamy cups of cappuccino. There are plenty of reasons to move on, however, as the lakeside end of Bahnhofstrasse provides relief from the almost oppressive opulence of the shopping and banking zone. From Bürkliplatz, the small square at this end of the street, it’s much easier to appreciate Zurich’s waterside location, and its proximity to the mountains that not only afford great views, but also offer the prospect of escape from the urban crush. In summer, the square is host to the Saturday Bürkliplatz Flohmarkt (flea market), where it is possible to pick up a bargain at the antique stalls—proving that not everything in Zurich costs a king’s ransom. Also in summer, boat tours of the lake ranging from 90 minutes to full-day cruises start here. Prices and timetables are available from both the Tourist Information Center in the train station, and the Lake Zurich Shipping Company office on Bürkliplatz itself. Whatever the time of year, it’s a great spot to take a breather and to begin your exploration of the cobbled Old Town. Walking back towards the train station up Fraumünsterstrasse brings you to the Fraumünster, an imposing church whose present form dates from the 13th century. Opening times vary, depending on the time of year, but you should be able to visit anytime between 10 am and 4 pm from Monday to Saturday. The entrance is on the eastern side of the building, opposite the Münster bridge, and at this end of the church you will also see some of the building’s finest treasures—five spectacular stained-glass windows, designed by the 80-year-old Marc Chagall in 1967. Equally inspired, but often overlooked in favor of Chagall’s work, is a nine-meter-high window in the north transept by Swiss artist Augusto Giacometti, cousin of the more famous Alberto Giacometti, showing eight prophets. Once you have left the church, continue on towards the train station down Schlüsselgasse and you will arrive at Zurich’s oldest church, St. Peter’s, which was first mentioned in 857. Its clock face, measuring 8.7 meters in diameter, is the largest in Europe. For a bird’s-eye view of the river and the east side of the city, continue up the hill to Lindenhof, a small park that is the site of the original Roman customs post of Turicum (the Roman precursor to modern Zurich). If you visit only one more place of interest on this side of the river, make it the supremely elegant Schweizerisches Landesmuseum (open Tues.–Sun., 10.30 am–5 pm, SF 5), directly behind the Hauptbahnhof. You could easily spend half a day or more here, as the exhibits cover Switzerland’s history, from the Roman era to the present day, in considerable detail. Of particular interest are artifacts of a key player in the Protestant Reformation in the early 16th century, Ulrich Swingli, and a perfectly reconstructed 18th-century chemist’s laboratory. The main thoroughfare on the east side of the Limmat is Niederdorfstrasse, and if you enjoy losing your way in a maze of medieval streets and finding truly unique antiques shops, it would be hard to find a better place to do it than here. Niederdorfstrasse itself is extremely seedy in places, particularly at the northern end, closest to the station. It’s well worth persevering, however, and, if you have time, exploring either side of the street is the best way to get to know this part of town. The area is too small for anyone to get lost for long, and you are likely to find a gem of a shop around almost every corner. H. Schwarzenbach, at the corner of Napfgasse and Münstergasse, for example, has been selling “colonialwaren” since 1864. The windows contain a smorgasbord of exotic pasta, chocolate, wine and baked goods that only hint at the wide selection of delectables sold inside. Almost directly opposite, you will find the “Distillerie zur Schnapsboutique,” which boasts row upon row of enormous teardrop-shaped, glass-stoppered red bottles containing brandy, vodka, whisky, rum, schnaps and even absinthe. After a couple more hours wandering, you may feel in need of some sustenance, and one good option is the Traiteur Zgraggen Metzgerei. Although it is essentially a delicatessen rather than a restaurant, it offers delicious daily specials for around SF 15 (€ 10) that you can either take away or eat on the premises if one of the two or three “standing-only” tables is free. Dominating this side of the river at Zwingliplatz is another of Zurich’s enormous churches dwarfing the rest of the city. The Grossmünster was central to Ulrich Zwingli’s Swiss-German Reformation and almost nothing of its original decoration has survived that period. Its appeal, therefore, lies in its sheer size and austerity, and the restored 12th-century cloister with its central courtyard and gargoyle-encrusted windows. From a cultural perspective, however, the highlight of a visit to Zurich is surely to be found a five-minute walk uphill from the Grossmünster, at Heimplatz. The Kunsthaus is not only Zurich’s but Switzerland’s finest art gallery. At SF 12 (€ 8) for an adult ticket that excludes special exhibitions, it’s not particularly cheap, but the sheer quality of the works on display here, the absence of crowds and the intimacy of many of the rooms make a visit worth double the entrance price. Among the artists whose work you can admire here are Canaletto, Rembrandt, Rubens, Magritte, Hockney, Warhol, Munch, Klee, Kandinsky, Gauguin, Degas, Monet, Cézanne, Dalí, Chagall, Rousseau and Toulouse-Lautrec. It is unlikely that you will ever have the chance to get as close to the works of the world’s greatest artists, and have as much time to appreciate them, as you will here. Accommodation, surprisingly, is something that you may find less expensive than you expected. One affordable, modern and comfortable option is the Hotel du Theatre, at the bottom of Niederdorfstrasse. It’s only a five-minute walk from the train station, and an off-season room, including a decent continental breakfast, can be had for under SF 150 (€ 100). Transport within the city using the ubiquitous tram system is also relatively cheap, with a Tageskarte costing around SF 10 (€ 7). Taxis are an option only if you have money to burn, or if you value the novelty of a ride in one of the Cadillacs or Chevrolets that are commonplace here. It is true to say that the city has long been and continues to be a commercial center where much revolves around making and managing money. As was uncovered in the late 1990s, the pursuit of commercial success has led to some very unsavory behavior indeed, particularly with regard to the Nazi regime. In 2003, however, one of the first things that strikes one about Zurich is its surprisingly cosmopolitan atmosphere, and the feeling that there is much to be discovered beneath the cold concrete and steel exterior of its commercial life. To discover the unique character of this “little big city” may take some time and effort, but anyone who has done so will surely agree that the rewards are great. HOW TO GET THERE: >>>BY CAR: Take the A96 to Lindau, then drive via Bregenz to Zurich on the A1 >>>BY TRAIN: ICE from Munich HBF direct to Zurich – € 101.50, 4 1/2-hour journey. Compulsory Passport check at Bregenz >>>BY PLANE: Swiss Air from Munich Airport, € 155 at weekends, € 455 Mon.–Fri., one-hour flight FURTHER INFORMATION: Tourismusverband Zurich Tourist Office Hauptbahnhof 8023 Zurich Tel. + 41 - 1 - 215 40 00 www.zurichtourism.ch Hotel du Theatre Seilergraben 69 Centralplatz, 8001 Zurich Tel. + 41 - 1- 252 60 62, Fax. + 41 -1 - 361 62 12 www.hotel-du-theater.ch Useful Websites: · www.zuerich.ch · www.zurich.ch · www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/zurich · www.explore-zurich.com · www.switzerland.isyours.com/e/guide/zurich/