March 2004
New on the Block
The second of a two-part feature on new restaurants in the city
Forsthaus Wörnbrunn
Wörnbrunn 1
Tel. (089) 641 82 80
Open Mon.–Sun. 11 am–3 pm
and 5 pm–10 pm;
Sat–Sun. 11 am–10 pm;
dinner reservations recommended
Forsthaus Wörnbrunn, located in the affluent Munich suburb of Grünwald, features a well-chosen cross section of traditional Bavarian fare with more than a passing nod to Canadian and other international cuisines. This is hardly surprising, for the proprietor, Willy Gammel, spent 31 years in Vancouver before returning to Bavaria to renovate and take over the Forsthaus. Among the classic Bavarian dishes offered is the oven-fresh roast pork (prepared twice daily) in a dark beer sauce, potato dumplings and warm cabbage salad with bacon (€ 9.90). The delectable crown of lamb with a rich demi-glace, flavored with rosemary and bay leaf and served with potato and cheese tart, will leave you licking your lips and trying inconspicuously to gnaw the bones (€ 18.50). French wines feature prominently on the wine list, which includes 53 different wines from 23 vineyards across the globe. Naturally a selection of world-class beer, from the Paulaner Brewery, is also available. Don’t forget to save room for dessert, such as the Wörnbrunner baked apple fritter with almond crust on a fruit compote with ice cream (€ 6.50). To view the menu online, visit
www.forsthauswoernbrunn.de.
Food **** Service **** Atmosphere ****
Barysphär—Food Club
Tumblingerstrasse 36
Tel. (089) 76 77 50 21
U3/U6 Poccistrasse
Open Sun.–Wed. 6 pm–1 am;
Thurs.–Sat. 6 pm–3 am;
dinner reservations recommended
Barysphär is both a restaurant and a club. “Lava” towers radiate warm light along the walls and guests are seated in black leather chairs, at an illuminated bar or on leather sofas downstairs. Larger-than-life superstar portraits on the walls reign over this “inner world” (Barysphär means middle earth) and create the setting for “towers” of grilled delicacies from the surf, turf and sky. Thomas Forkel and Wolfgang Niederdorfer spent a year designing the place and the menu, which offers an eclectic range of international cuisine. Weekly seasonal specialties and appetizers, such as soft shell crab (€ 4), baby calamari (€ 5) or sea algae salad with sesame dressing (€ 3.50), draw the professional 20s to 30s crowds. Soul Food Towers, an in-house creation, offered in three different sizes, allow you to try a little of everything. So, for example, the Little Tower includes four bowls filled with crawfish salad, chicken skewers, shrimp wrapped in bacon and spring rolls (€ 14), while the Big Tower, with nine bowls, boasts chicken wings, spring rolls, empanadas, fried mozzarella, chicken, steak and tuna on skewers and lentil salad with guacamole (€ 26). Barysphär is often booked out three to five days ahead for dinner, but you can take your chances and dine at the bar. As things heat up in the club downstairs, it might get a little smoky, but, for those of you who don’t always like it “hotter than hell,” an outdoor terrace will be opening this spring.
Food *** Service ** Atmosphere ***
Augustiner am Dom
Frauenplatz 8
Tel. (089) 291 94 50
Open Mon.–Sat. 10 am–1 am;
Sun. 11 am–11 pm
Augustiner am Dom has been highly popular among Munich’s locals and in-the-know travelers since November 2003, and it’s easy to see why: Augustiner Lager on tap from wooden kegs, Augustiner Dunkel, Hefeweissbier and Edelstoff from wooden kegs (€ 3) after 5 pm. Hey, what’s not to love? The building is brand new with three floors, each offering a view of the magnificent Frauenkirche. You should certainly try the house specialty from its own butchery—
Stockwurst, with homemade mustard, a fatter, shorter version of the well-known Munich white sausage with homemade mustard (€ 1.95 apiece). The kitchen keeps visitors happy with classic Bavarian comfort food. There are three or four daily specials alongside popular favorites, such as the
Leberkäse with potato and cucumber salad (€ 6.60), and spicy goulash soup (€ 4.80). The original Augustiner pork and kidney skewer with onion and curry (€ 6.50) is another item highly recommended by the kitchen. Although it is perhaps not the best place to take a vegetarian, as there are a few items on the menu that don’t include meat. Let your vegetarian dinner date have two portions of homemade apple strudel with vanilla sauce (€ 5.20) while you pick up the tab!
Food *** Service *** Atmosphere ***
