September 2004
Wies'n-Free Zone
Love the party, hate the crush? Try these Oktoberfest alternatives
The Oktoberfest—two weeks of hedonism, merriment and good cheer by the liter. Or so the theory goes. In reality, a trip to the Wies’n often ends up being a battle of nerves and muscle. First you’ve got to get into the tent. No matter how far you’ve traveled, or how low you tug your dirndl, those door men have heard—and seen—it all before. And if you do strike it lucky, you still have to elbow your way through the sweaty masses to find a seat before the waitresses will even consider serving you. Add to that high prices, short measures, long toilet lines, a lack of fresh air, and you may begin to wonder what this Gemütlichkeit is that everyone is singing about. All is not lost, however. Munich Found has come up with a selection of lederhosen-swinging places that promise great atmosphere, even when it seems like everyone else in the world is partying somewhere else…
The most authentic alternative to the Oktoberfest is just minutes up the road, at the Augustiner Bräustuben. Located on the site of the brewery itself, this is a Munich institution. For a start, there’s the atmosphere. Think picture-book Bavarian beer hall—long wooden tables, a bar built into a big copper vat, lederhosen-clad staff, the constant sound of clinking glasses and a colorful mix of customers all chattering away as if they’d known each other for years. In the back of the building is a stall where the brewery horses were originally kept—nowadays they can be seen only at Oktoberfest time, owing to the tightening of animal protection laws. All in all it sounds pretty touristy. But the proof of the pudding lies in the eating. And once you’ve tucked in, you’ll soon realize the Bräustuben is the genuine article. Rustic fare, of a consistently high quality, served in big portions at unbeatable prices—this is clearly aimed at locals rather than cash-happy tourists. Try the schnitzel (€ 8.60), the daily specials or go for the mixed grill with a variety of cuts of duck and pork (€ 9.60). Whatever you choose, make sure you leave room for the heavenly hot blueberry pancake served in a cast-iron pan—the perfect contrast to a cool half liter of Augustiner’s finest brew (€ 2.40 for half a liter).
Augustiner Bräustuben
Landsbergerstr. 19, Tel. (089) 50 70 47, www.augustiner-braeustuben.de
Another buzzing yet un-touristy find (particularly surprising considering its location) is the Bratwurstherzl, set back from the Viktualienmarkt. Specializing in sausages, this little gem is supplied by the famous Bratwurstglöcklein in Nuremberg. Although it does offer other specialties—the homemade
Käsespätzle take some beating—it would seem wrong to come here and not order a plate of the small, spicy sausages (six for € 5.30) served in a cast-iron heart and accompanied either with sauerkraut, freshly grated horseradish or potato salad. For liquid refreshment, the Bratwurstherz’l has a selection of very reasonably priced wines from the Nuremberg area, with 250 ml costing around € 3.70. Hacker-Pschorr beer is also on tap, at € 2.95 for half a liter. As to the atmosphere, the décor is minimalist—pale wooden tables and a red brick, arched ceiling—and the smell of beech smoke from the open grill fills the air.
Gemütlichkeit is writ large, as staff in traditional Bavarian dress provide unobtrusive and attentive service. Definitely worth a try.
Bratwurstherzl
Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 1, Tel. (089) 29 51 13, www.bratwurstherzl.de
If you’re in need of some genuine Wies’n beer and food, then head to the Wirtshaus in der Au. From October 16 to 30, this pub, on the south bank of the Isar near the Deutsches Museum, offers a special Oktoberfest menu, with Wies’n
Hendl and beer. It is also the birthplace of the Munich Knödelei and, as such, the menu features a wide variety of
Knödel dishes, from spinach and ricotta
Knödel, to
Knödel in strawberry sauce or Munich’s biggest
Knödel. If dumplings aren’t your thing, there are any number of alternatives—try the
Brotzeitbrett’l (€ 9.90), a fantastic selection of cold meats, cheeses, sausages on a chunky wooden board, perfect for sharing over a few beers. While the Wirtshaus in der Au is not cheap, with the majority of main courses costing more than € 10, food is reliably good and portions are plentiful. When it comes to the crunch, you’re probably paying for the fact that, despite maintaining the traditional look, the place is somewhat classier than your average beer hall, attracting the Haidhausen and Au smart set, albeit in their lederhosen.
Wirtshaus in der Au
Lilienstr. 51, Tel. (089) 448 14 00, www.wirtshausinderau.de
Beer and sausages aside, the Oktoberfest is also about partying. And there’s guaranteed to be plenty of action at Munich’s party central Kultfabrik, near the Ostbahnhof. Start the night with a few
Mass of Wies’n beer, and Oktoberfest food in the Marktwirtschaft bar or beer garden, before heading to the Kuhstall club for the nightly after-Wies’n party, complete with DJ, party hits from the past 30 years and—it doesn’t get any more authentic than this—crowds of merry revelers, straight from the Wies’n. Or was that precisely what you were hoping to avoid in the first place…?
Marktwirtschaft & Kuhstall
Kultfabrik, Friedenstrasse 10, Tel. (089) 45 09 08 45
www.markt-wirtschaft.net,
www.kuhstall-muenchen.de
