Spend a night in an alpine hut for a true mountain adventure
There is something intriguing about a trek through the Alps. Imagine the gales, howling through the jagged barren peaks, picture the locals posing proudly on a summit, flags and plumed hats whipping in the wind. A romantic image, maybe. But the mountains are not something to be taken lightly. Indeed, my travel companion and I had just enough experience in the Alps to appreciate how inexperienced we were. This prompted a crucial trip to the Deutscher Alpenverein (German Alpine Club) for assistance in planning our adventure. There, knowledgeable staff are on hand to advise hikers about routes, safety precautions and equipment. They also provide preparatory reading material and sell detailed hiking maps. So far, so good. Now all that remained was to hit the trail. To ease ourselves into this new pursuit lightly, we planned a two-day hike in the Karwendel range, which lies southeast of Garmisch-Partenkirchen and is accessible from the towns of Mittenwald and Krün, with an overnight stop at the Soiernhaus. Day one began with a train trip from Munich to Mittenwald (two hours), followed by a short bus ride to the village of Krün, where we found our trailhead with ease. With backpacks loaded with water, snacks, rain gear, sleep sheets and a change of clothes, we started in. The first hour took us up a service road, on which we encountered more cars than hikers—not quite what we had had in mind. Yet, our less-than-romantic start paid off when we reached the first ridge. As if from nowhere, we were suddenly face to face with a sheer mountain side, rising up from the valley floor. A path across a gently sloping meadow beckoned us further as the cow bells tinkled in the background. This was it, we had arrived in the Alps. It was mid-afternoon when, after a gentle ascent to the next ridge, we reached the weather-beaten Soiernhaus. Lit only by gray afternoon light and heated by a large wood-burning stove, the hut exuded a gloomy warmth, reminiscent of the images Ernest Hemingway evokes in his alpine-set literature. The interior was simply decorated, with coarsely woven red curtains, a crucifix in one corner, goat horns and watercolor paintings of alpine scenes. Sleeping quarters, too, were sparse, though at a cost of just € 7 for Alpenverein members and € 14 for non-members, little more can be expected. The dormitory has 64 beds, which are basic mattresses with a blanket and pillow. Hikers are required to arrive with and use their own sleep sheets. These can either be purchased at the Alpenverein, at sports stores or are easily made by sewing an old sheet into the shape of a sleeping bag. Toilet facilities were in two separate buildings, one serving as a washroom with cold running water and sinks, but no showers, the other, an outhouse, equipped with clean but basic toilets. Those who like their luxury may prefer not to spend the night here, which, considering the proximity of the Soiernhaus to Krün is not a problem—the walk there and back being easily feasible in a day. For us, though, as it is for many others, the hut was to be a starting point for our adventure deeper into the mountain range. And what it lacks in frills, it certainly makes up for in Gemütlichkeit. No sooner did the proprietor realize that this was our first night in an alpine hut, did she produce three glasses of schnapps and join us for a celebratory drink on the house—the sort of simple hospitality that make the Alps such a beloved destination. Food, too, is basic, but hearty. Self-service warm meals are available between 10 am and 8 pm and include such traditional alpine favorites as Kaiserschmarren, Würstel mit Kartoffelsalat and Rühreier mit Schinken (€ 5.50–€ 7). As to beverages, juice, coffee, tea, beer and schnapps are available. An evening in the hut is an experience not to be missed. We joined the other overnighters in the Gastraum, where stories were exchanged before guests turned in for the night, when quiet hours began at 10 pm. Not only do food and drink taste that much better after a day of mountain air, but sleep also comes easily, and is sound and deep. This may be why dormitory-style arrangements work for most hikers. If you are a light sleeper, however, consider bringing a pair of ear plugs. And if you think you may need to make a midnight trip to the outhouse, a small flashlight is invaluable. In the morning, hikers must vacate the dormitory by 8:30 am. A selection of Müsli, coffee and tea is on offer for breakfast, with prices ranging from € 2.50 to € 4. Day two started with an ascent out of the basin where the hut was located. It was not long before the view spread out beneath us: the twin jewel-green lakes, the Soiernhaus nestled among trees and 180 degrees of gray-rock mountainside. It would have been spectacular, had it not begun to rain. As we ascended, the rain turned to hail. With the Soiernhaus disappearing rapidly from view, this did cause us some concern. We had a decision to make: go back or move on. Returning would have meant an hour’s trek down to the Soiernhaus. Onward and upward—into the unknown—would mean at least three more hours before we reached the shelter of the next hut. Fortunately, we had followed the advice issued to all hikers: always check the weather report. Despite the ominous gray clouds, we knew the rain was not projected to become a thunder storm. With this little bit of information we decided to continue. After another hour of rain we were weary, and sat down for a rest along the narrow trail carved into the mountainside. To our right the mountain sloped steeply upward and to our left sharply downward. Not that we could see very much of it—our visibility was about 10 meters in each direction. Then the clouds suddenly lifted. It was as if watching a film in fast motion. Within ten seconds a sweeping view snapped into focus: the sheer face of the mountain dropped down to a narrow valley floor thousands of feet below. Above us, jagged gray peaks appeared against a sunny blue sky. We could hardly believe our eyes. Another truth experienced: weather changes quickly in the mountains. Even in the height of summer, one must be prepared for anything. Indeed, hikers we met later that day who had taken the alternative route over the peak, rather than around the mountain, were descending with snow in their hair. From that point on, it was literally all down hill. With the poor weather and the most difficult parts of the trail behind us, we began our final descent. We reached the Krinner-Kofler hut after a short but steep trail down into the valley. There we enjoyed a welcome hot lunch and a cold drink in the hut’s tiny Gastraum, whose two tables were full of wet hikers coming off the ridge. Beyond the Krinner-Kofler hut the descent became increasingly gradual, dipping slowly into the forest, which offers protection should it rain. After a while, the trail emerged, almost at the valley floor, before continuing through farmyards, down grassy slopes and through little villages on the outskirts of Mittenwald. The last hour of the hike was flat and when we finally reached the town it was late in the afternoon. We were exhausted but pleased. We’d done it! And though we lacked the energy to speak about it, we both knew we’d do it again. Helpful information